Tag: Fricot

Tastes of Europe – Recipes List

RECIPES

(by original name, country or region of origin and English translation)
page numbers refer to print edition

 

Ajoarriero SPAIN cod fish, tomato and pepper stew 376

Aloo Saag BRITAIN INDIA spinach and potato curry 308

Älplermagronen LIECHTENSTEIN macaroni, potatoes, onion rings 251

Alt-Art Zwiebelsauce SWITZERLAND old-style onion sauce 268

Amaretti ITALY SICILY macaroons 10

Amêijoas na Cataplana PORTUGAL chorizo, clam and tomato stew 377

Apfel, Rhabarber und Ingwer Streusel GERMANY apple crumble 24

Apfelstrudel AUSTRIA oblong apple pastry 25

Arancine ITALY SICILY rice balls 325

Arroz al Horno SPAIN baked rice 326

Atlantic Fish Soup WESTERN EUROPE 201

Atzem Pilaf GREECE TURKEY rice, orzo 329

Baccalà Mantecato ITALY beaten stockfish 127

Bacon and White Salad EUROPE 130

Baked Apples EUROPE 26

Baklažano Suktinukai LITHUANIA aubergine rolls 35

Balik Ekmek TURKEY fish sandwich 398

Ballokume ALBANIA corn biscuits 246

Banitsa BULGARIA cheese filo spiral 102

Barbajuan Toulon FRANCE MONACO stuffed pastries 94

Bara Brith / Barm Brack WALES IRELAND fruit bread 192

Baslerbröt SWITZERLAND basel bread 71

Basler Läckerli SWITZERLAND gingerbread 212

Basler Walnussbröt SWITZERLAND rye walnut bread 335

Bayerischer Sauerbraten GERMANY soured meat 44

Begendi TURKEY aubergine purée 36

Beignets de Pommes BELGIUM FRANCE battered apple rings 61

Bergensk Fiskesuppe NORWAY Bergen soup 202

Bergensk Frokostbuffé NORWAY Bergen buffet breakfast 309

Berliner Bulette GERMANY meatballs 252

Biga ITALY pre-ferment 418

Bigilla MALTA spicy bean pâté 226

Bircher Müesli SWITZERLAND 431

Birnbröt SWITZERLAND pear bread 276

Bitterballen NETHERLANDS meat croquettes 350-351

Bizcocho Tarta de Naranja SPAIN orange cake 273

Boerenkool Stamppot NETHERLANDS kale, potatoes, sausages 1345

Bogracsgulyas HUNGARY kettle stew 45

Bolinhos de Bacalhau PORTUGAL fish balls 128

Bookies Sandwich ENGLAND / IRELAND beef steak sandwich 46-47

Boterkoek NETHERLANDS butter cake 76

Brac de Gitano ANDORRA apricot cream roll 29

Bramborová Polévka CZECH REPUBLIC potato soup 311

Bratislavské Rožky SLOVAKIA poppy seed filled crescent 288-289

Bratwürst mit Zwiebelsauce GERMANY SWITZERLAND sausage, onion sauce 269

Brav u Mlijeku MONTENEGRO lamb in milk 215

Breslauer Klopse POLAND Breslau meatballs 352

Bricelet SWITZERLAND waffle biscuit 77

Brioche à Tête / Parisian Brioche FRANCE butter bread Paris 78

Broccoli Romani ITALY dressed broccoli 72

Brunsli SWITZERLAND almond and chocolate biscuits / brownies 121

Bruschetta Piccante ITALY chilli, green olive, sun-dried tomato on ciabatta 262

Bruschetta Polesine ITALY anchovy, garlic, olive oil, tomato on ciabatta 189

Bryndzové Halušky SLOVAKIA potato dumplings with bacon and cheese 100

Bulviniai Blynai LITHUANIA potato pancakes 312

Bulviniai Paplotliai su Brokoliais LITHUANIA potato and broccoli cakes 73

Bündner Bohne und Gerstensuppe SWITZERLAND bean and barley soup 295

Butterzöpfe SWITZERLAND Sunday bread 254

Byrek me Spinaq / Pita Zeljanica ALBANIA cheese and spinach pies 103

Calamari Ripieni in Brodo di Pesce ITALY stuffed squid in fish broth 368

Calamari Salad MEDITERRANEAN 373

Calçotada CATALONIA grilled spring onions with sauce 264

Cantuccini ITALY almond chocolate biscuits 122

Cappelletti in Brodo SAN MARINO small savoury parcels in beef broth 48

Carbonnades Flamandes BELGIUM beef and beer stew 62

Cassoulet Languedoc FRANCE country casserole 227

Castagnaccio / Baldino ITALY chestnut cake 115

Castagnole ITALY fried candied pastry 161

Caws Pobi (Welsh Rarebit) WALES Cheese on toast 63

Cebularz Lubelski POLAND onion and poppy seed topped bread 290

Cevapcici SERBIA ground beef rissoles 49

Cevizli Çöregi TURKEY walnut parcels 390

Champignonrahmsauce Fricot Art SWITZERLAND mushroom sauce Fricot style 79

Chervonyy Borsch UKRAINE red stew 313

Chicons au Gratin BELGIUM FRANCE endive in cheese sauce 117

Chicken Tikka Masala EUROPE spiced chicken in yoghurt 353-354

Ciabatta con Farina Natura ITALY slipper bread with natural flour 399-401

Cinghiale Dolceforte ITALY meat in chocolate sauce 123

Ciorbă de Miel MOLDOVA ROMANIA sour lamb and vegetable soup 216

Cocido Catalan CATALONIA chickpea, meat and vegetable casserole 228

Colcannon IRELAND kale and potato mash 136

Connemara Scones IRELAND 402

Cordon Bleu SWITZERLAND breaded veal escalope 50

Cornish Pasty ENGLAND beef and vegetables pie 51

Caws Pobi (Welsh Rarebit) WALES cheese on toast 70

Crema di Montasio ITALY cheese fondue with dumplings and cheese polenta 105

Crni Rižot CROATIA black risotto squid 369

Croque-Monsieur FRANCE SWITZERLAND toasted cheese and ham sandwich 97

Crostini di Polenta ITALY crispy polenta 246

Cuchêla ITALY pork, potatoes, vegetables 314

Cukgalas Rulete LATVIA pork roll 295

Cullen Skink SCOTLAND smoked haddock and potato soup 197

Debessmanna LATVIA cranberry mousse 66

Dinkelbrot GERMANY SWITZERLAND spelt bread 344

Dodine de Canard FRANCE boned stuffed duck 143-144-145

Duck Terrine EUROPE 145-147

East Anglian Rabbit Casserole ENGLAND 67

Éclair Paris-Brest FRANCE 80-81

Eisbein GERMANY pork knuckle 88

Erişte TURKEY strip pasta 403

Espetada Madeirense PORTUGAL garlic beef 52

Esqueixada ANDORRA CATALONIA salt cod, garlic, peppers, onion 265

Ezme Salatasi TURKEY tomato salad 378

Fagioli di Controne e Cozze con Pasta Mista di Gragnano ITALY beans, pasta 229

Farmhouse Butter EUROPE 81

Farshirovannyye Gusinoy Kasha RUSSIA stuffed goose with cream 82

Fasoulia BALKANS bean, olive oil mash 265

Fave al Guanciale ITALY MEDITERRANEAN broad beans, pork cheek 230-231

Filírovaná Veprová Panenka CZECH REPUBLIC sliced pork tenderloin 296-297

Fish and Chips BRITAIN IRELAND 203

Fiskibollur SCANDINAVIA haddock balls 198

Flamiche/Flamique BELGIUM FRANCE cheese custard pie with haddock 83

Fläskkotletter SCANDINAVIA pork chops 298

Focaccia Panino / Focaccia Farcite ITALY potato dough flatbread 404-405-406

Fofos de Bacalhau PORTUGAL salt cod puffins 129

Fondue Rustique SWITZERLAND 104

Fondue Savoyarde FRANCE 103

Frico con Patate e Cipolla ITALY fried cheese with potato and onion 105

Frikadellen Brötchen LIECHTENSTEIN meatball in bread bun 53-54

Fritto Misto Cotto ITALY SICILY mixed fried fish 370

Frtajla SLOVENIA mushroom and sausage pancake 176

Ftira tal-inova MALTA flatbread with anchovy, potatoes, tomatoes 17

Fyrstekake NORWAY prince cake 11

Galapian FRANCE MONACO candied tart 209

Gamas com Piri Piri PORTUGAL prawns and chilli 280

Gamsi Obara AUSTRIA chamois stew 182

Game Pie ENGLAND EUROPE 177-178

Garash BULGARIA sweet walnut cake 390

Gaziantep Baklava TURKEY Gaziantep filo pastry with pistachios 287

Geleneksel Eksi Hamur Ekmekleri TURKEY sourdough bread 407

Gemüse Chili SWITZERLAND vegetable chilli 379

Genoa Pesto ITALY basil paste 41

Gerookte Paling NETHERLANDS smoked eels 154

Gjel Deti me Përshesh ALBANIA turkey cock with bread mash 385

Gnocchi di Patate ITALY potato dumplings 315

Gogel Mogel BELARUS alcohol and egg sweet drink 161

Grochówka POLAND pea, sausage soup 232

Grønlangkål med Skinke DENMARK kale with ham and caramelised potatoes 137

Gulyás HUNGARY meat soup (goulash) 86

Halászlé HUNGARY freshwater fish stew 285

Halep Dolması TURKEY stuffed dried aubergines, Gaziantep style 37

Hamburger Aalsuppe GERMANY NETHERLANDS eel soup with prunes 155

Hamsi Diblesi TURKEY Black Sea anchovies with kale and rice 18 and 138

Hamsi Firinda TURKEY baked anchovy 19

Hamsi Tava TURKEY fried anchovy 20

Herrengröstl AUSTRIA ITALY Potato and veal stew 55

Hobotnica Ispod Peke CROATIA slow octopus 259

Hobz Malti MALTA crusty bread 408-409

Houmous / Humus CYPRUS GREECE TURKEY chickpea purée 233

Htapódi Stifádo CRETE octopus stew 260

Huffa ENGLAND breakfast bap 254

Hurmašice BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA syrup cakes 410

Hutzelbrot GERMANY dark fruit bread 277

Hvonn FAROE ISLANDS angelica 427

Idrijski Žlikrofi SLOVENIA stuffed potato pasta 316

Imam Baialdi / Imam Bayildi BALKANS TURKEY stuffed aubergine 38

Imqarrun il-forn MALTA macaroni, cheese and meat bake 108

Insalata di Radicchio e Finocchio ITALY chicory and fennel salad 118

Irish Stew IRELAND lamb, onion and potato stew 217

Jablková Žemlovka CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA apple pie 27

Jajik ARMENIA TURKEY yoghurt with cucumber, garlic and mint 432

Jalfrezi Chicken ENGLAND spicy chicken 354-355

Japraci BALKANS collard / rastan rolls 89

Jegulju Na Orizu MONTENEGRO eels on rice 156

Jellied Eels ENGLAND 157

Jollof WEST AFRICA spicy tomato rice with beef / lamb 328

Judd mad Gaardebounen LUXEMBOURG smoked pork with bean sauce 299-300

Kalakukko FINLAND fish pasty 336

Kalamarákia Yemistá AEGEAN MEDITERRANEAN squid stuffed with rice

Kalbsgeschnetzeltes SWITZERLAND veal and mushroom sauce 179

Kalon Prama CYPRUS semolina cake 411

Kadaif / Kadayif BALKANS honey pastries 210

Kapsalon BELGIUM NETHERLANDS Hairdresser 356

Kapusta z Jablkami POLAND apple with cabbage 90

Käseknöpfli LIECHTENSTEIN cheese noodles 345

Kataïfi GREECE walnut pastries 39

Kayısı Pestili TURKEY apricot paste 30

Kayısı Reçeli TURKEY apricot jam 30

Kipfel / Gipfel AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND pastry bread 401

Kmecki Kruh SLOVENIA farm bread 64

Kepti Varškėčiai LITHUANIA cottage cheese dumplings 107

Khleb Chorny BELARUS black bread 337-338

Kiełbasa z Jarmuż POLAND smoked sausage with kale 138

Kirschtorte AUSTRIA GERMANY SWITZERLAND cherry, chocolate tart 114

Koffiekoeken BELGIUM NETHERLANDS cakes for coffee 412

Köfte TURKEY beef and lamb meatballs 55

Korvapuustit FINLAND cinnamon buns 358

Kotósoupa Avgolémono GREECE chicken and rice in egg-lemon soup 242

Kruidnootjes NETHERLANDS spice nuts 359

Krupnik POLAND barley soup 68

Ktapódi MEDITERRANEAN grilled octopus 261

La Pôchouse Verdun-sur-le-Doubs FRANCE freshwater fish stew 286

Laugengebäck / Laugenbrötchen GERMANY SWITZERLAND lye breads 413

Lebkuchen GERMANY gingerbread 360

Leco AUSTRIA red pepper, tomato sauce / stew 283

Lemon Confits EUROPE 277

Lepinje BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA SERBIA flatbread 414

Leverpostej DENMARK liver pâté 21

Levain FRANCE pre-ferment 420

L‘estocafic FRANCE MONACO cod stew 380

Lihapullat FINLAND meatballs 56

Lussekatter SWEDEN Lucia‘s cats 346

Lyonnaise Brioche FRANCE butter bread with sausage 84

Macaroni Pastitsio GREECE macaroni, cheese and meat bake 110

Mâche et de Roquette FRANCE cornsalad and rocket with nuts 130

Makaronia tou Fournou CYPRUS macaroni, cheese and meat bake 111

Makivnyk UKRAINE poppy seed pie 291

Makowiec POLAND poppy seed cake 292

Malidjano MACEDONIA aubergine with cheese and walnuts 39

Mamaliga BALKANS polenta with curd cheese 247

Mamaligu ROMANIA polenta, bacon, curd cheese and sour cream 248

Manzoon ARMENIA sour-sweet dessert 432

Marengo Poulet FRANCE Marengo chicken 188 and 381

Marengo Viande de Veau FRANCE veal with garlic, wine, tomato sauce 188

Marmellata di Cipolla di Tropea ITALY red onion marmalade 270

Marmitako BASQUE SPAIN fish stew 317

Meatballs EUROPE various ingredients 45

Medovik RUSSIA UKRAINE layered honey cake 122

Melanzane di Foggia ITALY aubergine slices 40

Mercimek Çorbasi TURKEY lentil soup 234

Merluza a la Gallega SPAIN hake with garlic and potatoes 204

Merluza en Jamón Serrano SPAIN hake in ham 205

Mesos Vyniotinis su Kiaušiniais LITHUANIA meat-coated hard-boiled eggs 162

Minestre Asciutte SARDINIA macaroni, cheese and meat bake 110

Mish Me Jahni KOSOVO meat stew 57

Mish Qengji Të Grirë e Vezë KOSOVO minced lamb with eggs 218

Mititei ROMANIA meat rissoles 283

Moelleux au Chocolat SWITZERLAND chocolate layer cakes 124

Molho de Piri Piri PORTUGAL chilli sauce 280

Mousse au Chocolat EUROPE chocolate mousse 125

Murgues farcides amb carn de Porc ANDORRA CATALONIA morels stuffed with sausage meat 180

Nohutlu Pilav TURKEY chickpeas and rice 235

Novarese Paniscia ITALY rice with beans, salami and red wine 236

Nüsslisalat FRANCE SWITZERLAND cornsalad, fruity vinegar 131

Oeufs à la Pipérade BASQUE sweet peppers with eggs 163

Oie farci aux Marrons FRANCE goose stuffed with chestnuts 116

Oie rôtie aux Fruits FRANCE roast goose stuffed with fruit 409-141

Orecchiette ITALY pasta with anchovy, broccoli and garlic 74

Österreich Leberkäse AUSTRIA meatloaf 85

Ostropel de Rață cu Mămăligă MOLDOVA ROMANIA duck stew with polenta 149

Pa amb Tomàquet ANDORRA CATALONIA tomato on bread 381

Paella del Delta de I‘Ebre SPAIN rice with chicken, prawns, rabbit, mussels 329

Paella Mixta a la Valenciana SPAIN rice with beans, chicken and fish 372

Pakhlava EUROPE walnut pastries old and new 392-393

Palets aux Noix FRANCE hazelnut fingers 207

Paling in‘t Groen FLANDERS eels in green sauce 158

Pan-Fried Venison Fillet EUROPE 180

Panelle / L‘oro di Pisa / Calentita GIBRALTAR ITALY SICILY chickpea fritters 131

Panettone ITALY light fruit bread 193

Paprikás Csirke HUNGARY chicken paprika 284

Paratha INDIAN SUB CONTINENT stuffed flatbread 415

Pasta di Puttanesca ITALY whore of a pasta 281

Patatas con Salchicas Frescas SPAIN potatoes with fresh sausages 317

Patatesli Peynirli Poğaça TURKEY potato cheese pastry 318

Patatnik BULGARIA potato, cheese and egg pie 319-320

Pâté de Canard d‘Amiens FRANCE duck pâte 150

Patlicanli Böregi TURKEY aubergine pastries 45-46

Paratha BRITAIN stuffed flatbread 219

Peras al Vino SPAIN pears in wine 278

Pečená Kachní Prsa CZECH REPUBLIC roast duck breasts 151

Peedi Salat koos Jogurti ESTONIA beetroot salad with yoghurt 432

Pelmeni RUSSIA filled dumplings 301

Pepparkakor SWEDEN honey biscuits 211-212

Pide TURKEY flatbread 414

Pierogi POLAND RUSSIA UKRAINE filled dough 321

Pita GREECE flatbread 489

Pitakia me Anthotiro, Meli kai Feta GREECE honey and cheese rolls 213

Pizza ITALY basil, mozzarella and tomato on flatbread 382

Plăcinte cu brânză poale-n brâu MOLDOVA ROMANIA cheese pies 112

Plov AZERBAIJAN rice with butter, egg, saffron 330

Poached Turkey Breasts EUROPE 386

Polenta di Sardinia SARDINIA 249

Poolish EUROPE pre-ferment 420

Pork Crackling ENGLAND DENMARK 302

Pörkölt HUNGARY meat stew 58

Poronkäristys FINLAND reindeer, potatoes and lingonberry sauce 65

Pork Pie ENGLAND 302

Potet Lefse NORWAY potato cake 310

Potica SLOVENIA sweet rolled cake bread 12

Poulet aux Noisettes FRANCE chicken with creamed hazelnut butter sauce 207

Prianiki RUSSIA honey biscuits 361

Psarósoupa GREECE fish soup 331

Puff Pastry EUROPE 495

Puolukkaliemi FINLAND berry cream 68

Pyshki Piterskiye RUSSIA St Petersburg ‘donuts’ 266

Qofte Elbasan ALBANIA Elbasan meatballs 219

Qofte me Oriz-Qifqi ALBANIA egg, rice balls 332

Quetschentaart LUXEMBOURG damson tart 142

Rabas SPAIN deep-fried squid rings 372

Räim Pirukad ESTONIA herring pies 339

Raised Pie ENGLAND 303

Rehrückenfilet GERMANY venison fillet 183

Ribarski Brodet CROATIA fish stew with beans 240

Rillettes de Tours FRANCE rendered pork shreds 304

Roasted Mushrooms EUROPE 179

Roberto’s Mother’s Ragu ITALY meat sauce 50

Roberto’s Mother’s Torta Riso ITALY rice cake 332

Rogan Josh ENGLAND spicy almond and lamb curry 13

Rolitos / Brajoli GIBRALTAR MALTA beef rolls 58

Rowan Jelly IRELAND SCOTLAND 69

Sachertorte AUSTRIA chocolate apricot cake 32

Saláta me Glistrída kai Maïntanó GREECE salad with purslane and parsley 428

Salo UKRAINE spicy salted garlic pork fat 305

Salpicons FRANCE diced bacon, cheese, onions, peppers, tomatoes 383

Sauerkraut GERMANY NETHERLANDS POLAND sour cabbage 91

Schwein mit Kraut GERMANY pork and cabbage 91

Scorzette Candito Limone SICILY candied lemon 243

Scotch Pie SCOTLAND lamb pie 220

Seville Orange Marmalade EUROPE 275

Shashlyk GEORGIA skewered meat 221

Shepherd’s Purse Tissane EUROPE 428

Shirin Plov AZERBAIJAN dried fruit rice 333

Shoarma NETHERLANDS BELGIUM spices dry mixture 356

Shoarma NETHERLANDS BELGIUM spices wet mixture 356

Shoarma Beef NETHERLANDS BELGIUM beef in spices 357

Shoarma Chicken NETHERLANDS BELGIUM chicken in spices 357

Shoarma Lamb NETHERLANDS BELGIUM lamb in spices 357

Shortbread SCOTLAND EUROPE Shortcake 86

Siciliana Pesce Spada ITALY fried Sicilian swordfish 241

Sienisalaatti FINLAND mushroom salad 181

Sivena Galerts LATVIA suckling pork in aspic 305

Skordalia GREECE almonds / walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, potatoes 189

Skyr ICELAND fermented cheese 112

Slavinken NETHERLANDS bacon wrapped pork rolls 364

Smoked Haddock Chowder IRELAND 228

Snert NETHERLANDS pea soup 237

Soda Farl Breakfast N. IRELAND 164

Sokak Simit TURKEY street sesame bread 423

Solodukha CAUCASUS RUSSIA malted porridge 70

Sol over Gudhjem (Smørrebrød) DENMARK smoked herring open sandwich 109

Sötost SWEDEN sweet cheese 255

Soupe à L‘oignon FRANCE onion soup 271

Soupe au Pistou FRANCE pesto soup 42

Sourdough EUROPE pre-ferment 421

Spaghetti con colatura di Alici ITALY SICILY string pasta with anchovy sauce 22

\Spas ARMENIA yoghurt soup 433

Speculaas EUROPE spice biscuits 365

Speķa Pīrāgi LATVIA bread rolls stuffed with pork crackling / bacon 256

Spelt Berry Salad IRELAND 347

Spelt Bread IRELAND 348

St. Galler Bratwürst SWITZERLAND pork-veal milk sausages 257

\Stegt Flæsk med Persillesovs DENMARK roast belly pork with parsley sauce 306

Steikt Lambalæri ICELAND roast lamb leg 222

Steikt Ýsa í Raspi ICELAND fried haddock 200

Stiffner IRELAND buttermilk and potato mash 258

Stjerneskud(smørrebrød) DENMARK shooting star open sandwich 108-109

Stollen GERMANY SWITZERLAND fruit bread 194

Sugo di Pomodoro ITALY tomato sauce 383

Sun Over Gudhjem DENMARK rye bread, smoked herrings 452

Syka Xerá me Karydia GREECE CRETE dried figs with walnuts 394

Tabrizi Kufta AZERBAIJAN meat loaf 59

Taratur MACEDONIA cucumber, garlic and yoghurt 433

Tarhana TURKEY cereal, yoghurt powder 434

Tarhana Çorbasi ARMENIA TURKEY lamb soup 435

Tarkhana Çorbasi ARMENIA soup 436

Tarta de Santiago SPAIN almond cake 14

Tavče Gravče MACEDONIA baked beans 238

Testenine z Bob in Zaseka SLOVENIA pasta with beans and garlic pork fat 239

Thalassiná Piláfi GREECE seafood pilaf 373

Tiroler Schmarrn AUSTRIA torn sweet pancake 87

Tomates à la Monégasque MONACO stuffed tomatoes 384

Tomato Paste EUROPE 384

Tokány ROMANIA paprika stew 366

Touffâye BELGIUM fricassee / fricot 322

Trinxat ANDORRA BASQUE CATALONIA bacon, cabbage and potato cakes 92

Truita de Patata i Ceba CATALONIA omelette 165

Turkey Boulders EUROPE 386

Turkija Suktinukai LITHUANIA turkey rolls 387

Vartabet TURKEY white kidney beans with tahini 233

Weinheimer Heidebrot GERMANY Weinheim rye sourdough bread 340

Welsh Lamb WALES aromatic lamb slices 224

White Mushrooms with Blue Cheese EUROPE 181

Wild Garlic Soup IRELAND 429

Wildschweinbraten mit Kruste GERMANY SWITZERLAND wild boar 184

Yaini ARMENIA AZERBAIJAN GEORGIA RUSSIA beef soup with dried apricots 33

Yaitsa Farshirovannye RUSSIA devilled eggs 167

Yogurtlu Yahni TURKEY lamb, yoghurt 511

Youvarlakia Avgolémono GREECE meatballs in egg-lemon sauce 244

Zarzuela SPAIN fish stew 374

Zeeuwse Bolussen NETHERLANDS Zealander buns 367

Zivju Kukas LATVIA fish cake 129

Zuurkool met Worst NETHERLANDS sour cabbage with sausage 94

Zuppa di Ciliegie SAN MARINO cherry soup 71

Zürcher Rösti SWITZERLAND Zurich pan-fried potatoes 323

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The Fricot Project

The Fricot Project

The quest to find the origins of Europe‘s favourite ingredients, the recipes that have evolved through generations, the traditional foods that have remained popular, their re-emergence in the kitchens of imaginary bakers and visionary chefs … the start of a new food revolution.

This is the interaction between people and place – the fields and forests, the seas, rivers and lakes, the mountain pastures, the settled estuaries, the plains and steppes, the allotments, plots, rooftop gardens, terraces.

The Fricot Project is identifying all the indigenous produce and products that make up the traditional, popular foods and the baking and cooking methods throughout Anatolia, the Caucasus and Europe.

This is the quest to find the origins of Europe‘s favourite ingredients, the recipes that have evolved through generations, the traditional foods that have remained popular, their re-emergence in the kitchens of imaginary bakers and visionary chefs … the start of a new food revolution that has roots in sustainable food security and the protection of localised employment.

This is the interaction between people and place … the fields and forests, the seas, rivers and lakes, the mountain pastures, the settled estuaries, the plains and steppes, the allotments, plots, rooftop gardens, terraces … and produce!

The Fricot Project is identifying all the indigenous produce and products that make up the traditional, popular foods and the baking and cooking methods throughout Anatolia, the Caucasus and Europe.

FricotLogo4Letterhead-Large

This is the opportunity to talk to artisanal and small-scale food producers  — bakers, cafe cooks, cattle (beef and veal), goat, pig, poultry and sheep farmers, cheese makers, chef-restaurateurs, chocolatiers, confectioners, fish processors, food educators, food innovators, freshwater, inshore and offshore fishers, grain farmers, grocers, legume farmers, patissiers, vegetable farmers and assorted people working in small-scale and family food production — to discover whether fresh and local are the true ingredients in a new world order of food that is not dominated by exports and imports.

This is the Fricot Project:-

attempting to localise the value-chain system;

assessing the bio-economic and eco-social impacts of short chains;

learning the reasons for success and failure among artisanal food businesses;

questioning the role of the state in small-scale food production, innovative marketing, promotion and selling;

questioning the benefits of EU policy and the significance of grant-aid;

understanding the necessity for educational support, co-operative systems and strategic applications (such as centralised distribution – from small-scale producer to small-scale grocer) and;

realising the benefits and implications from small-scale food activity on sustainable food security.

The Fricot Project exists to promote traditional food cultures, clever food tourism, indigenous food produce and artisanal products … to celebrate and define sustainable food security.

Legendary Dishes | Shortbread

Scotland

 

Shortbread
Shortbread made with brown sugar and semolina

Traditionally made with butter, sugar and oatmeal, shortbread can be made with rice, semolina, spelt and wheat flour or with combinations.

It is also flavoured with herbs (thyme) and spices (cumin) and decorated with flaked almonds and candied fruit.

Lemon or orange zest can also be added to the dough.

This is a modern version that produces a crispy shortbread.

 

350 g baking flour
350 g butter, cut into small pieces
150 g semolina, coarse
75 g brown sugar
75 g white sugar
1 lemon, zest, grated
3 thyme sprigs, leaves
5 g black pepper

 

Preheat oven to 150°C.

Sieve baking flour into large bowl, add butter and rub in.

Add sugar and second flour, and seasonings.

Form into a dough and press into a baking tin. Prick surface liberally with fork.

Bake for 70 minutes, until the shortbread takes on a rich brown colour.

While still warm, cut into desired shapes.


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Euro Snacks | Manchester

MeatandPotatoPie
Meat and Potato Pie with Peppered Crust

 

Meat and potato pies are a traditional dish of northern England, especially the counties of Cheshire, Lancashire and Yorkshire, where meat and potatoes have always formed the basis for a hearty meal. Packed in a pastry the meal becomes portable.

These pies have never been a home-baked product, largely because they have always been ubiquitous in the cafe and chip shop culture of north-west England, Holland’s version being the most popular of the mass-produced brands.

Made with beef, potato and yeast extract in a shortcrust pastry, Holland’s meat and potato pies are also synonymous with sporting events.

Meat and potato pies, as they are known today, began as a workhouse product, are probably related to Irish mutton pies, and were hardly known as a recipe in cookbooks.

Charles Elme Francatelli’s A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes, published in 1852, describes a meat pie and a potato pie.

 

Meat Pie

 

Of whatever kind, let the pieces of meat be first fried brown over a quick fire, in a little fat or butter, and seasoned with pepper and salt; put these into a pie-dish with chopped onions, a few slices of half-cooked potatoes, and enough water just to cover the meat. Cover the dish with a crust, made with two pounds of flour and six ounces of butter, or lard, or fat dripping, and just enough water to knead it into a stiff kind of dough or paste, and then bake it for about an hour and a-half.

 

Potato Pie

 

Slice up four onions and boil them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a quart of water, and pepper and salt, for five minutes; then add four pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices; stew the whole until the potatoes are done, and pour them into a pie-dish; cover this with stiff mashed potatoes, and bake the pie of a light brown colour.

 

Our version has an Irish stew filling and a peppered crust.

 

Meat and Potato Pie with Peppered Hot Pastry Crust

 

Filling
1 kg potatoes, peeled, quartered
750 g lamb, cut into 2 cubes
750 g onions, chopped
30 g black pepper, freshly ground
25 g salt
Water

This is essentially an Irish stew recipe. The quantity is much more than you will need for the filling. Arrange lamb in the bottom of a large pot, turn heat to medium and allow fat to run out of the bones. Stack potatoes on top of the lamb, then the onions and seasoning, more pepper than salt. Fill the pot with water, three-quarters up to the level of the onions, bring to the boil. Cover, turn heat to lowest setting and cook for three hours. The result should be a thick meat and potato stew, with the onions completely melted.

Dough
450 g strong white flour
150 ml water
125 g lard
10 g pepper
10 g salt
5 g icing sugar

 

Bring the lard and water to the boil.

Sieve flour and salt into a large bowl, add pepper and sugar.

Pour the hot liquid into a well in the centre of the flour, and using a sturdy wooden spoon quickly form into a soft dough.

Divide dough into eight equal pieces (approximately 90 g each), cut again – two thirds for the base, one third for the lid.

Push the dough into the bottom and sides of small deep pie tins, diameter 8 cms.

Preheat oven to 220°C.

Pack the tins with the filling, roll the remaining dough out, place over the top of the filling, crimping the edges. Pierce a hole in the centre of the lid.

Reduce oven temperature to 180°C, bake for 90 minutes.


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Euro Snacks | Bern

PangasiusFillets
Pangasius Fillets

 

Pangasius
Fresh Pangasius

Despite the proliferation of fresh water fish in Switzerland, increasingly popular is a member of the catfish family from Vietnam’s Mekong Delta called pangasius.

There is a sense, wandering around Berne, that fish and chips have been given a Swiss makeover with this Asian speciality, which reached export sales of €20 million in Europe during 2014.

Sold in fast food outlets as deep fried battered nuggets, fillets of pangasius are also available breaded and ready to cook in supermarkets.

We are enjoying the takeaway version from a cafe at the tram stop junction on Hessestrasse.

 

Pangasius Knusperli im Backteig

400 g pangasius fillets, cut into 2 cm strips
125 g flour
100 ml white wine/beer
2 eggs, separated
30 ml canola/sunflower oil
5 g mustard powder
1 lemon, juice
Baking powder, pinch
Black pepper, pinch
Salt, pinch
Oil, for deep frying

PangasiusKnusperliCoop
Prepacked Pangasius Knusperli in the Coop supermarket

Whisk wine or beer, oil and egg yolks into the flour, mustard powder and salt for a smooth batter. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into batter.

Heat oil to 190°C in a deep pan.

Dredge pangasius pieces in the batter. Fry until golden, about three minutes.

Dress with lemon juice.

Serve with French fries.

 

Photos courtesy of Pangasius Vietnam, the Seafood exporters and producers of Vietnam and the Coop supermarket in Switzerland.


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[Fricot Editions] Tastes of Europe | Recipe List

From the Atlantic to the Caucasus
60 Ingredients | 60 Regions | 360 Recipes
The Essence of Europe’s Traditional Foods

RECIPES by original name, country and English translation

TOE-Cover 1-lowres

 

—Ajoarriero SPAIN cod fish, tomato and pepper stew

—Älpler Magronen LIECHTENSTEIN macaroni, potatoes, onion rings

—Alt-Art Zwiebelsauce SWITZERLAND old-style onion sauce 000

—Amaretti ITALY macaroons

—Amêijoas na Cataplana PORTUGAL chorizo, clam and tomato stew

—Anjovislåda SWEDEN anchovy, potato gratin

—Apfel, Rhabarber und Ingwer Streusel GERMANY apple, rhubarb and ginger crumble

—Apfelstrudel AUSTRIA oblong apple pastry

—Arancine ITALY SICILY breadcrumb coated rice balls stuffed with ground meat, peas or cheese, ham, mushroom

—Arroz al Horno SPAIN baked rice

—Atzem Pilaf GREECE TURKEY rice, orzo

—Baccalà Mantecato ITALY beaten stockfish

—Bacon and White Salad EUROPE

—Baked Apples EUROPE

—Baklažano Suktinukai LITHUANIA aubergine rolls

—Ballokume ALBANIA corn biscuits

—Banitsa BULGARIA cheese filo spiral

—Baquette FRANCE long loaf

—Bara Brith / Barm Brack WALES IRELAND fruit bread

—Basler Walnussbrot SWITZERLAND rye walnut bread

—Bavareisa ITALY chocolate coffee cream drink

—Bayerischer Sauerbraten GERMANY soured meat

—Begendi TURKEY aubergine puree

—Beignets de Pommes BELGIUM FRANCE battered apple rings

—Bergensk Fiskesuppe NORWAY Bergen soup

—Bergensk Frokostbuffé NORWAY Bergen buffet breakfast

—Berliner Bulette GERMANY meatballs

—Biga ITALY pre-ferment

—Bigilla MALTA spicy bean pâté

—Bircher Müesli SWITZERLAND Bircher berry, flake, fruit, nut and seed breakfast

—Birnbrot SWITZERLAND pear bread

—Bitterballen NETHERLANDS meat croquettes

—Bizcocho Tarta de Naranja SPAIN orange cake

—Boerenkool Stamppot NETHERLANDS mashed potatoes, onions, kale with smoked sausages

—Bogracsgulyas HUNGARY kettle stew

—Bolinhos de Bacalhau PORTUGAL fish balls

—Bookies Sandwich ENGLAND / IRELAND beef steak sandwich

—Boterkoek NETHERLANDS butter cake

—Bozner Herrengröstl AUSTRIA ITALY potato and veal stew

—Brac de Gitano ANDORRA apricot cream roll

—Bramborová Polévka CZECH REPUBLIC potato soup

—Bratislavské Rožky SLOVAKIA poppy seed filled crescent

—Bratwürst mit Zwiebelsauce GERMANY SWITZERLAND sausage with onion sauce

—Brav u Mlijeku MONTENEGRO lamb in milk

—Breslauer Klopse POLAND Breslau meatballs

—Bricelet SWITZERLAND waffle biscuit

—Brioche à Tête / Parisian Brioche FRANCE butter bread Paris

—Broccoli Romani  ITALY dressed broccoli

—Brunsli SWITZERLAND almond and chocolate biscuits / brownies

—Bruschetta Piccante ITALY chilli, green olive, sun-dried tomato on ciabatta

—Bruschetta Polesine ITALY anchovy, garlic, olive oil, tomato on ciabatta

—Bryndzové Halušky SLOVAKIA potato dumplings with bacon and cheese

—Bulviniai Blynai LITHUANIA potato pancakes

—Bulviniai Paplotliai su Brokoliais LITHUANIA potato and broccoli cakes

—Bündner Bohne und Gerstensuppe SWITZERLAND Grabünden bean and barley soup

—Butterzöpfe SWITZERLAND Sunday bread

—Byrek me Spinaq / Pita Zeljanica ALBANIA BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA cheese and spinach pies

—Calamari Ripieni in Brodo di Pesce ITALY stuffed squid in fish broth

—Calamari Salad MEDITERRANEAN

—Calçotada CATALONIA grilled spring onions with sauce

—Calentita / La Farinata de Ceci GIBRALTAR ITALY hot chickpea squares

—Cantuccini ITALY almond chocolate biscuits

—Cappelletti in Brodo SAN MARINO small savoury parcels in beef broth

—Carbonnades Flamandes / Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze BELGIUM FRANCE LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS beef and beer stew

—Cassoulet Languedoc FRANCE country casserole

—Castagnaccio / Baldino ITALY chestnut cake

—Castagnole ITALY fried candied pastry

—Cebularz Lubelski POLAND onion and poppy seed topped bread

—Cevapcici SERBIA ground beef rissoles

—Cevizli Çöregi TURKEY walnut parcels

—Champignonrahmsauce Fricot Art SWITZERLAND mushroom sauce Fricot style

—Chervonyy Borsch UKRAINE red stew

—Chicken Liver and Mushroom Pâté EUROPE

—Chicons au Gratin BELGIUM FRANCE endive in cheese sauce

—Chicken Tikka Masala EUROPE spiced chicken in yoghurt

—Ciabatta con Farina Natura ITALY slipper bread with natural flour

—Cinghiale Dolceforte ITALY meat in chocolate sauce

—Ciorbă de Miel MOLDOVA ROMANIA sour lamb and vegetable soup

—Cocido Catalan CATALONIA chickpea, meat and vegetable casserole

—Colcannon IRELAND kale and potato mash

—Connemara Scones IRELAND

—Cordon Bleu SWITZERLAND breaded veal escalope

—Cornish Pasty ENGLAND beef and vegetables pie

—Caws Pobi (Welsh Rarebit) WALES cheese on toast

—Crema di Montasio con Gnocchi di Zucca ITALY cheese fondue with pumpkin dumplings and cheese polenta

—Crni Rižot CROATIA black risotto with squid

—Croque-Monsieur FRANCE SWITZERLAND toasted cheese and ham sandwich

—Crostini di Polenta ITALY crispy polenta

—Crumpets ENGLAND raised bread rounds

—Cuchêla ITALY bacon, pork ribs, potatoes, salami / sausages, seasonal vegetables

—Cukgalas Rulete LATVIA pork roll

—Cullen Skink SCOTLAND smoked haddock and potato soup

—Dalmatian Pašticada CROATIA sweet pot beef

—Debessmanna LATVIA cranberry mousse

—Dinkelbrot GERMANY SWITZERLAND spelt bread

—Dodine de Canard FRANCE boned stuffed duck

—Duck Terrine EUROPE

—East Anglian Rabbit Casserole ENGLAND

—Éclair Paris-Brest FRANCE

—Eisbein GERMANY pork knuckle

—Eriste TURKEY strip pasta

—Espetada Madeirense PORTUGAL garlic beef

—Esqueixada ANDORRA CATALONIA black olives, salt cod, garlic, peppers, onion, tomato, jerez vinegar

—Ezme Salatasi TURKEY tomato salad

—Fagioli di Controne e Cozze con Pasta Mista di Gragnano ITALY Controne beans and mussels with Gragnano pasta

—Farmhouse Butter EUROPE

—Farshirovannyye Gusinoy Kasha RUSSIA stuffed goose with cream

—Fasoulia BALKANS bean, olive oil mash

—Fave al Guanciale ITALY MEDITERRANEAN broad beans, pork cheek

—Filírovaná Veprová Panenka CZECH REPUBLIC sliced pork tenderloin

—Fish and Chips BRITAIN / IRELAND

—Fiskibollur SCANDINAVIA haddock balls

—Flamique BELGIUM FRANCE cheese custard pie with haddock

—Fläskkotletter SCANDINAVIA pork chops

—Flutes au Fromage SWITZERLAND cheese bread sticks

—Focaccia Panino / Focaccia Farcite ITALY potato dough flatbread with cheese, salami, spinach, tomato

—Fofos de Bacalhau PORTUGAL salt cod puffins

—Fondue Rustique SWITZERLAND Appenzeller, Emmental, Gruyère, Vacherin Fribourgeois

—Fondue Savoyarde FRANCE Savoy fondue

—Frico con Patate e Cipolla ITALY fried cheese with potato and onion

—Frikadellen Brötchen LIECHTENSTEIN meatball in bread bun

—Fritto Misto Cotto ITALY mixed fried fish

—Frtajla SLOVENIA mushroom and sausage pancake

—Ftira tal-inova MALTA flatbread topped with anchovy, basil, onions, potatoes and tomatoes

—Fyrstekake NORWAY prince cake

—Galapian FRANCE MONACO candied tart

—Gamas com Piri Piri PORTUGAL prawns and chilli

—Gamsi Obara AUSTRIA chamois stew

—Game Pie ENGLAND EUROPE

—Garash BULGARIA sweet walnut cake

—Gaziantep Baklava TURKEY Gaziantep filo pastry with pistachios

—Geleneksel Eksi Hamur Ekmekleri / Vakfıkebir Ekmeği TURKEY traditional sourdough bread

—Gemüse Chili SWITZERLAND vegetable chilli

—Genoa Pesto ITALY basil paste

—Gerookte Paling NETHERLANDS smoked eels

—Gjel Deti me Përshesh ALBANIA turkey cock with bread mash

—Gnocchi di Patate ITALY potato dumplings

—Gogel Mogel BELARUS alcohol and egg sweet drink

—Grochówka POLAND pea and sausage soup

—Grønlangkål med Skinke DENMARK kale with ham and caramelised potatoes

—Halászlé HUNGARY freshwater fish stew

—Halep Dolması TURKEY stuffed dried aubergines, Gaziantep style

—Hamburger Aalsuppe GERMANY NETHERLANDS Hamburg eel soup with prunes

—Hamsi Firinda TURKEY baked anchovy

—Hobotnica Ispod Peke CROATIA slow octopus

—Ħobż Malti MALTA crusty bread

—Houmous / Humus CYPRUS GREECE TURKEY chickpea purée

—Htapódi Stifádo CRETE octopus stew

—Huffa ENGLAND breakfast bap

—Hurmašice BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA syrup cakes

—Hutzelbrot GERMANY dark fruit bread

XXXX—Hvonn FAROE ISLANDS angelica

—Idrijski Žlikrofi SLOVENIA stuffed potato pasta

—Imam Baialdi / Imam Bayildi BALKANS TURKEY stuffed aubergine / eggplant

—Imqarrun il-forn MALTA macaroni, cheese and meat bake

—Insalata di Radicchio e Finocchio ITALY chicory and fennel salad

—Irish Stew IRELAND

—Jablková Žemlovka CZECH REPUBLIC / SLOVAKIA apple pie

—Jajik ARMENIA TURKEY yoghurt with cucumber, garlic and mint

—Jalfrezi Chicken ENGLAND fried spicy chicken

—Japraci BALKANS collard / rastan rolls

—Jegulju Na Orizu MONTENEGRO eels on rice

—Jellied Eels ENGLAND

—Judd mad Gaardebounen LUXEMBOURG smoked pork collar with broad bean sauce

—Kalakukko FINLAND fish pasty

—Kalamária Gemistá EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN stuffed squid

—Kalbsgeschnetzeltes au Champignonrahmsauce SWITZERLAND veal slices in creamed mushroom sauce

—Kalon Prama CYPRUS semolina cake

—Kadaif / Kadayif BALKANS honey pastries

—Kapsalon BELGIUM NETHERLANDS Hairdresser

—Kapusta z Jablkami POLAND apple with cabbage

—Käseknöpfli LIECHTENSTEIN cheese noodles

—Kataïfi GREECE walnut pastries

—Kayısı Pestili TURKEY apricot paste

—Kayısı Reçeli TURKEY apricot jam

—Kmecki Kruh SLOVENIA farm bread

—Kepti Varškėčiai LITHUANIA cottage cheese dumplings

—Khleb Chorny BELARUS black bread

—Kiełbasa z Jarmuż  POLAND smoked sausage with kale

—Kirschtorte AUSTRIA GERMANY SWITZERLAND cherry, chocolate and kirsch tart

—Koffiekoeken BELGIUM NETHERLANDS cakes for coffee

—Korvapuustit FINLAND cinnamon buns

—Kotósoupa Avgolémono GREECE chicken and rice in egg-lemon soup

—Kruidnootjes NETHERLANDS spice nuts

—Ktapódi MEDITERRANEAN grilled octopus

—La Pôchouse Verdun-sur-le-Doubs FRANCE freshwater fish stew

—Laugengebäck / Laugenbrötchen GERMANY SWITZERLAND lye breads

—Lebkuchen GERMANY gingerbread

—Leco / Leczo / Lescó / Letscho AUSTRIA CROATIA CZECH REPUBLIC GERMANY HUNGARY POLAND SLOVAKIA SLOVENIA red pepper, tomato sauce / stew

—Lefse NORWAY potato cake

—Lemon Confits EUROPE

—Lepinje BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA SERBIA flatbread

—Leverpostej DENMARK liver pâté

—Levain FRANCE pre-ferment

—L’estocafic FRANCE MONACO cod stew

—Lihapullat FINLAND meatballs

—Lountza CYPRUS pork marinated in wine and coriander seeds

—Lussekatter SWEDEN Lucia’s cats

—Lyonnaise Brioche FRANCE butter bread with sausage

—Macaroni Pastitsio GREECE macaroni, cheese and meat bake

—Mâche et de Roquette dans l’écrou Vinaigrette FRANCE cornsalad and rocket with nuts

—Makaronia tou Fournou CYPRUS macaroni, cheese and meat bake

—Makivnyk UKRAINE poppy seed pie

—Makowiec POLAND poppy seed cake

—Malidjano MACEDONIA aubergine with cheese and walnuts

—Mamaliga BALKANS polenta with curd cheese

—Mamaligu cu brânza si Smântâna ROMANIA polenta with smoked bacon, curd cheese and sour cream

—Manzoon ARMENIA sour-sweet dessert

—Marengo Poulet FRANCE Marengo chicken

—Marengo Viane de Veau FRANCE veal with garlic, wine, tomato sauce

—Marmellata di Cipolla di Tropea ITALY red onion marmalade

—Melanzane di Foggia ITALY breaded aubergine slices

—Mercimek Çorbasi TURKEY lentil soup

—Merluza a la Gallega SPAIN hake with garlic and potatoes

—Merluza en Jamón Serrano SPAIN hake in ham

—Mesos Vyniotinis su Kiaušiniais LITHUANIA meat-coated hard-boiled eggs

—Minestre Asciutte SARDINIA macaroni, cheese and meat bake

—Mititei ROMANIA meat rissoles

—Moelleux au Chocolat SWITZERLAND chocolate layer cakes

—Molho de Piri Piri PORTUGAL chilli sauce

—Mousse au Chocolat EUROPE chocolate mousse

—Murgues farcides amb carn de Porc ANDORRA CATALONIA morels stuffed with sausage meat

—Nohutlu Pilav TURKEY chickpeas and rice

—Novarese Paniscia ITALY rice with beans, salami and red wine

—Nüsslisalat mit Frucht Vinaigrette FRANCE SWITZERLAND cornsalad with fruity vinegar

—Oeufs à la Pipérade PAYS BASQUE / BASQUE COUNTRY sweet peppers with eggs

—Oie farci aux Marrons FRANCE goose stuffed with chestnuts

—Oie rôtie aux Fruits FRANCE roast goose stuffed with fruit

—Orecchiette con Broccoli e Acciughe ITALY pasta with anchovy, broccoli and garlic

—Österreich Leberkäse AUSTRIA meatloaf

—Ostropel de Rață cu Mămăligă MOLDOVA ROMANIA duck stew with polenta

—Pa amb Tomàquet ANDORRA CATALONIA tomato on bread

—Paella del Delta de I’Ebre SPAIN saffron rice with chicken, chorizo and prawns

—Paella Mixta a la Valenciana SPAIN rice with beans, chicken and fish

—Pakhlava EUROPE walnut pastries old and new

—Palets aux Noix FRANCE hazelnut fingers

—Paling in’t Groen BELGIUM eels in green sauce

—Panettone ITALY light fruit bread

—Paprikás Csirke HUNGARY chicken paprika

—Pasta di Puttanesca ITALY whore of a pasta

—Patatas con Salchicas Frescas SPAIN potatoes with fresh sausages

—Patatesli Peynirli Poğaça TURKEY potato cheese pastry

—Patatnik BULGARIA potato, cheese and egg pie

—Pâté de Canard d’Amiens FRANCE duck pâte

—Patlicanli Böregi TURKEY aubergine pastries

—Peras al Vino SPAIN pears in wine

—Pečená Kachní Prsa CZECH REPUBLIC duck breasts

—Peedi Salat koos Jogurti ESTONIA beetroot salad with yoghurt

—Pelmeni RUSSIA filled dumplings

—Pepparkakor SWEDEN honey biscuits

—Pide TURKEY flatbread

—Pierogi POLAND RUSSIA UKRAINE filled dough

—Pita GREECE flatbread

—Pitakia me Anthotiro, Meli kai Feta GREECE honey and cheese rolls

—Pizza ITALY basil, mozzarella and tomato on flatbread

—Plăcinte cu brânză poale-n brâu MOLDOVA ROMANIA cheese pies

—Plov AZERBAIJAN rice with butter, egg, saffron

—Poached Turkey Breasts EUROPE

X—Pogne FRANCE ring bread

—Polenta di Sardinia SARDINIA

—Poolish EUROPE pre-ferment

—Pork Crackling ENGLAND DENMARK

—Poronkäristys FINLAND Reindeer with Mashed Potatoes and Lingonberry Sauce

—Pork Pie ENGLAND

—Potica SLOVENIA sweet rolled cake bread

—Poulet aux Noisettes FRANCE chicken with creamed hazelnut butter sauce

—Prianiki RUSSIA honey biscuits

—Psarósoupa GREECE fish soup

—Puff Pastry EUROPE

—Puolukkaliemi FINLAND berry cream

—Qofte Elbasan ALBANIA Elbasan meatballs

—Qofte me Oriz-Qifqi ALBANIA egg, rice balls

—Quetschentaart LUXEMBOURG damson tart

—Rabas SPAIN deep-fried squid rings

—Räim Pirukad ESTONIA herring pies

—Raised Pie ENGLAND

—Rehrückenfilet GERMANY venison fillet

—Ribarski Brodet CROATIA fish stew with beans

—Rillettes de Tours FRANCE rendered pork shreds

—Rogan Josh ENGLAND spicy almond and lamb curry

—Rolitos / Brajoli GIBRALTAR MALTA beef rolls

—Rowan Jelly IRELAND SCOTLAND

—Sachertorte AUSTRIA chocolate apricot cake

—Saláta me Glistrída kai Maïntanó GREECE (CRETE) salad with purslane and parsley

—Salo UKRAINE spicy salted garlic pork fat

—Salpicons FRANCE diced bacon, cheese, onions, peppers, tomatoes on thick bread

—Sauerkraut GERMANY NETHERLANDS POLAND sour cabbage

—Schwein mit Kraut GERMANY pork and cabbage

—Scorzette Candito Limone SICILY candied lemon

—Scotch Pie SCOTLAND lamb pie

—Seville Orange Marmalade EUROPE

—Shashlyk GEORGIA skewered meat

—Shirin Plov AZERBAIJAN dried fruit rice

—Shoarma NETHERLANDS BELGIUM Dry

—Shoarma NETHERLANDS BELGIUM Wet

—Shoarma Beef NETHERLANDS BELGIUM beef in spices

—Shoarma Chicken NETHERLANDS BELGIUM chicken in spices

—Shoarma Lamb NETHERLANDS BELGIUM lamb in spices

—Shortbread SCOTLAND EUROPE Shortcake

—Sienisalaatti FINLAND mushroom salad

—Sivena Galerts LATVIA suckling pork in aspic

—Skordalia GREECE almonds / walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, potatoes

—Skyr ICELAND fermented cheese

—Slavinken NETHERLANDS bacon wrapped pork rolls

—Smoked Haddock Chowder IRELAND

—Snert NETHERLANDS pea soup

—Soda Farl Breakfast NORTHERN IRELAND

—Sokak Simit TURKEY street sesame bread

—Solodukha CAUCASUS RUSSIA malted porridge

—Sötost SWEDEN sweet cheese

—Soupe à L’oignon FRANCE onion soup

—Soupe au Pistou FRANCE pesto soup

—Sourdough EUROPE pre-ferment

—Spaghetti con colatura di Alici ITALY string pasta with anchovy sauce

—Spas ARMENIA yoghurt soup

—Speculaas EUROPE spice biscuits

—Speķa Pīrāgi LATVIA bread rolls stuffed with pork crackling / bacon

—Spelt Berry Salad IRELAND

—Spelt Bread IRELAND

—St. Galler Bratwürst SWITZERLAND pork-veal milk sausages

—Stegt Flæsk med Persillesovs DENMARK roast belly pork with parsley sauce

—Steikt Lambalæri ICELAND roast leg of lamb

—Steikt Ýsa í Raspi ICELAND fried haddock

—Stiffner IRELAND buttermilk and potato mash

—Stollen GERMANY SWITZERLAND fruit bread

—Sugo di Pomodoro ITALY tomato sauce

—Syka Xerá me Karydia GREECE CRETE dried figs with walnuts

—Tabrizi Kufta AZERBAIJAN meat loaf

—Taratur MACEDONIA cucumber, garlic and yoghurt

—Tarhana TURKEY cereal, yoghurt powder

—Tarhana Çorbasi ARMENIA TURKEY soup

—Tarta de Santiago SPAIN almond cake

—Tavče Gravče MACEDONIA baked beans

—Testenine z Bob in Zaseka SLOVENIA pasta with broad beans and garlic pork fat

—Thalassiná Piláfi GREECE seafood pilaf

—Tiroler Schmarrn AUSTRIA torn sweet pancake

—Tomates à la Monégasque MONACO stuffed tomatoes

—Tomato Paste EUROPE

—Tokány ROMANIA paprika stew

—Touffâye BELGIUM fricassee / fricot

—Trinxat ANDORRA BASQUE CATALONIA bacon, cabbage and potato cakes

—Truita de Patata i Ceba CATALONIA omelette

—Turkey Boulders EUROPE

—Turkija Suktinukai LITHUANIA turkey rolls

—Tyroler Schmarrn AUSTRIA torn sweet pancake

—Yaini ARMENIA AZERBAIJAN GEORGIA RUSSIA beef soup with dried apricots

—Yaitsa Farshirovannye RUSSIA devilled eggs

—Weinheimer Heidebrot GERMANY Weinheim rye sourdough bread

—Welsh Lamb WALES aromatic lamb slices

—Wheaten Farls NORTHERN IRELAND

—White Mushrooms with Blue Cheese EUROPE

—Wild Garlic Soup IRELAND

—Wildschweinbraten mit Kruste GERMANY SWITZERLAND wild boar with crust

—Yogurtlu Yahni TURKEY lamb with yoghurt

—Youvarlakia Avgolémono GREECE meatballs in egg-lemon sauce

—Zarzuela SPAIN fish stew

—Zeeuwse Bolussen NETHERLANDS Zealander buns

—Zivju Kukas LATVIA fish cake

—Zuurkool met Worst NETHERLANDS sour cabbage with sausage

—Zuppa di Ciliegie SAN MARINO cherry soup

—Zürcher Rösti SWITZERLAND Zurich pan-fried potatoes

Tastes of Europe Introduction

 

FRESH FRICOT | THE FRONT PAGE


EDITORIALS     EURO SNACKS     FOOD CONNECTIONS     FOOD STORIES     
GLOSSARY     HIGH FIVES     LEGENDARY DISHES     
RECIPES     REVIEWS     STREET MARKETS

Breads of Europe | Breakfast Breads – Swiss | Mutschli | Milchbrötchen

Apfelmost-Brotchen-Cut-Out

Wheat Version

 

600 g white wheat flour (t550)
280 ml milk, lukewarm
1 egg separated
50 g butter, softened
30 g honey
35 g leaven
15 g barley malt
20 g yeast
Salt, large pinch

 

Sieve flour into a large bowl, add salt. Work butter into flour.

Dissolve yeast in the milk with the honey.

Pour into flour, add egg white, and knead into a soft dough.

Leave to rise for an hour, degas, leave for a further hour.

Divide dough into 50 g balls, knead, place on buttered baking tray and leave for an hour.

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Brush rolls with beaten egg yolk loosened with a little milk.

After 20 minutes when the buns are turning golden brown spray cold water into the top of the oven.

Repeat again within two minutes. Remove buns from oven eight minutes later.

 

Spelt Version

 

500 g white spelt flour
200 ml milk
50 ml milk, lukewarm
20 g yeast
Salt, large pinch
Flour, for dusting

 

Dissolve yeast in 50 ml of milk, add two tablespoons of flour, stir and leave to foam, about an hour.

Sieve flour into a bowl, add salt and yeast mixture. Knead into a smooth dough.

Leave to rise for an hour, degas, leave for a further hour.

Shape into 50 g balls, place on buttered tray. Leave to rise, 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Brush rolls with water, followed by a dusting of flour.

Bake for 30 minutes.

 

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[Fricot Editions] Ice Trains and Snow Food | Press Release

Ice Trains and Snow Food (Stamboul Trains, Ski Resorts, Magic Carpets, Long Tunnels and Culinary Comforts in White Europe: Istanbul and Paris the Long Way Round in Winter with 101 recipes)  is now available on kindle.

Ice-T-Cover
ICE TRAINS AND SNOW FOOD – STAMBOUL TRAINS, SKI RESORTS, MAGIC CARPETS, LONG TUNNELS AND CULINARY COMFORTS IN WHITE EUROPE – ISTANBUL AND PARIS THE LONG WAY ROUND IN WINTER

The book is a travel narrative through the seven countries of the European Alps plus Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Serbia and Slovenia, featuring stories and recipes.

The print edition will be published in September 2016.

The Ice Travel series will continue with Ice Travel and Snow Food: Culinary Adventures in Alpine Switzerland and Ice Travel and Snow Food: Culinary Adventures in Alpine Italy, with the ebooks of these editions appearing in 2016..

Fricot Editions editor Robert Allen said: ‘This is the first in a series of pocket books about the traditional foods of Europe and how they are being reinterpreted by clever cooks and creative chefs.’

‘There is renewed interest in the foods our great grandparents took for granted. These dishes are part of the fabric of community life, in the cities, towns and villages, and nowhere is this better illustrated than in alpine Europe, where traditions have a habit of remaining faithful while being constantly updated.’

Ice Trains and Snow Food is the first volume in a series of pocket books about the alpine and carpathian regions of Europe.

 


 

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SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN AND THE ART OF EATING WELL | Review

BOOK REVIEW
Artusi-Cover
Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi

Pellegrino Artusi is a legend in Italy, an artist in Florence, where he resided for many years, and a god in Forlimpopli, where he was born and is now celebrated by Festa Artusiana, an annual festival of food.

For a country with an endless number of cookbooks, it is hard to believe sometimes that the Italian home cook always returns to the great favourite – the Artusi interpretation of regional Italian food (and more besides), first published in 1891 by the author after his tome was rejected by numerous publishers.

But Artusi had an edge. His book was the first to
be written with the home cook in mind, especially those who could not speak or read French, the language of cookbooks in 19th century Italy.

Italian language publishers did not see the point of producing a cookbook for the home cook. Artusi persevered. He employed Florentine typographer Salvatore Landi and managed to get the Florentine publisher Bemporad and Figlio to distribute the book. By 1910 La Scienza in Cucina had sold 52,000 copies and was being recognised, according to Luigi Ballerini, as ‘the most significant Italian cookbook of modern times’.

With 790 recipes Artusi set a trend that continues today with modern Italian cookbooks that often contain 800 recipes in big thick tomes. Many of these modern cookbooks are compiled by food writers who collect recipes from chefs and cooks clearly influenced by Artusiana. The Artusian influence resonates down the years to us. Yet one thing is always missing in these modern cookbooks and that is Artusi’s idiosyncratic prose.

Knowing it would be foolish to patronise a home cook he kept his instructions to a minimum and always imparted a little wisdom. Some have said his manner was typical of the Florentine he had become. More likely he realised he would not get away with anything but common sense.

His opening lines in the section on broths, aspic and sauces (always the place to start in any kitchen) illustrate this perfectly.

‘As common folk know, to make a good broth you must put the meat in cold water, and bring the pan to a very slow boil, never letting it boil over. If, instead of a good broth, you prefer a good boiled beef, then put the meat in boiling water without any special care. Everyone knows that spongy bones add flavour and fragrance to broth, but a broth of bones is not especially nutritious.’

His explanations often touched on irony.

‘Couscous is a dish of Arab origin, which the descendants of Moses and Jacob, in their peregrinations, have carried around the world. But who knows how many and what kind of modifications it has undergone in its travels. Nowadays it is used as a first course by the Jews of Italy, two of whom were kind enough to let me taste it and see how it is done. I then made it again in my own kitchen as a test, and can therefore guarantee its legitimacy. However, I cannot guarantee I shall make you understand it:

For it is no simple thing to seek this odd concoction fully to describe,

For a tongue that human words can speak.’

(The latter being a play on words from Dante’s Inferno, where he has difficulty describing the bottom of the universe – the lowest circle of hell.)

He laced his entries with anecdotes.

‘I questioned a street vendor in Romagna on the subject (of castagnaccio – chestnut cake). I described this chesnut cake to her, and asked why she did not try to earn a few pennies selling it.

“What can I tell you,” she replied. “It’s too sweet, nobody would eat it.”

“But those cottarone you are selling, aren’t they sweet? Still they are selling,” I said. “Why don’t you at least try the chestnut cake,” I added. “At first, distribute them free to the children, give them a piece as a gift to see if they start liking the taste. And then the grown-ups are very likely to come after the children.”

‘It was no use, I might as well have been talking to a stone wall.’

In her foreward to the University of Toronto Press English language edition, Michele Scicolone makes a very relevant point.

‘The recipes in La Scienza in Cucina have withstood the test of time and rarely seem dated or outmoded. Ricotta cake, saltimbocca, and frittatas are as familiar and as easily prepared and enjoyed today as they were one hundred years ago. Few restaurants that claim to be Italian would be without bolognese-style ragu, ravioli filled with meat or cheese, pasta with beans, risotto, and roasted and stewed meats on the menu, all of which can be found in La Scienza in Cucina. Though Artusi would never have imagined it, his recipes continue to be used by cooks the world over who appreciate Italian home cooking.’

The fact of the matter, as Artusi might have said, is obvious. If you want to know what traditional Italian food is then look no further than this book.

It is one of a kind! Arguably one of the most entertaining cookbooks ever written.


La Scienza in Cucina has been translated into various languages.

A complete translation in English with an interesting foreward and an extensive introduction is available online here.

See here for biographical and current information on Artusi and his legacy.


All books reviewed in FE will shortly be available to purchase direct from Small World Wholesale.


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A VISIT TO HAZEL MOUNTAIN

 

HazelMountainChocolateLogo
Hazel Mountain Chocolate of the Burren, Clare, Ireland

The chocolatiers of hazel mountain on the edge of the Burren in north Clare in the west of Ireland have every reason to celebrate their first year in business. They are heading a trend that is seeing the art of chocolate-making move out of its traditional centres in Belgium and Switzerland, and setting a trend that has been the preserve of large-scale factories for far too long – cocoa bean roasting!

DaraConboy
Head Roaster Dara Conboy

Dara Conboy, a 25-year-old from county Sligo with a background in coffee bean roasting, is the head roaster on hazel mountain. Recruited by John and Kasia Connolly to get the flavour out of the beans they import from Madagascar and other tropical cocoa growing regions, Conboy is an Irish chocolate expert. He can talk chocolate all day long.

Accompanied by Anna Murphy, a young pastry chef employed to make confections with their chocolate, the Connollys and Conboy are a unique team in rural Ireland.

But they are not alone in Europe. The idea that artisan chocolatiers can roast their own cocoa beans and make their own distinctive chocolate has been seeping into the creative consciousness among European food artisans for several years.

This is not about the mass production of an homogenised product, it is about the flavour and taste that can be coaxed out of cocoa beans with their own delicate aromas, then transferred into artisanal chocolate of quality.

… more to follow …

HazelMountainChocolateBar
The  chocolate of the hazel mountain reflects the wild landscape of the Burren, combining local ingredients like elderberries, hazelnuts and juniper berries with the exotic cocoa beans of the tropics

 

Chocolate Whiskey Coffee

 

1 square Hazel Mountain chocolate, chopped small
1 shot blended Irish whiskey, eg Tullamore Dew
Double espresso
Sugar, pinch

 

Melt chocolate in hot coffee, stir add whiskey and a pinch of sugar, stir again.

 


The chocolatiers of hazel mountain will be featured in a forthcoming television series on the food artisans of Ireland (and Europe).


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COOL CUISINE | Review

BOOK REVIEW

With Cool Cuisine Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir has made an attempt to modernise Iceland’s traditional recipes for a global audience.

CoolCuisineFrontCover
Cool Cuisine by Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir

The result is a gem of a cookbook with numerous iconic recipes that can only be described as mouth watering. What makes this book absolutely fabulous is the fact that the recipes are flawless. Her method in each recipe is precise. A joy to cook!

Rögnvaldardóttir can be regarded as the keeper of Iceland’s traditional food heritage. She has taken up the trend started by Elín Briem, who produced the first influential Icelandic cookbook in 1889, later elaborated on by the Danish-flavoured cookbooks of Jóninna Sigurðardóttir and Helga Sigurðardóttir.

Rögnvaldardóttir has described Helga Sigurðardóttir as the ‘grand lady of Icelandic cooking,’ a title Rögnvaldardóttir probably now deserves for herself, if only because she has researched and interpreted the traditional food of this north Atlantic island with a passion and panache missing from most cookbooks.

Helga Sigurðardóttir championed what Rögnvaldardóttir has called ‘the epitome of Icelandic-Danish cooking, the comfort food modern-day Icelanders feel nostalgic about but rarely cook themselves; flour-thickened sauces, the Sunday roast leg of lamb, pork roast with cracklings, lemon mousse, prune compote, fish salad with mayonnaise sauce, meatballs in brown sauce with jam, and Danish apple charlotte’.

Rögnvaldardóttir has gone for traditional dishes that combine largely Icelandic ingredients – fish, lamb, potatoes, berries, game, sea birds and sea vegetables, and dairy produce – with a few overseas ingredients.

As she puts it, ‘many recipes mix traditional Icelandic ingredients and exotic vegetables, fruits, and spices’. She has been sparing with the exotic influences.

The result is a book full of interesting recipes. She has divided these into four areas – ocean, coast, countryside and mountain.

Curried Haddock with Pineapple, Pepperoni Haddock, White Chocolate Skyr Tart, Cocoa Soup, Cinnamon Rolls, Lamb in Curry Sauce, Dried Fruit Soup and Reindeer Steaks with Red Wine Sauce are her examples of the native-exotic tradition. TroutwithDulseSaucePic&Recipe

Then there are the dishes that are uniquely Icelandic – Rye Flatbread, Skyr with Berries, Iceland Moss Soup, Braised Wild Goose, Juniper-Cured Salmon, Blood Pudding, Leaf Bread, Smoked Leg of Lamb, Trout with Dulce Sauce, Marinated Seabird Breasts, Halibut (or sweet-sour) Soup, Grilled Langoustines and Fish Balls.

Cool Cuisine does not do justice to the range of work produced by Rögnvaldardóttir. Her best work has not been translated from Icelandic, and this delightful colour production only hints at her culinary genius. It disguises some of the most tantalising recipes available from any cookbook anywhere in Europe.

She makes the relevant point herself. ‘It has never been so easy to cook good food – and never so easy not to cook at all.’


An English language edition is available online. CoolCuisineBackCover

We expect to publish an interview with the author later in 2015.


All books reviewed in FE will shortly be available to purchase direct from Small World Wholesale.


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Legendary Dishes | Gnocchi (potato dumplings)

Desireé
Bintje
Agria
ITALY

 

 

 

 

 

To egg or not is the question good cooks ignore when making perfect potato dumplings, known as gnocchi in Italy.

The addition of eggs is associated with Alsace and Piedmont where the technique aids the kneading process, but produces harder gnocchi.

The Alsace version calls for larger pieces, shaped between two spoons. A ratio of 2:1 raw grated potatoes to cooked puréed potatoes is mixed with two eggs and sufficient flour to make a smooth paste.

These gnocchi are seasoned with salt and pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.

In Veneto expert gnocchi makers select potatoes that will not absorb too much flour and hold their shape while cooking. A 4:1 ratio of boiling potatoes to white flour should produce the light fluffy effect demanded by gnocchi aficionados but beware, there are some difficulties.

Marcella Hazan gives one of the best descriptions for shaping Veneta gnocchi using the prongs of a fork.

She recommends small gnocchi, 2.5 x 2 cm pieces, which are pressed against the inside prongs and flipped toward the handle of the fork.

‘When gnocchi are shaped in this manner, the middle section is thinner and becomes more tender in cooking, while the ridges become grooves for the sauce to cling to.’

In Slovakia, where they marry old potatoes to a tangy sheep’s cheese called bryndza, the debate is also a matter of preference.

The traditional method for making bryndzové halušky is without eggs and a high potato to flour ratio of 5 to 1.

Then try eating bryndzové halušky with a 3 to 1 ratio made with egg, coated with grated cheese and sour cream, and served with more cream!

 

Bryndzové Halušky

500 g Agria / Bintje / Desirée potatoes, 
peeled, grated to a purée
300 g Bryndza/sheep's cheese, grated
250 g smoked bacon, cubed
200 ml smetana/sour cream (optional)
100 g flour
1 egg (optional)
Salt, large pinch
Water, for boiling

 

In a large bowl work potatoes, flour and salt (and if using the egg) into a light dough until it comes away from the edges of the bowl. Rub or cut into small dumplings.

Bring a pot of salted water to the boil, add the dumplings, cook until they rise to the surface, about ten minutes.

Drain, retaining the cooking liquid.

Spoon 100ml of the liquid into a bowl with the cheese, fork and whisk into a thin sauce.

If desired mix half of the sour cream into the cheese sauce.

Fry the bacon until the fat runs, drain the fat and crisp for three minutes, turning constantly.

Arrange the halušky in a bowl, cover with the bryndza sauce, top with the bacon.

Serve with remaining sour cream.

 

Gnocchi

Every Italian will tell you quietly that the secret to gnocchi is hidden in the choice of potato.

These would be the varieties of Agate, Agria, Amber, Arizona, Chopin, Finka, Marabel, Monalisa, Universa and Vivaldi grown in Viterbo, between Umbria and Tuscany.

The moderate Lake Bolsena climate and potassium-rich volcanic soils produce potatoes with a pasty consistency, ideal for preparing gnocchi.

That secret is out.

Since 1977 an annual Gnocchi Festival has been held in St. Lorenzo Nuovo.

 

900 g Patata dell'Alto Viterbese potatoes, 
boiled whole in skins, cooled
250 g flour
10 g salt
Water, for boiling
Parmigiano/pecorino, grated fine, for dressing

 

Pass potatoes through a fine colander or potato masher.

Add half the salt salt.

On a clean surface combine potatoes with flour into a pasty dough.

Roll into a sausage 5cm thick, cut into 2cm slices.

Press each piece with the handle of a knife, to form a cup shape.

Bring a large saucepan with water and remaining salt to a rolling boil.

Add gnocchi in batches.

When they rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon.

Serve with a dressing of cheese.

 

Gnocchi di Castagne al Pesto

Sweet and rich.

700 g potatoes, baked, mashed
100 g strong white flour
100 g chestnut flour
1 egg
Salt, pinch
White pepper, pinch
Pesto
100 g basil leaves
100 ml olive oil
40 g Parmigiano
40 g Toscano Pecorino
30 g pine nuts
1 garlic clove
Salt, pinch

Combine potatoes, the two flours, egg and salt in a large bowl. On a floured surface roll into a sausage 5cm thick, cut into 2cm slices. Bring a large saucepan with salt and water to a rolling boil. Add gnocchi in batches. When they rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon into a bowl. Toss in the pesto.

 

Maneghi

A whole different potato dumpling.

300 g American (sweet) potatoes
200 g flour
100 g butter, softened
1 egg
30 g hard cheese, grated
30 g icing sugar
10 g cinnamon, ground

Bake potatoes in 160°C oven for 45 minutes, peel and mash. Leave to cool. In a large bowl mix potatoes with the egg and flour. Shape into gnocchi. Bring to the boil in a pot of hot water. Reduce heat. When gnocchi rise to the surface they are ready. Melt the butter in a large saucepan, fry the cinnamon for ten seconds, add sugar and grana. Toss maneghi in the spicy-sweet butter.

LEGENDARY DISHES


 

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Euro Snacks | Genoa

Pesto has origins in several Italian regions. Like the pizza and its association with Naples, the most famous pesto is an iconic traditional dish of Genoa.

 

Pesto

 

180 g parmigiano/grana padano, fine grated
120 ml olive oil
100 g basil leaves
60 g pecorino/sardoor/toscano, fine grated
30 g pine nuts
4 garlic cloves
10 g sea salt

 

Pound basil with garlic, about 30 leaves for every clove. Use salt to aid grinding.

When the mixture turns into a bright green liquid, add pine nuts. Pound until incorporated.

Add Italian cheese of your choice, then the oil a drop at a time until the consistency is just right.

Fresh pesto is dangerous. Use your imagination and don’t eat too much in one go.


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Legendary Dishes | Oie Rôtie aux Fruits (roast goose with fruit)

FRANCE

Truely one of the great traditional dishes of Europe, a masterpiece of rustic perfection if cooked correctly.

Sadly this dish is beginning to fade from the menus of provincal France because it is no longer an integral aspect of rural life, more often an expedient set of choices from the supermarket.

Having said that all the ingredients can be bought in a good Carrefour during festive times, but to give this feast full recognition the ingredients need to be of the highest quality.

Apples and pears are more popular than apricots and prunes as the fruits to go with roasted goose these days. The intrepid cook usually finds a way to use all four fruits, which can be fresh or dried.

As for the goose, something between three and four kilos is perfect, with giblets and liver included.

Good hunting!

 

3.5 kg goose
250 g potatoes, rough cut large
125 g onion, quartered
100 g carrot, rough cut large
100 g parsnip, rough cut large
4 garlic cloves, whole
10 g rosemary, large sprig
Black pepper, pinch
Salt, pinch
Filling
200 g cooked rice/marrons/walnuts
125g apple, grated
125 g goose liver, chopped coarsely
100 g carrots, grated
100 g orange confit/marmalade, fine chopped
100 g red onions/shallots, sliced
75 g smoked bacon, cubed
50 apple brandy/calvados
50 g currants, soaked in brandy
30 ml brandy
30 g butter
15 g parsley root, fine chopped
5 g sage leaves, fine chopped
Black pepper, pinch
Nutmeg, pinch
Salt, pinch
Olive oil, splash

 

Sauté onions or shallots in the butter for ten minutes over a low heat, add bacon and cook until crispy, then finish with the liver, about five minutes. Leave to cool.

Combine bacon-liver mixture with the marrons, rice or walnuts, add parsley root, raisins, orange confit or marmalade, sage and apple brandy or calvados.

Work in the apple and carrots, add two splashes of brandy, season with nutmeg, pepper and salt.

Sauce
100 ml white wine
50 ml orange juice, from fresh orange
Allspice, pinch
Black pepper, pinch

Accompaniments – 1

(Baked Apples stuffed with Prunes)

4 (x 125 g) apples, cored
12 prunes, dried, pitted

Stuff three prunes into the core of each apple, bake for at least 30 minutes below the roasting vegetables.

 

Accompaniments – 2

(Apricots stuffed with Almonds, wrapped in Bacon)

24 almonds, blanched, skinned
24 apricots, dried, soaked overnight
300 g streaky bacon, cut into 24 slices

Make a small slit in each apricot, insert an almond, wrap in a slice of bacon. Grill turning until the bacon is crispy.

 

Preparation and Cooking

Preheat oven to 210°C.

Stuff goose, sew tightly both ends.

Place goose on a rack above a deep roasting tray.

Cook for 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 180°C, then start basting with the fat that has gathered in the tray every 15 minutes for an hour.

Turn the goose.

Pour out the fat, then pour in 250 ml of boiling water. Place giblets in this water.

Parboil potatoes for ten minutes, leave to cool.

Baste the goose with the fatty water every 15 minutes for two hours.

Turn the goose half way through this stage.

When you are sure the goose is fully cooked, take it out of the oven, and leave to rest for 45 minutes to an hour while you prepare the vegetables. Pour the remaining liquid from the tray into a saucepan and
keep warm. Add the giblets to the pan.

Increase oven temperature to 210°C.

Pour four tablespoons of the goose fat into a separate roasting tray, fill with the carrots, parsnips, potatoes and onions. Season, throw in the garlic and place rosemary sprigs on top.

Roast for 45 minutes, test vegetables and cook further if necessary.

During this time bake the apples, grill the bacon wrapped apricots and make the sauce.

De-glaze the goose tray with the wine and orange juice, add three tablespoons of giblet liquid, season and reduce.

Serve the goose with the roast vegetables, baked apples and apricot wraps, the sauce in a jug.

 

Afterwards – Cranberry, Beetroot, Goose and Pork Pie / s

The dark meat and the fruit and nut stuffing from the roast goose with fruit are the essental elements in this dish, albeit as a means to use leftovers.

LEGENDARY DISHES

 


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Euro Snacks | Côte d’Azur

Tapénade, a dish of the Provençal region of south-east France and specific to Marseille, was originally made by pounding fresh capers with anchovy fillets in a mortar, gradually drizzling olive oil and lemon juice into the mixture, finishing with a grinding of black pepper.
This mixture was added to pounded hard-boiled egg yolks and stuffed into halved eggs, then served as an hors d’œuvre.
Over time stoned black olives were added to give the tapénade depth, and to allow it to be served pâté-like. Some recipes called for tuna fish, others for garlic, herbs and mustard.
Tapénade remains a dish of Provence, because the ingredients – especially the capers (which give this sauce its name) – need to be fresh.

Tapénade – 1

 

100 g anchovy fillets
100 g capers, fresh
30 ml olive oil
1 lemon, juiced
Black pepper, pinch
Brandy, splash
8 hard-boiled eggs, halved length-wise, yolks retained
Pound the anchovies and capers in a mortar (or blender), add oil, brandy and sufficient lemon juice to make a sauce, thicken with the hard-boiled yolks, season with pepper.
Stuff the mixture into the eggs, serve with a drizzle of the tapénade over each halved egg.

Tapénade – 2

 

275 g black olives, pitted
100 g anchovies in olive or sunflower oil
100 g capers, fresh or brined
100 g tuna in oil (optional)
60 ml olive oil
1 lemon, large, juiced
10 g mustard
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 bay leaf, crushed
Blend everything in a food processor, serve on toasted fresh bread.

Other Sauces

 


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Legendary Dishes | Risotto

ITALY

CarnaroliRice

Risotto alla Stoccafisso

Venetian restaurants pre-cook a basic risotto to save time, halting the procedure after ten minutes when the rice is part-cooked.

Ironically, given the relationship the people of the lagoon have with air-dried cod, it is the perfect method for risotto alla stoccafisso.

1.5 litres fish stock, heated
350 g carnaroli rice
150 ml milk
150 g stockfish (air-dried cod), rehydrated
60 g grana padano, grated
40 g butter, for frying and finish
30 ml white wine
15 g parsley, chopped
Olive oil, for frying

In a deep wide frying pan, toast the rice in butter and oil over a medium heat, deglaze with wine and begin to add hot stock one ladleful at a time.

Stop after ten minutes.

Cover the pan, turn off heat, allow to cool, then remove contents to a separate container.

Resume cooking after several hours in a clean frying pan.

An hour before resumption, place the cod in a saucepan, cover with milk and simmer over a low heat.

Drain the milk from the cod, flake it and stir into the rice.

Increase heat, add stock and continue until the rice is al dente, about ten minutes.

Finish with butter and cheese, garnish with parsley.

 

Risotto alla Baccalà Mantecato

Slightly different.

1.5 litres vegetable stock, heated
350 g carnaroli rice
200 g Baccalà Mantecato
65 g grana padano, grated
40 g butter
15 g parsley, chopped
Olive oil, for frying

In a deep, wide frying pan over a high heat, toast the rice in oil, add a ladleful of hot stock and stir continuously until the liquid is absorbed.

Decrease heat to medium, add another ladleful of stock, simmer and stir until the liquid is absorbed.

Repeat this process until the rice is al dente, about 12 minutes.

Add the creamed cod, stir into rice, cover and simmer over a low heat for five minutes.

Finish with butter, cheese and parsley.

Remove from heat, leave to rest for ten minutes.

 

Risotto de Pesse alla Polesana

1.5 litres fish stock, heated
350 g carnaroli rice
300 g fresh shellfish – clams, mussels, 
razor clams,shrimp – all whole; cuttlefish, 
squid – chopped small)
100 g onion, chopped 
75 ml dry white wine
50 g parmigiano, grated
25 g garlic, crushed, chopped
20 g butter, for frying and dressing
15 ml olive oil
15 g parsley, chopped
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground

Sauté garlic and onion in butter and oil in a deep, wide frying pan over a low heat, about ten minutes.

Increase heat to high, coat rice, toast for three minutes, stirring constantly.

Pour in the wine and allow to evaporate, decrease heat to medium, add a ladleful of the hot stock, simmer and stir until the liquid is absorbed.

Repeat until rice is creamy but not cooked through, about 15 minutes.

There should be some liquid floating on the surface of the rice.

Turn heat to low.

Lay the fish on top of the rice, in stages according to the cooking requirements of the fish, covering the pan each time – for clams, mussels and shrimp aboit five minutes, for cuttlefsh and squid about ten minutes.

Complete with butter, cheese, parsley and pepper.

Remove from heat, leave to rest for ten minutes.

 

Risotto con Gamberoni

1.5 ml vegetable broth, heated
1 melon, medium-sized
350 g carnaroli rice
250 g prawns / shrimp
125 g parmigiano, grated
2 shallots, chopped
20 ml olive oil
15 g butter
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
Saffron, large pinch
Salt, pinch

Cut melon into two halves, deseed and skin, cut into flesh into cubes.

Put half the cubes into a food processor, refrigerate the paste.

In a deep, wide frying pan sauté shallots in oil over a low heat, about 15 minutes.

Increase heat to medium, coat and toast rice, add a ladleful of broth, the remaining melon and shrimp.

When the rice absorbs the liquid, add more stock.

After three minutes add the melon paste, increase heat, stir and cook until the rice absorbs the liquid.

Reduce heat to low, keep stirring, add more stock and test, adding another ladleful of stock if necessary.

When the rice is al dente, add cheese, saffron and salt.

Leave to rest for ten minutes.

 

Risotto alla Milanese

Milan in the 1500s was the centre of rice production in Italy. An irrigation system of canals and locks criss-crossed Piedmont, Lombardy and the Veneto, covering the length of the Po Valley from the alps to the Adriatic. Now the rice varieties known as arborio, baldo, carnaroli and vialone nano are grown for the purpose of making a fabulous range of creamy risotto dishes. One more than any other has come to symbolise the rice of the Po Valley – Risotto alla Milanese.

Risotto alla Milanese is also made with beef stock, bone marrow, butter and white wine, the marrow being added with the onions, the white wine to deglaze and the butter as a finish. A third version has Marsala wine. Pancetta can replace the marrow.

1.5 litres chicken stock, heated
350 g vialone nano rice
150 g onions, chopped
100 g parmigiano, grated
20 saffron filaments, ground, soaked in 
100 ml of hot stock

Saute onions in butter in a deep, wide frying pan over a low heat, about ten minutes.

VialoneNanoRice

Coat and toast the rice in the butter and onions.

Increase heat to medium, coat and toast rice in the butter and onions, add a ladleful of broth.

When the rice absorbs the liquid, add more stock and continue for ten minutes, then add the saffron-infused stock.

Add more stock, cook until rice is al dente, a further seven minutes.

Dress with cheese, cover and leave to rest for ten minutes.

 

 

Risotto Panissa

Across the Po Valley on the Vercelli plain beyond Milan in Piedmont, the Saluggia bean is joined with Novara salami to produce a risotto rooted in local tradition.

1.5 litres beef broth, heated
350 g baldo rice
300 g salame della duja, chopped
300 g Saluggia beans, soaked
150 g onion, chopped
70 g pancetta, diced
35 g butter
30 ml olive oil
30 g pork rind, chopped
10 g black pepper, freshly ground

Cook the beans in the broth, strain and retain the liquid.

Melt the oil and butter in a deep, wide frying pan over a low heat.

Saute pancetta, salami and onions for ten minutes, combine with half of the beans.

Add rice, coat and toast for five minutes over a high heat.

Reduce heat to medium, cover rice mixture with a ladle of the beef-bean stock.

When the rice has absorbed the liquid, add another ladle and repeat until the rice is al dente and there is still some liquid in the pan, about 20 minutes.

Stir in remaining beans, garnish with pepper, leave to rest for ten minutes.

 

Risotto in Bianco

If these recipes appear daunting, here is the basic recipe to practice on.

Sauté onion in butter and oil over a low heat for ten minutes.

Deglaze pan with white wine.

Add risotto rice, coat and toast over a low heat for five minutes.

Increase heat to medium.

Pour in a ladleful of hot stock, cook until the rice is absorbed.

Keep adding ladlefuls of stock one at a time allowing the rice to absorb the liquid, continuing until the rice is al dente, no more than 17 minutes.

There is a small variation in absorption rates between risotto rices, which take three times their weight in liquid.

There should be a layer of liquid on the surface of the rice.

Add a large knob of butter and some grated cheese, grana padano or parmigiano.

Cover, leave to rest for ten minutes.

Garnish with salt and pepper.

 

Other Risotti

Carnaroli-low-res
Rice with beans, broccoli and sausage
Risotto all'Ardenza
olive oil, peperoncino, arborio, fish stock, mussels, 
prawns, scallops, squid, parsley

Risotto con gli Asparagi 
olive oil, celery, onion, white wine, vialone nano, 
vegetable stock, seasonings, parsley

Risotto col Brodo di Pesce dell'artusi 
olive oil, carrot, celery, garlic, onion, parsley, 
seasonings, passata, vialone, fish stock, butter, 
grana padano, dried porcini

Risotto con Castagne e Porcini 
olive oil, shallots, parsley, mushrooms, butter, 
carnaroli, chestnuts, vegetable broth, parmigiano, 
black pepper

Risotto con Carciofi 
olive oil, garlic, onion, artichoke hearts, 
vegetable stock, marjoram, butter, onion, 
white wine, carnaroli, artichoke mixture, 
cream, parmigiano

Risotto con Fegatini 
butter, shallots, chicken livers, beef marrow, 
white wine, vialone nano, beef broth, butter, 
parmigiano, seasonings

Risotto con Funghi 
olive oil, onion, mushrooms, arborio, vegetable stock, 
butter, parmigiano

Risotto con Gamberi 
olive oil, carrot, celery, garlic, onion, parsley, 
unshelled prawns, seasonings, passata, baldo, water, 
prawn paste, butter, parmigiano

Risotto al Limone 
carnaroli, butter, olive oil, white wine-prosecco, 
vegetable broth, lemon zest, parmigiano, butter

Risotto nero alla Fiorentina dell'artusi 
olive oil, garlic, onion, cuttlefish, cuttlefish ink, 
chard, arborio, fish stock, butter, parmigiano

Risotto con Piselli 
butter, olive oil, onion, seasonings, white wine, 
carnaroli, vegetable stock, butter, peas, parmigiano

Risotto con la Salsiccia 
butter, onion, chopped sausage, passata, seasonings,
vialone nano, beef broth, seasonings

Risotto alla Sbirraglia 
olive oil, carrot, celery, onion, chicken pieces, 
white wine, passata, rosemary, seasonings, water, 
arborio, chicken stock, chicken pieces, butter, 
parmigiano

Risotto con di Sécole 
butter, onion, beef/veal scraps, black pepper, 
white wine, beef broth, cinnamon/nutmeg, 
carnaroli, butter, parmigiano

Risotto alla Veronese 
tastasale-Veronese salami, white wine, rosemary, 
vialone nano, beef broth, cinnamon, parmigiano

Risotto con le Vongole 
olive oil, garlic, white wine, clams, carnaroli, 
seasonings, parsley

Risotto con Zucca 
carnaroli, butter, oil, rosemary, pumpkin, white wine, 
vegetable broth, black pepper, butter

More Recipes

LEGENDARY DISHES


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Legendary Dishes | Meat Pie

FriedPorkBelly
Fried Pork Belly – the secret ingredient in rustic pork pies

 

The meat pie appears to be a northern European invention with a very long history.

Traditionally made with short crust pastry – flour, lard and water – the original pies were filled with all kinds of game meat and flavoured with the foods of the forest.

Although there is an argument that pork meat was used, particularly in Britain, and this established the pie tradition we know today.

Certainly it became a city-country divide – game in the country, pork in the city.

 

Game Pie

 

JuniperBerries
Juniper Berries – an essential ingredient in game pies

A puff pastry lid is adequate if the emphasis is on the contents, and it is easier but the traditional dish calls for thick hot water pastry.

These days the kind of pastry once used for raised pies is no longer acceptable, so the choice of dough is entirely personal.

This is the traditional hot water pastry recipe, the icing sugar a modern touch.

Game pies were always about the fruits, game, herbs, spices and vegetables of the field and forest, and this combination is still favoured across nothern Europe.

 

Dough
450 g strong white flour
150 ml water
125 g lard
15 g pepper
10 g salt
1 tsp icing sugar
Meat Choices
Hare - breast meat
Partridge – breast meat
Pheasant – breast meat
Pigeon – breast meat
Rabbit – breast meat
Venison - loin meat
Filling
1.25 kg meat, chopped small 
300 g forest mushrooms, chopped
150 g bacon, chopped
150 g chicken liver, chopped
150 g onions, chopped small
100 g chestnuts, chopped
50 g apricots, chopped
30 g sage, chopped
15 g juniper berries, crushed
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp rosemary/tarragon, chopped
Allspice, ground, large pinch
Sunflower oil, for frying
Jelly
500 ml aspic/jelly (see raised pie recipe)
Marinade
150 ml red wine/stout
30 g pomegranate seeds, ground
15 g paprika, smoked
15 ml soy sauce
10 thyme sprigs

 

Thyme
Thyme

Marinade the meat overnight, drain any excess liquid.

Sauté garlic and onions in oil over a low heat in a large frying pan, add mushrooms and when they begin to wilt add the bacon and liver, cover and simmer for ten minutes, leave to cool.

Work the meat and mushroom mixture with the herbs and spices in a large bowl into a homogenous mass, add apricots and chestnuts, and any wild berries to hand. Set aside.

Bring the lard and water to the boil.

Sieve flour and salt into a large bowl, add pepper and sugar.

Pour the hot liquid into a well in the centre of the flour, and using a sturdy wooden spoon quickly form into a soft dough.

Push the dough into the bottom and sides of a large pie tin, cutting off the excess dough to use for the lid.

Preheat oven to 220°C.

Pack the tin with the filling, roll the remaining dough out, place over the filling, crimping the edges.

Left over pieces of dough should be shaped into decorations for the lid. Pierce a hole in the centre of the lid.

Reduce oven temperature to 180°C, bake for 90 minutes.

If a golden colour is desired, remove pie from oven, brush lid with a beaten egg, then bake for 30 minutes at 160°C.

Heat the jelly stock, pour slowly into the hole in the centre of the pie lid, leave to cool.

 

Raised Pie

 

Traditionally baked with a casing to keep the flavoured meat clean and moist, then discarded, modern raised pies are made with a standard hot water pastry meant to be eaten.

 

Dough
450 g flour
200 g lard
200 ml water
Salt, large pinch
Filling
1 kg pork shoulder, chopped small
150 g onions, chopped small
100 g anchovies, chopped
30 g sage, chopped
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp nutmeg, grated
Jelly
500 ml aspic, or
2 litres water
1 kg assorted bones
1 pig's foot/trotter
1 carrot
1 onion
50 g mixed herbs
15 g black peppercorns
10 g juniper berries
5 bay leaves

Cook ingredients in a large pot for three hours, strain, reduce to 500 ml.

 

Combine the filling ingredients in a large bowl, set aside.

Bring the lard and water to the boil.

Sieve flour and salt into a large bowl, add pepper and sugar.

Pour the hot liquid into a well in the centre of the flour, and using a sturdy wooden spoon quickly form into a soft dough.

On a clean surface knead the dough for five minutes.

Separate 225 g of the dough for the lid, cover with a warm towel.

Roll the remaining dough into a ball, place on a large piece of greaseproof paper.

Push a breakfast bowl, 15 cm wide, into the dough, then work it into the shape of a large pie casing, drawing up and straightening the sides, which should be thick.

Leave to cool under a towel.

Preheat oven to 180°C.

After 15 minutes fill the pie, roll out the dough for the lid, place on top and crimp the edges. Make a hole in the centre of the lid.

Holding the sides of the greaseproof paper transfer the pie to a baking tray

Bake for two hours, glaze with a beaten egg wash, return to oven and bake at 160°C for an hour.

Heat the jelly stock, pour slowly into the hole in the centre of the pie lid, leave to cool.

 

Scotch Pie

 

Dough
300 g pastry flour
100 g chapati flour (or 50:50 white-wholemeal)
50 g strong white flour
250 ml water
125 g lard
10 g salt
Filling
500 g lamb, lean, minced
1 onion, chopped finely
60 ml stock, hot
30 g breadcrumbs
10 g tamarind concentrate
Cinnamon, ground, large pinch
1 tsp mustard powder
1 tsp nutmeg, grated
1 tsp paprika, ground
40 ml aspic jelly, heated
Salt
Pepper
8 cm pie tins x 8

 

Mix tamarind with stock, cinnamon, mustard and paprika.

Combine meat and onions, add breadcrumbs, tamarind-spice water. Season with nutmeg, pepper and salt.

Knead meat mixture until the fat starts to come off on the fingers.

Put the water into a saucepan, add lard and bring to a low boil. Remove from heat.

Sieve flours into a large bowl, add salt, form a well, pour lard liquid in and quickly stir with a spatula, bringing the ingredients together into a soft dough.

Quickly separate the dough into 75g pieces for the pie bottoms and 25g for the pie tops. Roll into balls.

Put a large ball in a tin. Using both thumbs push the dough evenly around the interior of the tin, with a little bit of overlap at the rim.

Fill three-quarters of the tin with the lamb mixture. Repeat until all the filling is used up.

Make 8cm diameter disks of the small balls.

Lay a disk on top of the filling and using a thumb and forefinger, press the disk into the dough to form a raised lip around the rim of the tin.

Reheat the stock.

Make two holes in the lid of each pie, pour a teaspoon of hot stock into each hole.

 

Pork Pie

 

Dough
500 g flour
190 g lard
65 ml milk
65 ml water
Salt, pinch
Milk, for glazing
Cranberry
Cranberries
Filling
750 g pork pieces
50 g cranberries
25 g anchovies
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
Salt, pinch
Water

 

Cover pork in water in a saucepan, simmer for an hour, strain, reserve jellied stock.

Combine milk and water, bring to a slow boil, add lard, allow to melt.

Mince anchovies into the pork, season.

Sieve flour and salt in a large bowl.

Pour lard liquid into flour, stir quickly with a spatula, form into a soft dough, knead for five minutes.

Quickly separate the dough into 75g pieces for the pie bottoms and 25g for the pie tops. Roll into balls.

Put a large ball in a tin. Using both thumbs push the dough evenly around the interior of the tin, with a little bit of overlap at the rim.

Fill three-quarters of the tin with the pork mixture. Repeat until all the filling is used up.

Make 8cm diameter disks of the small balls.

Lay a disk on top of the filling and using a thumb and forefinger, press the disk into the dough to form a raised lip around the rim of the tin.

Reheat the stock.

Make two holes in the lid of each pie, pour a teaspoon of hot stock into each hole.

 


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Legendary Dishes | Mămăligă and Polenta (boiled cornmeal)

Balkans | Italy

 

Polenta stares at us from the past.

Of all the foods of antiquity none bar unleavened bread has the longevity of polenta.

Coarse ground grains and pulses have been an intregral element of our daily diet for tens of thousands of years. By the time they were written into timeless history, their evolution beyond flours had been forgotten and despite archeological evidence all we can do is guess what our ancient ancestors did with them.

Modern polenta, made from dried corn meal, is a clue.

Before corn was introduced into Europe and ingenious cooks mixed it with local cheeses, herbs and meats to form the polenta dishes we know today in the Balkans, in Italy, Sardinia and Sicily, polenta was made with barley, millet, sorghum and spelt grains, and with countless varieties of peas and beans, and with chestnuts – a tradition that continues in Italy.

Like the polenta of today it was made without addition or adornment. In some regions it was enriched with whatever was at hand, fresh berries, herbs and other fruits of the forest, as was the tradition in alpine Italy.

There were no rules, and definitely no recipes.

If anyone did record polenta recipes it was the Etruscans, the Italic people who occupied northern and middle Italy before the invading Phoenicians and the conquering Romans.

These pagan people transformed the forests and swamps of Etruria into fields and gardens, growing the grains and legumes that accompanied the fauna, fish and fowl served at their sumptuous banquets and feasts.

It is not a huge stretch of the imagination to envisage the Etruscan table with a
thick pulmentario made from ground barley cut into slices and adorned with fish and meat.

Not when it is now possible to eat squares of corn polenta adorned with prosciutto or sardines in a modern Florentine cafe.

The history of polenta becomes interesting when the contrasting recipes of the Balkans and Italy are examined, and old recipes, with chestnut flour or semolina, are reinterpreted.

The potential of polenta has always been there, and the connections are closer than we think.

Pellegrino Artusi refers to a 19th century recipe that calls for corn polenta cooked in milk with salt and baked with layers of béchamel and parmigiano. This is not that dissimilar to the mămăligă and kačamak made on the Balkan side of the Adriatic.

 

Mămăligă

 

1.2 litres water
500 g corn meal, coarse ground
500 g curd cheese, creamed
300 ml sour cream
100 g butter
2 eggs, beaten
15 g salt
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
Olive oil, for greasing
Semolina, for dusting

 

Boil the water with salt.

Using a funnel pour the corn meal in a steady flow into the water, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon.

Vladimar Mirodan describes this procedure in his Balkan Cookbook: ‘When the water begins to bubble, sprinkle two tablespoons of the maize (corn) flour over the surface of the water.

‘Allow the water to boil furiously and pour the rest of the maize flour in a steady trickle stirring all the time with a wooden spoon in a clockwise circular motion; do not change the direction of the stirring.

‘Lower the heat to moderate and allow the porridge to boil for 25-30 minutes, uncovered.’

The result is a thick polenta. Leave to cool.

Mirodan: ‘Romanian polenta dishes should be too thick to stir and have a strong, almost crunchy texture.’

Divide the cooked polenta into two equal portions, one into a large bowl with the butter.

After ten minutes stir the polenta into the melted butter.

Combine the cheese with the eggs.

When the polenta with the butter has cooled, add the cheese-egg mixture and mix with a fork into a creamy consistency.

Preheat oven to 180°C.

Lightly grease a large baking tray with the oil, sprinkle with semolina, then the pepper.

Press the plain polenta into the semolina-pepper, covering the tray.

Place the cheese polenta on top, covering the bottom layer.

Smooth with a wide blade or make ridges with a fork.

Bake for 35 minutes until the surface has taken on a golden brown colour.

 

Mămăliguţă cu brânză şi Smântână

 

2 litres water
500 g corn meal, coarse ground
500 g curd cheese, creamed
500 ml sour cream
300 g hard cheese, grated
300 g smoked bacon, diced
50 g butter, unsalted

 

Prepare the polenta using the previous method, then stir the butter in while it is still hot. This will produce a softer polenta.

Preheat oven to 160°C.

Fry bacon over a medium heat for five minutes until it is crispy, pour fat into a large baking tray.

Spread a thin layer of potenta on the tray, sprinkle the grated cheese followed by the sour cream, dots of curd cheese and the bacon, repeat until there is only cheese and cream left. Finish with a layer of grated cheese, curd cheese and sour cream.

Bake for 45 minutes, until the top begins to brown.

 

A note on cheese and cream: Mămăligă is made throughout the Balkans, the cheeses and creams being the specific difference between regions.

Generally the choice is curd cheese made from cow, goat and sheep milk, Sirene in Bulgaria, Feta in Greece, Telemea in Romania.

The choice of hard cheese is Cașcaval (aka Kachkaval).

The choice of cream varies between thick sour cream known throughout the Balkans and eastern Europe as smetana (smântână in Romania), and home made fermented cream called kajmak.

Kajmak is preferred in the eastern Balkan countries where mămăligă is known as kačamak.

La Polenta di Castagne

 

2 litres water
500 g chestnut flour
Salt, pinch

 

Boil the water with salt.

Using a funnel pour the chestnut flour in a steady flow into the water, stir to incorporate, then leave to cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes.

Serve with ricotto, pancetta and sausage.

 

Crostini di Polenta

 

1.5/2 litres water
500 g polenta flour, fine
180 g Ricotta, creamed
180 g Emmental, grated
1 egg yolk, beaten
75 g Parmigiano, grated fine for garnish
Salt, pinch, for cooking water and sauce
Olive oil, for cooking water, frying, greasing and sauce

 

Follow the cooking instructions from the packet of polenta for amount of water and cooking time.

Boil the water with salt and a splash of oil.

Using a funnel pour the corn meal in a steady flow into the water, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until cooked.

Pour out into a deep sided short baking tray, lightly greased.

When the polenta has cooled turn it out onto a work surface, cut into squares, 5cm x 5cm x 1cm.

Whip a tablespoon of olive into the egg yolk, combine with the emmental and ricotta in a saucepan over a very low heat, cook until bubbles begin to appear on the surface.

Fry the polenta squares in a tablespoon of oil, two minutes each side.

Serve with the cheese sauce, garnish with parmigiano.

 

Sgonfiotto di Farina Gialla

 

This is an adaptation of Artusi’s recipe for polenta soufflé.

 

350 ml milk
105 g corn meal/polenta flour, fine ground
4 egg whites
20 g butter
2 egg yolks, beaten
10 g sugar
Salt, pinch
Butter, for greasing

 

Bring milk to the boil over a high heat.
Using a funnel pour the corn meal in a steady flow into the milk, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until cooked.
Remove to a bowl, stir in butter, sugar and salt.
When the polenta is cold stir in the egg yolks.
Preheat oven to 160°C.
Beat the egg whites, stir into the polenta, and transfer to buttered ovenproof moulds.
Bake for 15 minutes, until the polenta soufflé rises.
Serve in moulds.

 

Polenta di Sardinia

 

Sardinia, outside the circuit of civilisation as D. H. Lawrence put it, has always produced traditional food a class apart from the peninsula, and the method with polenta is no different. It compares with the Balkan tradition, which is interesting. Ideas being transferred by the fishers of the Mediterranean seas perhaps? It wouldn’t be the first time.

 

2 litres water
500 g corn meal, coarse ground
200 g pancetta, diced
100 g pecorino, grated
100 g salami, diced
100 g onions, chopped
50 ml passata
6 cloves garlic, chopped
Basil, large pinch
Parsley, large pinch
Salt, pinch

Follow the cooking instructions from the packet of polenta for amount of water and cooking time.

Boil the water with salt.

Using a funnel pour the corn meal in a steady flow into the water, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until.

After ten minutes add the remaining ingredients, continue to stir and when ready pour out onto a clean work surface, cut in slices and serve, or use cold with adornments of your choice.


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Ingredient | Egg

Egg-LayingHen-Sometimes
Egg layer – when the mood takes her

 

Hens say it will be new year before we can expect any eggs from them … and perhaps a story to accompany the event …


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Ingredient | Fungi | Mushroom

Porcini
Dried Porcini

 

 

Every spring and autumn the wild forests of Europe are occupied by eager hunters whose task is nothing more than back-breaking. The hunt is relatively easy to those who know the signs that tell them what to ignore.

Their quary is a delicacy.

It requires a foraging instinct and a keen eye.

They know their objects of desire by local names, we know them as mushrooms.

Mushrooms are highly prized, and always have been because they are protein and vitamin rich, and taste good.

Barley and Mushroom soup is one of the oldest traditional dishes in Europe. It combines field and forest, is earthy and wholesome.

Besides soup, barley and mushrooms came together as a porridge, not so much these days.
Creamed mushroom soup is also a very old dish, and is still found on a menu in a backstreet cafe – or in a can.

Mushroom sauce is as popular today as it was two thousand years ago.

Liver sautéed with mushrooms and onions has been reinvented so many times it is a wonder it still retains its original charm.

Fried mushrooms are amazing!

Mushrooms are stuffed in various foods, from eggs to pies to poultry.

They are an essential ingredient in dumplings, omelettes, pancakes, pâté (as a duxelles) pies (pirogi and pirozhki) and stews.

Chanterelles are pickled, forever it seems.

 

PorciniinaBasket-2
Boletus Edulis aka cèpe de bolete, cèpe, porcino, steinpilze

Agaricus – champignon d’Paris, white mushroom – has been cultivated since the 17th century when it was grown in the cool, dark, humid caves of stone quarries near Paris on beds of horse manure. Eaten fresh in salad but more often baked, grilled, sautéed, scambled (with eggs) and stuffed, and added
to sauces, soups and stews.

Boletus Edulis – cèpe de bolete, cèpes, porcino, steinpilze –
is the most famous of the European mushrooms. Eaten fresh
in season, if you are lucky to know where to go to pick them
or have a reliable supplier, and widely available dried. Used
in sauces, soups, stews and stuffings.

Chanterelle – pfifferling, girolle (yellow, black and white trumpets) – is a native to Europe as a wild species. Anything goes, especially fried.

MorelsCloseUp
Morels

Morel – black, yellow and white – is a delicately scented mushroom more often available dried. Popular in French, Spanish and Swiss traditional cooking, often as a simple dish sautéed in butter. Large morels are filled with pork sausage meat.

Oyster, grown in clusters on deciduous trees, has been successfully cultivated, primarily for its earthy flavour when picked young. Dried and ground it is used as a garnish. Oyster mushroom omelette is arguably one of Europe’s most popular traditional dishes.

Truffle – black Périgord, white Piedmont – is found in old forests near host trees, using spores to propagate. Attempts to cultivate them have failed and with the loss of wild forest they remain elusive except to trained dogs and untrained sows. Used in sauces and pates, especially pâte de foie gras.

 

Chicken Liver and Mushroom Pâté

 

500 g chicken livers, chopped
125 g pancetta 
100 g shallots, chopped small
2 eggs
50 g porcini, dried, reconstituted, sliced
50 ml red wine
45 g anchovies
50 g pear, dried, diced
30 g butter
15 ml olive oil
5 g black pepper, coarsely ground
1 sprig thyme
Sea salt, pinch

Sauté pancetta in half the butter until crispy. Remove from pan.

Sauté chicken liver in remaining butter, and oil for three minutes.

Mix in shallots and mushrooms, fry over low heat for ten minutes.

Add pancetta, thyme, bay leaves and seasonings, and stir.

Remove with slotted spoon, and put in a bowl with anchovies.

De-glace pan with wine, add to liver mixture.

Add pear to mixture, allow to cool, incorporate eggs.

Preheat oven to 160°C.

Blend mixture, spoon into a baking dish, cover with foil.

Bake for an hour.

 

Sienisalaatti

 

This Finnish mushroom salad is more often than not made with mixed mushrooms out of a jar with sour cream mixed with lemon juice, garlic salt and dill.

The fresh version is better if you can get the mushrooms.

 

500 g fresh boletus, chanterelle, oyster mushrooms
250 ml sour cream
1 lemon, juiced
1 onion, chopped finely (optional)
Dill, handful

 

Soak the mushrooms in cold water for ten minutes to remove dirt and grit. Dry with paper towels.

Mix sour cream with lemon juice, onions and dill.

Gently fold mushrooms into the cream.

Soy milk, flour and oil reduced to a sauce is a vegan alternative to the cream.

Griby v Smetanie

 

Another marriage of mushrooms and sour cream dish, typically Russian, despite being common across northern and eastern Europe, with few variations.

500 g mushrooms, fresh, mixed
8 scallions, chopped (optional)
160 ml sour cream
60 g butter
50 g cheese, grated (optional)
30 g flour
1 tsp lemon juice
Dill, handful
Salt, pinch
Pepper, pinch

 

Fry mushrooms in butter and if using scallions until soft.

Mix sour cream and flour into a loose batter. Stir into mushrooms, add dill, lemon juice, pepper and salt.

Alternatively pour mushroom mixture into an ovenproof dish, top with grated cheese and bake for 20 minutes in a medium (175°C) oven.

 

Traditional Mushroom Dishes

 

Morels
Morels retain their earthy flavour and when combined with pork meat are one of Europe’s traditional dishes

 

 

Bigos – Meat, Mushroom, Sauerkraut and Sausage Stew (Poland)

Calamaretti Ripeni – Baby Squid, Porcini and Salicornia (Italy)

Ciuperci și Sos de Smântână – Sour Cream, Mushroom and Onion Sauce (Romania)

Fritaja – Bacon, Mushrooms, Sausages and Wine (Croatia/Slovenia)

Gerstensuppe – Barley and Mushroom Soup (Switzerland/Europe)

Gobova Župa – Mushroom Soup (Slovenia)

Griby v Smetanie – Baked Mushrooms with Cheese and Sour Cream (Russia)

Kaša sa Pečurkama – Barley Porridge with Mushrooms (Montenegro)

Lesnická Šunka – Ham in Bacon, Mushroom Wine Sauce (Czech Republic)

Murgues farcides amb carn de Porc – Morels stuffed with Pork Sausage Meat (Andorra)

Mushrooms with Garlic and Olive Oil (Mediterranean)

Palacsinta – Pancakes with Minced Bacon, Cheese, Mushrooms and Yoghurt (Hungary)

Risotto con Castagne e Porcini – Risotto with Chestnuts and Mushrooms (Italy)

Risotto con Funghi – Risotto with Morels and Porcini (Italy, Switzerland)

Selsko Meso – Baked Meat and Mushrooms (Macedonia)

Sienisalaatti – Mushroom Salad (Finland)

Vadgombaleves – Wild Mushroom soup (Hungary)

Vin Rouge – Red Wine and Mushroom Sauce (France)


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