Spaghetti carbonara is an ancient Italian dish, isn’t it? A delicacy as simple as its ingredients – bacon, cream, eggs, pasta. Spaghetti has a very old history and everyone knows that creamy sauces were devised to cling to these long strings of thin pasta. Think again.
Here we present three recipes that feature this aromatic cheese.
Tourte a l’Abondance (Abondance cheese pie)
And here we invite you to enter the world of Abondance. It is fun and informative.
STREET FOOD OF THE MONTH
Balık Ekmek (Fish Sandwich)
This is a very popular street food of the old city part of Istanbul called Eminönü. The old port, where all the trade took place during the Ottoman period, houses the famous Spice Market and in front of it by the seaside, the special wooden boats where the fish sandwiches are cooked and sold. These special wooden boats have a built-in grill that is used to grill the fillet of mackerel. The grilled mackerel is placed in the sandwich bread together with a mix of salad greens and sliced white onions, and placed in a paper wrapper and given to the hungry customers. A very filling and cheap street food that is especially popular among the residents of Istanbul.
FRICOT BOOK OF THE MONTH
Small breads, flat, round and shaped, define breakfast all over the world, but in Europe in recent years they have become essential and, not content with the basic brötchen of flour, salt, water and yeast known to early morning workers of yesteryear, today bakers make them with a range of ingredients. Later this year we will be publishing a collection of recipes for the small breads eaten every day across Europe. In the meantime here are a few appetisers.
GUEST BOOK OF THE MONTH COOL CUISINE
With Cool Cuisine Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir has made an attempt to modernise Iceland’s traditional recipes for a global audience. The result is a gem of a cookbook with numerous iconic recipes that can only be described as mouth watering. What makes this book absolutely fabulous is the fact that the recipes are flawless. Her method in each recipe is precise. A joy to cook!
Rögnvaldardóttir can be regarded as the keeper of Iceland’s traditional food heritage. She has taken up the trend started by Elín Briem, who produced the first influential Icelandic cookbook in 1889, later elaborated on by the Danish-flavoured cookbooks of Jóninna Sigurðardóttir and Helga Sigurðardóttir.
Rögnvaldardóttir has described Helga Sigurðardóttir as the ‘grand lady of Icelandic cooking,’ a title Rögnvaldardóttir probably now deserves for herself, if only because she has researched and interpreted the traditional food of this north Atlantic island with a passion and panache missing from most cookbooks.
TRADITIONAL DISH OF THE MONTH
TRADITIONAL BREAD OF THE MONTH
High above the Simmen valley in the Berner oberland, Andrea Sprenger-von Siebenthal and Markus Sprenger run a big family hotel in the village of Sannenmöser. Long known as Les Hauts de Gstaad and Spa, it also goes by the name Golfhotel and is gradually building a solid reputation for excellent food using fresh local produce.
The quality is unsurpassed, largely due to the efforts of head chef Joachim van Vlasselaer and pastry chef Fabien Larcopage. Beef, lamb, veal and wild boar comes from regional suppliers, fruit and vegetable is seasonal, fish is from mountain lakes and their alpine cheese comes from two small farmers further along the valley.
Simmentaler cows, who graze alpine flora, produce cheese and milk with a depth of
flavour that is distinctly alpine. Markus calls it a ‘feeling,’ and you can taste that feeling when you eat their alpkäse and sample the cultured butter Joachim makes fresh in his kitchen.
His ‘plain’ butter is a melt-in-the-mouth experience that lingers and remains unforgettable. He also makes a beetroot butter and a herb butter. We haven’t mentioned the boletus mushrooms they served as a mousse and as a soup. The flavour is so strong you can still taste the forest.
Then there’s Andrea’s Sunday bread known as butterzöpfe.
RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH
When rice and wine met in a glorious expression of the local produce of Verona.
FRICOT FOOD-TRAVEL NARRATIVES
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
We are on the outskirts of Hayıroğlu village trying to imagine what it was like to live here 10,500 years ago. This is the western edge of the Konya Plain in south-central Anatolia, roughly 250 kilometres from the Mediterranean coast. It is a steppe landscape, a patchwork quilt of fields designed for agriculture and pasture, crucial to an indigenous food culture that is being reshaped as we speak.
Indigenous produce | artisanal products | traditional recipes … with news, features, interviews and stories about Europe’s traditional food culture, including reviews of fairs, festivals and markets, cafes, diners and restaurants, cookery, food and recipe books, descriptions of local produce and value-added products, profiles of artisans and producers, bakers and specialists, cooks and chefs — creative sustainable food security for the 21st century … the FRICOT PROJECT