Tag: Veal

Legendary Dishes | Marengo Viande de Veau (veal in garlic, tomato and wine sauce)

FRANCE

Chef Dunand‘s original creation for Napoleon Bonaparte after the battle of Marengo in 1800 involved a jointed chicken fried in oil, finished in a delicious brandy, garlic and tomato sauce. Over the years, white wine replaced brandy, onions were added, and veal joined chicken as the choice of meat.

2 kg veal from shoulder, cubed
1 kg tomatoes, peeled, chopped
240 g onions, chopped
200 ml white wine
150 ml water
125 ml olive oil, for frying
12 garlic cloves, crushed
1 bay leaf
1 rosemary sprig
1 thyme sprig
Salt, pinch
Parsley, for garnish

In a large saucepan sauté garlic and onions in half of the oil, about two minutes.

Add water, tomatoes and salt, cook over a medium heat for 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft and most of the liquid has evaporated..

Brown veal in a separate pan in remaining oil, add to sauce.

De-glaze pan with wine and add to sauce, cover, simmer for an hour.

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FOOD STORIES | The Goulash Story in Five Recipes

Belgium | France | Hungary | Liechtenstein | Luxembourg | Netherlands | Romania

1: Kalbsrahmgulasch LIECHTENSTEIN creamy veal stew

This is the meat stew most people believe is goulash. It is a dish that became popular during the Austro-Hungarian era, now a traditional dish in Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein. Beef shoulder can be used as a substitute. This is an adaptation of the recipe by chef Christian Helmreich at Restaurant Engel in Vaduz. This stew is generally served with the small dumplings known as spätzle.

1 kg veal shoulder, 4 cm cubed
500 ml veal stock / beer
375 g onions, sliced
150 ml double cream / crème fraîche
150 ml white wine
125 g long red peppers, sliced
100 g sweet apple purée
60 ml rapeseed oil
20 g sweet paprika powder
15 ml lemon juice
15 g tomato paste
1 garlic clove, crushed, mashed
10 peppercorns, crushed
6 juniper berries, crushed
2 bay leaves
Salt, large pinch

Fry onions, peppers and garlic in half of the oil for five minutes over a high heat, reduce heat, cover and sweat for 30 minutes. Place onion-pepper mixture in an ovenproof pot, add paprika powder, tomato paste, apple purée, crushed spices and bay leaves. Heat gently for five minutes. Deglaze frying pan with the wine, add contents to the pot. Brown veal cubes in remaining oil, set aside with a slotted spoon, deglaze pan with some of the stock. Add the stock from the pan and remaining stock to the pot. Add the meat and bring to a low boil, add lemon juice and seasonings. Transfer to oven. Bake, uncovered in the middle of the oven, at 160ºC for 100 minutes, add cream and finish at 140ºC for 20 minutes.

2: Tokány ROMANIA paprika stew

This is the original meat and paprika stew. Vladimir Mirodan says it was brought south to Bucharest by young Transylvanian girls in search of services and fortune. The kidneys can be from calves, lambs or pigs. The marjoram, mushrooms, paprika and sour cream are essential. Without them it does not have the distinctive flavour that make it one of the region‘s most popular traditional dishes. This is an adaptation from Károly Gundel’s Hungarian Cookery Book.

500 g mushrooms, sliced
350 g beef, cut into strips
350 g pork, cut into strips
350 g pork kidney, blanched, cut into strips
300 g sour cream
200 ml water
150 g onions, chopped small
150 g smoked bacon, cubed
60 g sunflower oil
6 garlic cloves, crushed
30 g hot paprika
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp mild paprika
5 g marjoram
Salt, two large pinches

Sauté onions in oil in a large frying pan over a low heat for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, add hot paprika, allow to soak in. Put pan back on heat, add beef, garlic, marjoram and seasonings, sauté until beef is brown. Add half the water, simmer for 10 minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Add pork, brown, simmer for 10 minutes in remaining water. In a separate frying pan sauté bacon and kidneys over a medium heat. When the kidneys are cooked add mushrooms and seasonings, cook for five minutes. Pour contents of bacon pan into beef pan, simmer for ten minutes, add mild paprika, then the cream and bring to a low boil. The aroma from this stew deters night creatures, so heavy with the garlic.

3: Carbonnades Flamandes / Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze BELGIUM FLANDERS FRANCE LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS beef and beer stew

The western goulash, a sweet slightly acidic traditional dish of the low countries centred on Flanders. Chimay and Rodenbach are the preferred traditional beers for this iconic dish. Leffe Brune is acceptable. Stale bread spread with mustard was the traditional method of thickening the liquid, now gingerbread with its subtle spice flavours is used.

2 kg brisket / shoulder beef, cut into 3 cm pieces, seasoned
1 litre beef stock
600 g onions, sliced
375 ml dark brown beer 
250 g fatty bacon, cubed
2 slices gingerbread bread / white bread, 
crusts removed, spread with mustard
60 g butter
30 g brown sugar
30 g white wheat flour
30 g mustard
30 ml olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 g salt
10 black peppercorns
5 g black pepper, freshly ground
5 juniper berries, crushed
Green peppercorns, large pinch
4 sprigs thyme
1 sprig rosemary 
2 bay leaves

Brown beef in half the butter and oil in a large heavy-based pot over a medium heat in batches, remove and set aside. Add remaining butter and oil to pan, turn heat to low and sauté the bacon for five minutes, then the onions for 15 minutes. Stir the flour into the onions and brown lightly. Deglaze the pan with three tablespoons of stock, then pour in remaining stock with the beer and herbs and juniper berries. Bring slowly to the boil. Add the beef, then, if using, place the mustard bread on top, mustard side down or add the gingerbread and mustard. Add the garlic, black peppercorns and seasonings, turn heat to low to medium, and simmer for two and a half hours, stirring occasionally during second hour. Sweeten with sugar and cook for 30 minutes uncovered. Season, serve with pasta or potatoes, chipped or mashed.

4: Bogracsgulyás HUNGARY kettle stew

A traditional dish of the steppes, the essential ingredient was meat dried on the saddle. The Magyars added the meat to a large pot of water, then finished the dish with the addition of dumplings or root vegetables, heavily spiced with paprika.

1.5 kg beef, 2 cm cubed
1.5 kg floury potatoes, peeled, 2 cm cubed
1.5 litres water 
500 g onions, sliced 
250 g fatty pork belly, cubed small 
30 g Szeged sweet paprika 
10 g Szeged hot paprika 
Seasonings

Fry pork over low heat in a large pot until the fat begins to separate and the meat turns crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, set aside. Fry onions in fat over a high heat, about five minutes, remove and set aside. Brown beef, return the onions to the pot with the water, bring to the boil. Add the sweet paprika, cover and simmer for an hour. Carefully slip the potatoes into the pot, bring back to the boil, reduce heat to low, season, cover, leave for 20 minutes. Sprinkle half of the hot paprika on top of the stew, leave uncovered for five minutes. Serve in deep bowls, adding a pinch of hot paprika to each dish, a chunk of bread on the side to mop up the juices.

5: FOOD CITIES OF EUROPE BUDAPEST and Gulyás

Buda and Pest are among the few centres of civilisation in Europe where the peasant culture is still reflected in the choice of traditional foods available in restaurants. In Budapest soups start every meal, and most of the time that meal is a stew. The exception is gulyásleves, the beef soup known as goulash. It is often served as a main course accompanied with egg-flour noddles. Kéhli, one of the city’s oldest restaurants, specialises in traditional food including bean, beef, chicken and fish soups and the range of stews. Sípos Halászkert serves a diverse range of fish soups.

1.5 litre of water
900 g beef, cubed 2 cm
500 g potatoes, diced small
500 g onions, chopped
300 g parsnip / turnip, diced
300 g tomatoes
250 g carrots, diced
250 g green or red peppers
100 g celery, cut small
30 g lovage leaves
4 garlic cloves, mashed
10 g paprika, hot or sweet
5 g caraway seeds
2 bay leaves
black pepper, pinch
salt, pinch
Oil, for frying

Sauté the onions in the oil for 30 minutes, increase heat and brown the beef. Reduce heat, stir in the tomatoes and peppers, add the garlic and cover. Leave to simmer for 30 minutes. Add the bay leaves, caraway seeds and paprika. After five minutes add the vegetables, remaining seasonings and water. Cook until the potatoes are al dente.


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Legendary Dishes | Kalbsrahmgulasch mit Sauerrahmspätzle (creamy veal stew with sour cream dumplings)

LIECHTENSTEIN

This is the meat stew most people believe is goulash. It is a dish that became popular during from the Austro-Hungarian era, now a traditional dish in Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein. Beef shoulder can be used as a substitute. This is an adaptation of the recipe by chef Christian Helmreich at Restaurant Engel in Vaduz.

See The Story of Goulash in Five Recipes.

1 kg veal shoulder, 4 cm cubed
500 ml veal stock
375 g onions, sliced
250 g long red peppers, sliced
150 ml double cream / crème fraîche
150 ml white wine
100 g sweet apple purée
60 ml rapeseed oil
30 g dried cep mushrooms, soaked in hot water, chopped small
20 g sweet paprika powder
15 ml lemon juice
15 g tomato paste
1 garlic clove, crushed, mashed
10 peppercorns, crushed
6 juniper berries, crushed
2 bay leaves
Salt, large pinch

Fry onions, peppers and garlic in half of the oil for five minutes over a high heat, reduce heat, cover and sweat for 30 minutes. Place onion-pepper mixture in an ovenproof pot, add paprika powder, tomato paste, apple purée, crushed spices and bay leaves. Heat gently for five minutes. Deglaze frying pan with the wine, add contents to the pot. Brown veal cubes in remaining oil, set aside with a slotted spoon, deglaze pan with some of the stock. Add the stock from the pan and remaining stock to the pot. Add the meat and bring to a low boil, add lemon juice, mushrooms and seasonings. Transfer to oven. Bake, uncovered in the middle of the oven, at 160ºC for 100 minutes, add cream and finish at 140ºC for 20 minutes.

Spätzle
500 g flour
4 eggs
200 g sour cream
15 g salt
Bunch of chives, chopped small
Butter (optional)
Milk (optional)

Mix eggs, sour cream and salt. Add the flour and mix to a smooth dough. Add some milk if necessary. Pour the dough through a boiling sieve into boiling salt water. Remove after two minutes, quench in cold water. Sprinkle the spaetzle in the butter and place on the plate with the veal cream goulash. Garnish with cream and chives.

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Legendary Dishes | Empanadas (large pies)

SPAIN | ARGENTINA

This quantity makes four large half-moon crimped pies.

Dough
300 g white wheat flour
60 g butter
60 ml milk, lukewarm
1 egg
45 ml olive oil
15 g yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg, whisked, for wash

Dissolve the yeast in the milk. Sieve flour into a large bowl, add salt, the egg, butter and olive oil. Work the mixture to form a crumble, add yeast mixture, knead into a soft smooth dough. Leave to rise for an hour, degas.

Filling – Meat
1 litre water, boiling
500 g beef / veal, minced
500 g onions, sliced thin
2 eggs, hard-boiled, chopped into small pieces
30 ml vegetable oil
5 g black pepper
5 g red chillies, chopped
Salt, large pinch

Sauté onions and chillies in oil over a low heat for about 15 minutes. Pour the hot water over the meat, strain.

Filling – Vegetable
350 g potatoes, cooked, cut into large pieces
100 g carrot, grated
100 g green peas
50 g onions, puréed
2 (2 x @ 100 g) long red peppers, sliced
15 ml olive oil
15 g sweet paprika
5 g hot smoked paprika
Black pepper, large pinch
Salt, large pinch

Heat the oil over a high heat, add red peppers, cook until they begin to soften, add the carrots. Cook for five minutes, add the onion purée, the hot paprika and half of the sweet paprika. Reduce heat, cook through, about three minutes. Spoon the mixture into a bowl, add the peas and potatoes, seasonings and remaining sweet paprika, leave to cool. Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Roll first piece into a 20 cm round, place a quarter of the filling on the round, fold over and crimp. Place on a baking tray covered with greaseproof paper. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Coat each pie with an egg wash. Leave for 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 210ºC. Bake for 30 minutes.

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Legendary Dishes | Cappelletti in Brodo (small savoury parcels in beef broth)

SAN MARINO 

Broth
3 litres water
1 kg beef chuck / neck, cut into pieces
1 kg veal bones
500 g beef bones with marrow
500 onions, chopped
125 g carrot, chopped
12 parsley stalks
2 celery stalks
Seasonings
Filling
125 g pecorino cheese, grated
100 g chicken breast, cubed
100 g pork loin, cubed
50 g pork belly, cubed small
50 g prosciutto ham, cut into pieces
2 eggs
2 garlic cloves
4 rosemary spears
4 sage leaves
Nutmeg, very large pinch
Seasonings
Pasta
300 g white durum wheat flour, t00
3-4 eggs

For the broth place all ingredients in a large pot with sufficient water to cover, gradually bring to a rolling boil. Remove scum that rises to the surface, reduce heat and simmer for three hours, strain (use about 350 ml per diner), freeze the unused broth, keep the meat for other uses. Pour flour onto a clean work surface, break eggs into the centre of the flour, work with a fork into a loose dough. Roll into a ball, set aside, covered, for 30 minutes. Sauté pork belly in a hot frying pan until the fat is released, add garlic, pork loin and chicken. Add the rosemary and sage, sauté for two minutes, leave to cool. Spoon this mixture into a bowl, add the prosciutto, pecorino, nutmeg, eggs and seasonings. Blend in a food processor, taste and adjust seasoning. Form the mixture into small balls about the size of a teaspoon. On a floured surface roll out and then stretch the dough thin. Using a glass with a 6 cm diameter cut rounds in the dough. Place the balls in the centre of the rounds, fold over, seal and twist edges together to form little hats (cappelletti). Heat the broth, add cappelletti and bring to a boil, cook for five minutes until it rises to the surface.

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Culinary Connections | Italy Latvia Lithuania

Meat Rolls

 

PorkRoll
Breaded Pork Roll

 

 

Cūkgaļas Rulete – 1

 

2 kg pork belly/shoulder with skin
200 g mushrooms, quartered, sliced
150 g onions, chopped
100 g carrots, grated
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp paprika flakes
1 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tsp thyme
Salt, large pinch
Oil, for frying
Thread, for tying

 

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Sauté onions in oil over a medium heat for ten minutes, add mushroom, cook until they wilt and residue liquid has evaporated. Leave to cool.

Cut a third of the skin from the pork, set aside.

Score skin into 2cm strips.

Turn pork onto its skin side and beat out the meat without the skin, season with chilli, paprika, pepper and salt.

Spread carrots over the central area, followed by the mushroom-onion mixture, season with pepper and thyme.

Roll the pork tightly starting with the end without skin, secure with four ties.

Sprinkle coarse salt on skin, pushing into the cracks.

Roast for 25 minutes, turn down down 175°C for 50 minutes, turn heat up to 190°C for 30 minutes.

Rest for 30 minutes before slicing.

Serve with mashed potatoes.

 

Cūkgaļas Rulete – 2

 

2 kg pork shoulder
200 g sweet pepper, chopped
150 g onions, chopped
100 g carrots, grated
50 g prunes, stoned, chopped
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp paprika flakes
Salt, large pinch
Oil, for frying
Thread, for tying

 

Flatten shoulder into a long wide rectangular shape, season with chillies, paprika, pepper and salt.

Sauté onions in oil over a medium heat for 15 minutes, add peppers and cook for five minutes until soft.

Combine onion-pepper mix with carrots and prunes. Spread on meat, roll tightly, secure with four ties.

Simmer roll in broth for three hours.

Take out and leave to rest for 30 minutes, remove string, cut into slices.

 

Involtini di Vitello alla Milanese

 

Stock
750 ml water
150 g carrots
150 g onions
30 g peperoncino
15 g black peppercorns
1 sprig rosemary
4 sprigs thyme

Filling
100 g chicken/veal liver, chopped finely
60 g pecorino, grated
1 egg yolk
25 g parsley, chopped finely
3 cloves garlic, crushed, chopped finely
15 g black pepper, freshly ground

Rolls
8 (x 60 g) small veal escalopes, flattened
600 ml spicy broth
8 slices prosciutto
8 sage leaves
Salt, pinch
Pepper, pinch
Butter, for frying
Flour, for dusting
Oil, for frying

 

Boil then simmer carrots, onions, peperoncino and peppercorns in water for two hours, strain and keep warm.

Mix the egg yolk, garlic, parsley, pecorino, liver and pepper into a thick paste.

Season escalopes, spread with filling.

Roll, then wrap with a slice of prosciutto, placing a sage leaf between the ham and veal.

Dust in flour, set aside.

Gently heat butter and oil in a wide saucepan.

Sauté the rolls in the butter-oil, browning all sides.

Deglaze saucepan with broth, add rosemary and thyme.

Cover and poach over a low heat for 20 minutes.

 

Veršienos Suktinukai

 

4 veal fillets
250 g cottage cheese
30 g almonds, crushed
20 g butter
15 g mayonnaise
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp parsley, chopped
1 egg, beaten
breadcrumbs
Oil, for frying

 

Lay a fillet on a clean work surface, place a sheet of clingfilm on top and using a roller gently beat the fillet to flatten it, repeat the action.

Season flattened fillets, and spread each one with a half teaspoon of mayonnaise.

Leave for 30 minutes in the fridge.

Crush cheese in a large bowl, add butter, garlic and parsley, season with salt and mix thoroughly.

Spread the cheese mixture on the fillets, sprinkle almonds on top and twist into rolls.

Put the egg in a wide soup plate, the breadcrumbs in another.

Preheat oven to 190°C.

Dip a rolled fillet in the egg, then the breadcrumbs, repeat and set aside.

Over a medium heat brown the fillets.

Place fillets on a greased baking tray.

Bake for 20 minutes.


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Ingredient | Beef | Veal

HornedCow-low-res

The quality of beef varies considerably across Europe, so much that artisan production favours a slower approach to the raising and slaughtering of animals.

Traditional dishes made from beef cuts rely on good meat, to the extent that it is no longer expedient to dispose of bad meat in soups and stews, and especially in dishes that call for ground and minced meat.

The rule is that hindquarter cuts (fillet, flank, loin, round, rump, sirloin, silverside, steak, tranche) provide the best meat for fast cooking. Forequarter cuts (blade, brisket, chuck, neck, plate, rib, rolled rib, shin) are used for slow cooking.

Good beef should be well matured, firm to the touch, bright red, marbled and fat-scored, and give off a sweet aroma.

It should come from animals that have been allowed to graze on natural grasses and herbs, and have not been slaughtered at less than 36 months old, later if possible.

Ground and minced meat should be lean with a minimum of fat.

Stewing beef can come from the leg, neck and shank.

Beef for roasting will be fillet, loin, rolled rib and rump.

Steak meat generally will be sirloin.

Recipes that call for thin slices of meat to be fried, grilled or baked ideally should come from the much younger animal, which is the tradition in most central and southern European countries, especially in Italy.

This is veal, which comes from calves slaughtered between six and eleven months old, particularly from milk-fed, hormone-free animals. If they have been put on a special diet the veal will be of a high quality. It will be pinkish with white fat and smell milky.

Many of the classic traditional dishes of Europe are made with veal.

Escalopes, used in Cordon Bleu, Fleischgeschnetzeltes und Champignonrahnsause and Schnitzel, should come from the fillet, hind leg, loin, lower neck and rump, preferably the top end of the hind leg.

In south-eastern Europe and the Balkans veal is preferred in stews that require less cooking time.

 

Espetada Madeirense

 

carne7
Arouquesa Beef

The Portuguese take the quality of their beef very seriously, to the extent that it might be considered the best in Europe.

The Barrosa, Maronesa and Mirandesa breeds raised in the Barroso marshes produce a dark red meat that is succulent and tender, while beef from the Alentejana and Arouquesa breeds is perfect for the types of meat dishes the Portuguese covet.

One such dish is so popular it is attracting food lovers to the Madeira archipelago. Yet it is nothing more than skewered cubes of beef coated in crushed bay, garlic and sea salt grilled over hot embers.

Nothing more?

Nothing less than mature loin meat cut into 4 cm cubes.

Nothing less than fresh garlic.

Nothing less than unblemished bay leaves.

Nothing less than flôr de sal.

And nothing less than a smokeless fire (or a hot grill)!

 

1 kg beef fillet/loin/sirloin, cubed
3 garlic bulbs, crushed
10 g flôr de sal or coarse sea salt
10 bay leaves, crushed
Olive oil

 

Coat the cubes in the oil, followed by the bay and garlic. Pierce the cubes with a metal skewer or, if available, a sharp bay stick.

Spread the salt on a plate and roll the skewered meat in the salt.

Suspend the skewers over a hot fire, made with seasoned wood, or under a hot grill on a tray to collect the juices.

When the meat starts to brown, turn and repeat until a crust has formed, about ten minutes depending on the heat.

Shake off the salt, serve with a salad and piri piri sauce or with roasted vegetables.

 

Cordon Bleu

 

Cordon Bleu, breaded veal steak with cheese and ham, is one of Switzerland’s iconic dishes, insanely popular with the Swiss since the mid-1900s.

Wrapping a thin slice of meat with cheese and ham is an idea that was developed in different regions of Europe at different times.

The Swiss generously don’t wish to claim it as one of their own, content to believe its beginnings are old, and varied.

One version suggests a Brig chef found his restaurant filled to the brim one lunchtime. With only enough meat to feed half the hungry hoards he improvised.

He cut a veal loin into sixty pieces, created a cheese and ham envelope, breaded and fried them, astounding the guests with this new dish.

Centuries later its popularity continues to increase, selling upwards of 10,000 tons each year in Switzerland, preserving its status as a blue ribbon food.

 

520 g (8 x 65 g) veal, topside of leg
4 slices (4 x 40 g) ham
4 slices (4 x 60 g) Emmenthal/Gruyère
60 g flour
100 g breadcrumbs
1 egg
15 ml clarified butter
Salt, pinch
Pepper, pinch
2 lemons, quartered

Preheat oven to 80°C.

Cut veal into eight equal pieces. Take a piece of cling film, place over a cutlet and with a baking roller flatten it, about 2-3mm thin, season with salt and pepper.

Cut ham and cheese into slices that will sit inside each cutlet, trimmed if necessary, they must not overlap. Top the filling with another cutlet, pound the edges together.

Brush with some of the beaten egg to complete the seal.

Gently dust each cutlet with flour, dip in egg and coat with breadcrumbs.

Brown in butter, four minutes each side, transfer to ovenproof dish keeping them separate, bake for 15 minutes.

Serve with French fries or boiled potatoes, green salad and two lemon wedges per person.

 

Saltimbocca

 

Always associated with Rome, this is another interpretation on the veal-ham theme, the sage an exquisite touch. Make sure the leaves are fresh and pale green young.

 

480 g veal, loin or lean piece
16 slices prosciutto
16 sage leaves
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
Butter, for frying
Olive oil, for frying
White wine, for finishing (optional)

 

Cut the veal into 30 g pieces, flatten, season and place one sage leaf on each piece.

Lay a slice of prosciutto on top of the veal, roll tightly and secure with a toothpick.

Melt the butter with the oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat, sauté until each roll is golden brown.

For a different twist on veal rolls see Involtini di Vitello alla Milanese in Latvia.

 

Veau Marengo

 

Chef Dunand’s original creation for Napoleon Bonaparte after the battle of Marengo involved a jointed chicken fried in oil, finished in a sauce made with brandy, garlic, tomatoes and water.

Over the years the sauce became synonymous with sieved tomatoes, white wine replaced brandy, mushrooms and onions were added, and veal joined chicken as the choice of meat.

Cubes of shoulder veal flash-fried in hot oil and simmered in Marengo sauce give this dish a distinctive flavour.

 

1 kg veal, shoulder, cubed
500 g mushrooms, chopped
500 g tomato passata
450 g onions, chopped
400 ml water
125 ml olive oil, for frying
50 ml brandy/white wine
45 g flour
5 g fresh oregano, whole leaves
1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
Mixed pepper, large pinch
Salt, pinch

 

In a deep, wide saucepan fry onion in half of the oil, sauté over low heat until brown, about 20 minutes.

Sprinkle with flour, add water, passata, seasonings and half of the oregano, reduce over a medium heat for 20 minutes, until the sauce is thick.

Brown veal in stages in remaining oil, add to sauce, deglaze pan with brandy or wine and add to sauce, cover, simmer over a low heat for 30 minutes.

Add mushrooms, cover again, cook for 15 minutes.

Cut remaining oregano, stir into sauce.

 

Vitello Tonnato

Pellegrino Artusi refers to a method where the anchovy, caper and tuna sauce that is the essential element of this cold dish becomes a marinade, infusing the sliced cooked veal with pungent flavours.

 

1 kg veal, rump, whole
3 carrots, peeled, whole
3 parsley roots, scrubbed, whole
3 stalks celery, whole
1 onion, peeled, whole
100 g tinned tuna, minced
2 lemons, juice
50 ml olive oil
25 g capers, minced
8 anchovy fillets
4 cloves
2 bay leaves
Salt, large pinch
Water, for cooking
String, for tying

Make four deep cuts in the centre of the veal, push an anchovy into each one, tie meat together.

Stud onion with cloves.

Place the veal in a large saucepan with the bay leaves, carrots, celery, onion, parsley and salt, cover with sufficient water and bring to the boil.

Simmer covered for 45 minutes, until meat is tender, soft to the touch and not tough.

When the veal has cooled, untie the string and cut into thin slices.

Mince the remaining anchovies with the capers and tuna, pour in the lemon juice and olive oil to make a thin sauce. Use as much oil as necessary.

Serve the veal with the tuna sauce, with soft white bread.

Alternatively marinade the meat in the sauce for eight hours, bring up to room temperature, then serve.

Salsa Tonnata is another version of this sauce.

 

Farshirovannaja Teljatina

 

If Cordon Bleu is typically Swiss, Farshirovannaja Teljatina is typically Russian.

Stuffed veal dishes in Russia cross the gamut of traditional food.

This is a small loaf, made with an egg, garlic, minced meat and spinach stuffing.

 

1 kg veal, fillet
200 g pork mince
200 g spinach, whole leaves
200 ml vegetable stock
150 g beef mince
100 ml white wine 
1 egg, beaten
2 cloves garlic, crushed, chopped
25 g black pepper, freshly ground
Salt, large pinch
Sunflower oil, for greasing
String, for tying

 

Boil the spinach in sufficient water to cover until it wilts, about three minutes, leave to cool, then chop into a purée.

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Combine the minced meat in a bowl, work with hands until the fat begins to separate. Add garlic and spinach, stir in the egg, season.

Flatten veal into a long rectangular shape, spread with meat-spinach mixture, roll tightly and fasten with four ties.

Grind black pepper onto a clean work surface, roll loaf in the pepper until it is even coated.

Grease a baking tray, fill with stock and wine, place loaf in the liquid and bake for an hour.

 

Traditional Beef and Veal Dishes

 

Swiss Air-Dried Beef

Carbonnades Flamandes/Stoofvlees-Beef (Belguim, France, Luxembourg, Netherlands)

Ćevapčići (Serbia)

Jautienos Suktinukai (Lithuania)

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding (England)

Slavinken (Netherlands)


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