TGEFA Working Itinerary & Route
There will be 250 essay sections plus 250 recipe sections in TGEFA. This is a working list of the essay sections and at the moment it is outrageously unbalanced. Ireland, for example, has more than Ukraine, a much larger country, so Ireland will lose several essays and Ukraine will gain several. The final list will be agreed in 2021 before the mss is paginated.
A Note about TGEFA
Our great European food adventure began a very long time ago. It was our original intention to plan a route and make a continuous non-stop journey to all the major cities with a three-day stay in each place, and for a while it was a plausible plan. Then we added up all the stops and all the days and we realised it was impractical, so we came to a pragmatic conclusion based on a rail (train and tram) and road (bus) strategy. Visa issues, border crossings and bad weather wrecked the first mad journeys in the later years of the 1990s and early years of the 2000s. We decided to make a new plan.
That involved short trips with a definitive itinerary. For more than 20 years we criss-crossed the continent although mostly we decided on a base and took day trips. For example we stayed in Verona for 14 days and made trips around the region, up into the Alps to Bolzano / Bozen and down into the Po Valley to Borghetto sul Mincio, and became acquainted with the traditional food culture. Some of the material from that trip is featured in FF, vis:
Verona | Osteria Morandin and Traditional Veronese Food
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
Verona | Antica Bottega del Vino and Traditional Veronese Food and Wine
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
Borghetto sul Mincio | Village over Water, Templar Tavern, Love Knots (tortellini – filled pasta)
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
Verona | 10 Traditional Dishes
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
Bolzano / Bozen | The Food of Ötzi the Iceman
THE GREAT EUROPEAN FOOD ADVENTURE
More TGEFA Journeys
These are the current plans, on hold for a while.
Aegean — Turkey and Greece including Bodrum, Kos, Rhodes, Heraklion, Santorini, Naxos, Tourlos Mykonos, Agios Kirykos, Chios, Çeşme, Izmir, Istanbul mostly by boat, plus some buses and trains.
Anatolia — Turkey including Istanbul, Ankara, Kayseri, Kars, Adana, Konya, Bodrum (Kos-Çeşme), Izmir, Istanbul, mostly by train with the Aegean trip attached.
Atlantic Fringe — Scotland, Shetland, Faroes, Iceland, Greenland, Norway, Sweden, mostly by boat, some flights, and some trains and buses.
Baltic — Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Germany including Copenhagen, Malmo, Stockholm, Lapland, Oulu, Helsinki, St Petersburg, Tallinn, Riga, Vilinus, Kalingrad, Gdansk, Rostock, Hamburg, Copenhagen mostly by train, some flights and the odd bus and boat.
Steppe — Poland, Belarus, Ukraine, Moldova including Warsaw, Minsk, Kiev, Kharkiv, Odessa, Chisinau, Lviv, Lublin, Wrocław, Warsaw mostly by train.
1: Vincennes: Rendezvous with Rousseau food philosophies, fabulous trees and forager food
2: Dinant: The Flamiche Legend featuring Flamiche {cheese custard pie}
3: North Sea: Fishing, Waterzooi {fish soup} story and tradition
4: Amiens: The Terrine Tradition and story featuring Pâté de Canard d’Amiens {duck paste}
5: Port-en-Bessin-Huppain: A Feast of Scallops, Scallop Festival featuring scallop tradition and story
6: Auvergne: Asterix and the Wild Boar, wild boar / suckling pig / spit-roasted pork story and tradition, the emergence of charcuterie – bacon, ham and sausage culture. The eleventh album of the comic book series ‘Asterix and the Chieftain’s Shield’, published in 1968, saw René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo depict cured hams hanging from the ceiling of an Auvergne inn.
7: Limoges: Clafoutis tradition and story featuring Clafoutis de Fromage aux Fruit {cake with cheese and cherries}
8: Haute Savoy: In Farcement We Trust, Farcement {bacon, dried fruit, potato, spices cake} tradition and story
9: Lausanne-Flon: Café Romand and The Farm Shop of Vaud, indigenous produce, value-added products featuring Farines Vaudoises d’Yverdon-les-Bains {flours}, Flûtes Vaudoises {bread sticks}, Pâté Vaudois {pork pies}, Saucisse aux choux Vaudoise {white cabbage sausage}, Viandes Séchées Vaudoise {dried meat}, tradition and story
10: Lavaux: Food Heritage featuring Domain Bovy, hard cheese and the wines of Lake Geneva shore
11: Vevey: Charlie Chaplin’s shoes are made of chocolate, chocolate story part one
11-Fully and Martigny: Brisolée {autumn harvest buffet with chestnuts, cheese, fruit and wine}
12: Saanen: 16 ART-BAR-RESTAURANT featuring local veal
13: Gstaad: Cheese Shop / Cheese Grotto Berner Oberland cheeses featuring Alpkäse, Hobelkäse and Bleu de Lenk, Etivaz, Geräuchert, Livarot, Reblochon, Sapolet, Schönriedeli) cheese, milk
14: Kandersteg: Butcher Shop Swiss butcher shop tradition and artisanal sausage culture, featuring Cervelas {smoked cooked assorted butcher’s meat sausage} and Dauerwürst {cured pork, beef, red wine, black pepper, coriander sausage} beef, herbs, pork
15: Brig: Restaurant Cheminots featuring Cordon Bleu {veal escalope}, tradition and story, beef, cheese, milk, rye flour
16: Fiesch: Imwinkelried Bakery & Cafe featuring regional rye bread tradition, rye bread story part one, Walliser Roggenbrot {sourdough rye bread}
17: Goms Valley: Subsistence Food featuring Cholera {pie with apples, cheese, leeks, onions and potatoes}, apples, leeks, onions, potatoes
18: Divedro & Ossola Valleys: Cauldron Stew Tradition featuring Cuchêla {cabbage, onions, herbs, potatoes, pork belly-ribs-salami-sausages}, cabbage, cheese, milk, onions, potatoes, pork, wine
19: Domodossola: Street Market local, regional and national produce and products / Italian street market tradition
19-Milan: Panettone {fruit bread} story and tradition
20: Turin: Chocolate story of chocolate in Europe, from La Cioccolatieri {the street sellers of chocolate} in the 1800s to the chocolates made in the city today, featuring Cremino {layered nut chocolates}, Cri Cri {various coloured sweet hazelnut chocolates}, Gianduiotto {boat-shaped hazelnut chocolates}, Grappino {liquer-filled chocolates} plus Bicerin {coffee-cocoa drink} secrets, chocolate story part two
21: Recco: Flatbread Festival Foccacia, featuring di Recco col Formaggio {leavened white wheat dough with cheese and olive oil} plus the flatbread tradition of Italy including Carrarina {egg dough with dried fruit, nuts and olive oil}, Con i Friccioli (with pork crackling), Seravezzina {corn and wheat dough with garlic, herbs and olive oil}
21-Bologna: The Fat One featuring Torta Dell’abbondanza {sweet rice cake}, Crescentina {bacon bread}, Ragù {meat and vegetable sauce}, Frammenti di liquirizia {liquorice sweets} liquorice story and tradition
22: Florence: Company of the Cauldron beginnings of modern food preparation and presentation
23: Siena: Tuscan Diversity produce and products of Tuscany featuring Cantuccini {hard biscuits with chocolate / pistachio / almond pieces}, Carscenta della Lunigiana {sweet cake with pine nuts and raisins}, Castagnaccio {chestnut bread / cake}, Pane Toscano {soft wheat salt-free Tuscan bread}, Torta di riso di Massa-Carrara {caramel rice cake}
23-Marzalla honey, olive oil and wine farm
24: San Lorenzo Nuovo: Sagra degli Gnocchi featuring the potatoes of the Viterbo, and Fagiolo Secondo, a local bean responsible for food sustainability through famine and war
25: Amatrice: The Carbonara Conundrum, part one featuring Pasta all’Amatriciana {Amatrice pasta} and Pasta alla Gricia {shepherd pasta} and the origins of Spaghetti alla Carbonara {string pasta with pork / bacon and cheese}
26: Rome: The Carbonara Conundrum, part two featuring the origins of Spaghetti alla Carbonara {string pasta with pork / bacon and cheese}
26-Napoli: Pizza story and tradition
27: Cetara: Garum and Colatura anchovy / mackerel fish sauce, old and new methods
28: Capri: Limoncella di Capri {lemon liquor}, lemon story
29: Pompei: Golden Ice Gelateria Artigianale {artisan ice cream parlour} ice-cream story
30: Syracuse: The Greek Influence featuring Arancino / Arancini {filled rice balls}
31: Pozzallo: Fish Ports of Sicily featuring Calamaretti {deep fried squid}, Sarde a Beccafico {stuffed sardines} plus fishing tradition
32: Mediterranean Islands: Pasta Bake Tradition featuring Imqarrun il-forn (Malta), Makaronia Tou Fournou (Cyprus), Pastitsio (Greece and Cyprus), Timballo di Maccheroni (Italy and Malta)
33: Valletta: Bread and Christians featuring Hobz Malti {sourdough bread} and Ftira {sourdough bread topped with herrings, chopped onions, garlic, cod, oil, parsley / thin sliced potatoes, curd cheese/ anchovy, tomatoes, onions and basil, sliced potatoes / whitebait rolled in flour, sweet marjoram, sliced onions, spearmint / lightly fried onions, garlic, ripe tomatoes
34: Palermo: Teenage Kicks featuring Focaccia Panino / Focaccia Farcite {flatbread filled with cheese / cheese and ham / spinach and tomatoes / date syrup and apricots}
35: Messina Strait: The Swordfish Dilemma featuring Spada (swordfish) conservation
36: Bari: Orecchiette alle Cime di Rapa {ear-shaped pasta with green sauce, breadcrumbed anchovies and cheese}, story of one of Italy’s most popular traditional dishes
37: Forlimpopoli: The Artusi Effect featuring Pellegrino Artusi, Italy’s culinary unifier with his Science in the Kitchen cookbook
38: Adria: Bread Bin featuring Arnaldo Cavallari and the origins of Ciabatta {slipper bread} and the consequences of revisionism
39: Mantua: Cornmeal and Pellagra, the Caprese Doctor and the Saving of the Songbirds featuring polenta {cornmeal mash}, illness and death, Axel Munthe and the protection of songbirds and that recipe Polenta e Uccelli {cornmeal and spit-roasted songbirds}
40: Verona: Bottega del Vino featuring Veronese traditional food and wine including Nadalin di Verona {star-shaped sweet biscuits}, Pasta e Fasoi {beans in aromatic tomato sauce}, Pastissada di Caval {horse meat stew}, Risotto all’Amarone {rice in red wine}, Risotto al Tastasal {rice with seasoned ground pork}, Salsa Pearà {beef broth, beef marrow and breadcrumb sauce}, Tortellini di Valeggio {pasta dough filled with beef, pork, veal, carrots, onions, chicken livers, dry-cured ham, cheese, rosemary, sage, pepper, nutmeg, salt cooked in butter} plus Amarone, Valpolicella Classico and Valpolicella Ripasso wines
40: Borghetto sul Mincio: village over water featuring the Templar Tavern and Love Knots (tortellini – filled pasta) story
41: Trentino Alto Adige: Knödel Geschichte dumpling story and tradition of Austria and Germany featuring Apfelknödel {apple dumplings}, Bärlauchknödel {wild garlic dumplings}, Grießknödel {cornmeal}, Kartoffelknödel {potato dumplings}, Leberknödel {liver}, Marillenknödel {apricot}, Nussbröselknödel {nut and breadcrumb dumplings}, Rauchfleischknödel {smoked meat dumplings}, Semmelknödel {bread dumplings}, Speckknödel {bacon}, Spinatknödel {spinach}, Topfenknödel {curd cheese} plus the Canederli al Tastasal {bread, bacon, cheese and pork dumplings} of the South Tyrol
42: Tisen: The Deer Hunter featuring Ötzi the iceman and the Eintöpf {pot stew} story and tradition
43-Innsbruck: Altweiner Apfelstrudel {old-style apple strudel}, part one of strudel tradition
44: Radovljica: Gingerbread Architecture featuring the Lectar House, gingerbread culture
45: Postojna: Šara {meat and vegetable soup} featuring Europe’s potato soup tradition
46: Split: Fish Stew featuring Ribarski Brodet {stew made with beans and an assortment of Adriatic fish: bream, eel, grouper, hake, mackerel, mussels, prawns, red mullet, scarpi, squid, tuna}
46-Pag: Paški Sir featuring the sheep’s milk cheese tradition on the island of Pag in the Adriatic and the Marenda (brunch) tradition of coastal Croatia
47: Petrovac: Pašticada (sweet pot beef marinaded beef slow-cooked), festival food
48: Lake Skadar: Kormoran Restaurant featuring the lake fish and Jegulju na Orizu {roasted eels on rice}
49: Durrës: Lemon Sunshine featuring Avgolemono {egg-lemon sauce} with meat and rice balls
50: Sparta: Olive Oil Museum part one of olive story
51: Thessaloniki: Olive-Lemon Experience featuring a visit into Greek food past brought alive
52: Alexandroupolis: Ellinikoú Proinoú {Hellenic breakfast featuring assorted local cheeses including Myzithra {goat-sheep milk cheese}, cheese and spinach pie among other pies, cold meats, Kritikó Krithári (Cretan bread), egg dishes, fresh bread, fresh fruit, fresh orange juice, fresh sausages, fruit salad, honey, jams, nuts, olives, olive oil, pastries, sweets, yogurt}
53: Fatih: Grand Bazaar Food and Drink featuring Tezçakar Cafe and Cafe Life including Turkish coffee, Anatolian tea plus tea tradition, apple tea, mint tea, sage tea, Havuzlu Restaurant and Mercimek Çorbasi {Bekir Tezçakar’s lentil soup}
54: Sekerci: Lokum featuring Turkish Delight tradition at Haci Bekir
55: Eminönü: Spice Bazaar featuring spice mixtures and traditional spice culture of Anatolia
56: Beyoğlu: Street Food featuring Balık Ekmek {mackerel with bread}, fish sandwich tradition part one, chestnuts, cornhobs, midye dolma {stuffed mussels}, simit {sesame seed ring breads}
57: Üsküdar: Icli Köfte {beef, bulgar and walnut meatballs}, the Levantine Influence
58: Körtik Tepe, Göbekli Tepe, Çatalhöyük: Sustainable Food Security (Past and Present), the story of the origin foods — barley, chickpea, fava (brown) bean, lentil, pea, rye, vetch, wheat, from einkorn and emmer to modern wheat and back again, featuring wheat dishes including Aş Çorbasi {einkorn soup}
59: Gaziantep: Baklava Tradition featuring Gaziantep filo pastry with pistachios
60: Adana: Turkish Kebab Culture featuring Adana kebab, origins, history of kebab, part one
61: Konya Plain: From Foraging to Farming (the beginning of Anatolian food culture) featuring Düğün Pilavi / Riz bi Dfeen {rice with chickpeas and meat aka Wedding Rice}, chickpea story and tradition
62: Bodrum: Wild Greens featuring Hardalotu {wild mustard}, Kenker {wild thistle} Tilkisen {wild asparagus} in Böregi / Börek {filled pastry}
62-Turkish Meze Culture featuring Cacık {yoghurt with cucumbers}, Çerkez Tavuğu [Circassian-Style Chicken}, Dövme Hıyar Salatası {cheese, cucumber, onion salad}, Fellah Köftesi {bulgur-semolina patties}, Havuç Borani {grated carrots with yoghurt}, Hibeş {tahini and cumin paste}, Ispanak Borani {spinach with yoghurt}, Köpoğlu {roasted summer vegetable salad}, Közlemiş Kırmızı Biber {roasted red peppers}, Mercimek Köftesi {red lentil and bulgur patties}, Mücver {courgette fritters}, Öcce {fried herb fritters}, Şakşuka {fried aubergines and peppers with tomato sauce}, Topik {chickpea-potato balls stuffed with caramelized onions}
63: Rhodes: Doner / Gyros featuring the history of kebab culture in the Aegean, part two
64: Heraklion: Minoan Cuisine featuring the secrets of the eastern Mediterranean diet
65: Cyclades: Mezedes featuring Greek seafood appetisers and snacks
66-Cyclades: Pastries and Pies featuring Kerkyraïkí Giaourtópita {lemon yoghurt pie}, Kichí Κιχί {spiral pie}, Piperópita Pilíou {Pelion pepper pie}, Pisía Pontiaká {potato pies}, Tyrópita {cheese pie}
66: Izmir: Köfte featuring Anatolian (and Ottoman) traditions, the story of meatballs, part 1
67: Ayvalık: Open Bazaar featuring local produce and products
68: Cyprus: Mezedhes {Meze} Culture featuring Afelia {pork in red wine}, Barbouni {small red mullets}, Bourekia {cheese and spinach pies}, Halloumi {grilled cheese}, Humous {chickpea-tahini dip}, Kalamari {deep-fried squid rings}, Kappari {pickled capers}, Karaoli Yahni {snails in tomato sauce}, Keftédes {meatballs}, Koupepia {stuffed vine leaves}, lemon wedges, Loukanika {smoked sausages}, Lountza {smoked pork}, Marida {sardines}, Moungra {pickled cauliflowers}, Moussaka {layered beef and vegetable, cheese topped pie}, Octapodi Krasato {octopus in red wine}, Ofto Kleftiko {baked meat}, olives dressed in lemon, garlic, coriander seeds, herbs and olive oil, Pita {flatbread}, Ravioli {filled pasta}, salad, Sheftalia {grilled pork}, Souvlakia {grilled meat}, Stifado {beef and onion stew}, Taramosalata {smoked cod roe dip}, Talattouri {cucumber-garlic-mint-olive oil dip} plus Commandaria Wine – reintroduction of ancient wine
69: Anogyra: honey-sesame pastels festival and tradition
70: Malatya: Apricots featuring Kayısı Pestili {apricot paste}, Kayısı Reçeli {apricot jam}
71: Alacahöyük: Anatolian-Hittite Bread Turkish archaeologists produce 4000 year old menu
72: Trabzon: Bread tradition and festival featuring Vakfıkebir Ekmeği {sourdough bread}, Trabzon Pidesi {butter bread topped with ground meat}, Peynirli Pidesi {with cheese}, Hamsi Pidesi {with anchovy}, Fırın Ekmeği {barley / cornmeal / corn and wheat oven bread}, Çirihta {thin flatbread}, Ekmek Kızartması {fried bread}, Sade Fırın Pidesi {plain flatbread}
73: Balıkçılar Köyü: Black Sea Anchovy Fishing tradition and dishes including Hamsi Diblesi {with kale and rice}, Hamsi Firinda {baked anchovy}, Hamsi Köfte {anchovy balls}, Hamsi Pilav {anchovy rice}, Hamsi Tava {fried anchovy}, Hamsili Bôregi {anchovy pastry}
74: Kars: Tarhana {fermented cereal-yoghurt powder}, tradition and story
75: Mount Ararat: Basterma / Pastirma {air-dried cured beef} tradition and story
76: Tbilisi: Georgian traditional food revival with Abkhazura აფხაზური {spicy meatballs}, Adjaruli Khachapuri აჭარული ხაჭაპური {egg-topped cheese bread}, Ajapsadali აბაშადადალი {stewed vegetables}, Ajika აკაკა {spicy walnut sauce}, Kada ქადას {flaky pastry}, Kalmakhi Brotseulis Tsvenit შემწვარი კალმახი ბროწეულის წვენით {grilled trout with pomegranate juice}, Khinkali ხინკალი {peppered dumplings}
77: Yerevan: Master Chef Sedrak Mamulyan talking Armenian Food Renaissance featuring produce and products
78: Caspian Sea: Caviar Sturgeon and sustainability tradition and story
79: Qarabağ / Karabakh: Rice not Wheat Story of plov (pilaf) featuring Qubadlı Balıqlı {butter, cranberries, fish, onions, rice, salt, saffron}, Şuşa Çolpalı {cockerel, cranberry /pomegranate, onion, rice, saffron}, Şuşa Swbzi {beef, coriander, dill, fennel, leeks, lemon, onions, parsley, rice, saffron, salt, sorrel, tarragon}, Xocalı aş Qarası {apricots, chestnuts, mutton, onions, plums, prunes, raisins, turmeric}, Xocavwnd Qatıqlı aş {green beans, herbs, oil, rice, salt, yoghurt}
80: Kharkiv: Chervonyy Borsch {red stew}, borsch tradition
81: Chisinâu: Moldovan Memories food basket of eastern Europe featuring indigenous produce
82: Bălți: Platsindy {filled pies} featuring Plăcinte cu Brânză Poale-n Brâu {folded cheese pies} plus apple, cherry, curd cheese, potato, pumpkin pies tradition and story
83: Cluj-Napoca: Tokany {paprika stew} tradition and story
84: Brasov: Fasole cu Cârnaţi {beans with sausages} tradition and story
85: Ploieşti: Cozonac {bread cake with raisins / walnuts} tradition and story
86: Bucharest: Ciorbă {soup}, Ciorbă Ardelenească de Porc {with pork and tarragon}, Ciorba de Burtă (tripe), Ciorba de Fasole Boabe {beans}, Ciorba de Perisoare {sour with meatballs}, Ciorba de Potroace {potatoes}, Ciorba Rădăuțeană {chicken and vegetable}, tradition and story
87: Craiova: Mămăliguţă cu brânză şi Smântână {cornmeal with smoked bacon, curd cheese and sour cream} cornmeal with cheese and cream, cornmeal and cheese (and butter) tradition and story of the Balkans
88: Banitsa: Banitsa {cheese spiral pie} story and festival
89: Slivnitsa: White Gold of Bulgaria {white cheese}, cheese festival
90: Balkans: Ottoman Food Culture products including Böregi / Börek {filled pastries}, Ghataif / Kadaif / Kadayıf {sweet walnut pastries} among filo pastry tradition, Imam Baialdi {stuffed aubergines – fainting Imam}, Pilaf / Pilavi {rice dishes}
91: Priština: Byrek me Spinaq / Pita Zeljanica {cheese and spinach pies} tradition and story
92: Sarajevo: Lepinje {flatbread made with yoghurt} Balkan flatbread culture
93: Belgrade: Mešano Meso {mixed meat} culture featuring burgers, Cevap / Cevapcici {ground beef rissoles}, sausages
94: Srbobran: Sausage Festival story and products
95: Szeged: Paprika {sweet red pepper}, origins, tradition and story
96: Debrecen: Pot Stew tradition
97: Budapest: Kéhli Restaurant, Hungarian traditional food plus Gulyàs (goulash) story and tradition featuring reinterpretations of goulash including Bogracsgulyas {kettle stew}, Carbonnades Flamandes / Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze {beef and beer stew}, Kalbsrahmgulasch {veal stew}, Tokány {paprika stew}
97-Budapest: Street Food including lángos {fried potato flatbread with toppings}
98: Pécs: Lescó {red pepper, tomato sauce / stew}
99: Koprivnica: Vegeta {vegetable boullion}, story
100: Novigrad: Asparagus Festival story and products
101: Ljubljana: Potica {sweet nut roll bread}
102: Kobarid: Struklji {strudel} festival, part two of strudel tradition
102-Trieste: Green Salad
103: Udine: Montasio Cheese tradition and story featuring Frico con Patate e Cipolla (fried cheese with potatoes and onions}, Frico con i Ciccioli {crispy cheese and pork crackling fritters}
104: Venice: Caffè La Serra featuring Sachertorte {chocolate cake} tradition and story
104-Veneto: Fegato di Vitello alla Veneziana {veal liver in onion sauce} story
104-Venice: Carnival featuring Fritole {fruit and nut fritters}
105: Lamon: The Pope’s Bean featuring lamon bean varieties spagnolit, spagnolo, calonega and canalino, borlotti bean story plus Risotto alla Carnarola {cane gatherer’s rice with beans and sausage}
106: Isola della Scala: Rice Fair featuring rice types including Aborio, Baldo, Balilla, Carnaroli, San Andrea, Vialone Nano, risotto tradition and recipes including Risotto all’Isolana {rice with pork and veal}, risotto recipes
107: Bra: Slow Food, story
108: Menton: Lemons festival
109: Monaco-Ville: Barbagiuan Monegasque {cheese and vegetable pastries} tradition and story
110: Nice: La Fondue Niçois {anchovy, garlic and oil dressing} food connections featuring Bagna Cauda {anchovy, garlic and oil dressing} of Piedmonte
111: Provence: Jean de Florette’s Authentic featuring cheese, fish, herbs, vegetables including Poulpe a la Provençale (octopus Provence-style), Ratatouille Niçoise {summer vegetable stew}, Salad Niçoise {basil leaves, black olives, boiled eggs, cucumber, garlic, green pepper, purple artichoke hearts, white onions, tomatoes with olive oil}, Tourte au Fromage de Chevre {goat’s cheese tart}, Gâteau Citron Croustillant et Moelleux {crispy spongy lemon cake}
112: Marseille: Baccalà featuring the north Atlantic air-dried cod tradition of Italy, France, Spain and Portugal plus L’estocafic / E’stocafi {cod / stockfish stew}
113: Romans-sur-Isère: Pogne {ring-shaped brioche}, festival
114: Grabels: Ici.C.Local implementing the short chain element of sustainable food security, model, story and old street market tradition
115: Beaumont-de-Lomagne: Garlic Festival
116: Andorra: Bordas Rústicas {restaurants specialising in traditional food} featuring Canelons de Carn l’Andorràna {Andorran style meat bake}, Murgues farcides amb Carn de Porc {morels stuffed with pork sausage meat}, Pa amb Tomaquet {garlic and tomato toast}, Paletilla de Cordero Confitada {slow cooked lamb with crispy vegetables}
117: Puigcerdà: Trinxat {bacon, cabbage and potato} festival and story
118: Barcelona: The Cook’s Book (Llibre del Coch) featuring old and new versions of Empanadas {pies}, Guisados {stews}, Manjares {delicacies}, Cocido {stew} tradition and story, Truita de Patata i Ceba {potato omelette}, potato omelette story and tradition
119: Lleida: Catalan Culinary Heritage story, produce and products, featuring Ànec amb Pera d’hivern {duck roasted with winter pears}
120: Valls: Calçots {spring onions} festival and story
121: Riudoms: Hazelnut festival and story
122: Delta de l’Ebre: Rice Fields featuring rice types including Bahia, Bomba, Fonsa, Montsianell, Sénia, Tebre, paella tradition and recipes including Paella de Arroz con Garbanzos {rice with chicken and chickpeas}, Paella del Delta de I‘Ebre {rice with chicken, prawns, rabbit, mussels}, Paella Mixta a la Valenciana {rice with beans, chicken and rabbit}, Paella de Mariscos {seafood}
123: Valencia: Oranges, tradition and story, featuring Bizcocho Tarta de Naranja {orange cake}
124: Valenciana Community: Chufa {tiger nuts} story featuring Horchata {tiger nut milk}, the arrival of origin foods from the eastern Mediterranean
125: Majorca: Almonds featuring Almendra de Mallorca {Majorcan almonds} tradition and story, plus Leche de Almendras, Algodón de Rosas y Granadas {almond milk, rose-flavoured spun sugar and pomegranate}, Romesco {sauce}, Tarta de Santiago {almond cake}, Turrón de Alicante {almond nougat},
126: Murcia: Ibn Razin Al-Tugibi featuring Reliefs of the Tables, about the Delights of the Food and the Different Dishes including comparisons between old and new versions of recipes
127: Gibraltar: Street Food featuring Calentita {chickpea fritters} plus the chickpea fritter tradition of Genoa (L‘oro di Pisa) and Palermo (Panelle), festival, tradition and story
127: Strait of Gibraltar: Almadraba {tuna fishing} tradition and story, featuring Atún al Ajill {tuna with garlic}, Atún Encebollado {tuna with onions}, Ensalada de Pimientos Asados y Atún Fresco de Andalucía {Andalusian roasted pepper and fresh tuna salad}
128: Cádiz: Street Food featuring Tortillitas de Camarones de Gaditano {shrimp fritters}
129: Jerez: Xérès {Sherry} featuring Riñones al Jerez {kidneys in sherry sauce}
130: Seville: Gazpacho {“soaked bread” soup} tradition and story
131: Al-Andalus: Moors, Muslims and Master Bakers featuring timeless breads, cakes and confections back in vogue including Alajú / Alfajor de Medina Sidonia {spiced honey cakes}, Albóndigas en Salsa de Almendras {meatballs in almond sauce}, Almuruzia {sweet lamb tagine}, Llet de Chufes {tiger nut milk – recipe in Sent Soví cookbook}
132: Andalusia: Street Markets featuring local produce and artisanal products
133: Extremadura: Iberian Ham tradition, story and marketing featuring Merluza en Jamón Serrano {hake in ham}
134: Madeira Archipelago: Espetada Madeirense {garlic beef} tradition and story
135: Lisbon: Camarão {prawns} tradition and story, featuring Gamas com Piri-Piri {prawns with pimento}, Sopa de Camarão {prawn soup}
136: Belém: Pastéis de Belém / Pastéis de Nata {custard tarts} tradition and story
137: Porto: Bacalhau de Cura {salted codfish} tradition and story, featuring Bolinhos de Bacalhau {fish balls}, Fofos de Bacalhau {salt cod puffins}
138: Vigo: Fish tradition and story, featuring Empanada Gallega {Galician fish pie}, Merluza a la Gallega {hake with garlic and potatoes}, Poulpe à la Galicienne {octopus Galician-style), Rabas {fried squid rings in lemon juice and sunflower oil}, Zarzuela {fish stew}
139: A Coruña: Tapas {appetisers / bar snacks} tradition and story, featuring Croquetas del Puchero {beef / chicken croquettes} among others
140: Asturias: Sausage Tradition featuring Fabada Asturiana {beans, bacon, black sausage and chorizo stew}, blood sausage story part one
141: Bilbao: Ajoarriero {salt cod and roasted peppers stew} tradition and story
142: Getaria: Anchovy festival, anchovy story and tradition
143: Basque Country / Pays Basque: Traditional Dishes featuring Bakailao {salted codfish}, Basurs Zalda {garlic soup}, Brazo Gitano {cake roll}, Marmitako {bonito and potato stew}, Morokil {sweet cornmeal cakes}, Oeufs à la Pipérade {slow-cooked onions, peppers and tomatoes with eggs}, Perretxiku (spring mushrooms scrambled with eggs}, Pisto {summer vegetable stew} among others
144: Bordeaux: Chaudrée (Chowder) tradition and story, featuring Chaudrée Saintongeaise (chowder of Saintonge)
145: Atlantic Fringe: Millennial featuring air-dried fish, smoked fish, wild birds, wild herbs, wild plants plus fruit food, Cranberry Mousse, Lingonberry Cream, Rhubarb Crumble, Rowanberry Jelly
145-Beara: Mackerel and Potatoes tradition and story, storyteller Stephen Crane and farmer-fisher Mitey McNally
146: Dingle: Out of the Blue Restaurant featuring fish, fish tradition, smoked mackerel pâté
147: Clonmel: Baker Nuala Hickey featuring barm brack {speckled bread} tradition and story
147-Ballybrommel: Cheese maker Elizabeth Bradley featuring raw milk cheese making tradition
148: Belfast: Baps, Breads and Farls featuring breakfast bap / farl tradition, soda farl, wheaten bread
149: Ards Peninsula: Scampi featuring Irish Sea prawns story
150: The Liffey: Home of the Pint featuring Mulligans Pub and the story of stout
151: Porthaethwy-Menai Bridge: Pot Jam tradition and story Caws Pobi / Welsh Rarebit {cheese and butter on toast}
152: Rusholme: Sanaam Restaurant featuring Barfi, Bhaji, Gosht, Jalebi, Pakora, Panipuri, Paratha, Samosa, Tarka, Tikka
153: Victoriana: Jelled Eels, Mash and Parsley Sauce tradition and story, part one of pie story
153-Brixton: Pop-Up Restaurants featuring west African Jollof {spicy tomato rice with beef / lamb} — might be moved to Berlin
154: Manningtree: Huffa {large bread roll}
155: Melton Mowbray: Pork Pies, British pie tradition and story, part two of pie story
156: Edinburgh: Haggis and Chips {blood pudding and chip potatoes} tradition and story
157: Inverurie: Butteries / Rowies {bread rolls} featuring bakery George Ross
158: Cullen: Skink {smoked haddock and potato soup}
159: Reykjavík: Cool Cuisine featuring Icelandic fish tradition
160: Frammi við Gjónna: KOKS featuring master chef Poul Andrias Ziska plus ræst {air-dried fermented fish and meat} tradition, story and food connections including Culatello di Zibello {cured, dried pork salami}, New Nordic Food Tradition
161: Bergen: Bergensk Frokostbuffé {Bergen buffet breakfast featuring bacon, bread, cheese (Gamalost, Gudbrandsdalsost, Jarlsberg, Pultost, Ridder, Snøfrisk), crackers, eggs, herrings, pickles, potatoes pancakes and more} plus Lefse {potato and rye bread}
162: Lofoten Islands: Stockfish tradition and story plus Frityrstekt Bacalao med Hvitløksaus {deep fried bacalao with garlic sauce}, Klippfisk Baller {dried cod balls}, Klippfisk Grateng {dried cod gratin}, Klippfisk med Grønnsaus {dried cod with green sauce}, Norsk Bacalao Gryte {Norwegian bacalao casserole}
163: Nordland: The Growth of the Soil featuring wild plants including hvonn {angelica}, tradition and story
164: Oslo: Fyrstekake {prince (almond) cake} tradition and story
164: Scandinavia: Fiskefars / Fiskefarse {fish balls} tradition and story
165: North Sea: Anjovislåda aka Jansson’s Frestelse {anchovy (sprats) and potato gratin / Jansson’s Temptation} tradition and story, food connections with Black Sea anchovy gratin
166: Baltic Sea: Herring featuring Räimepihvid {pan-fried herring}, Räime Pirukas {fish pasty}, Silkė su Svogūnais {herrings with onions}
167: Gothenburg: Fläskkotletter {pork chops} tradition and story
168: Stockholm: Arlanda Flygplats {Arlanda airport} open space food, dining and shopping area featuring Falukorv {coarse ring sausage}, Kanelbusser {cinnamon buns}, Knäckebröd {crispbread}, Lingonberries, Pepparkakor {gingersnaps}, Lussekatter {Lucia’s cats}, Renkött {reindeer meat}, Smörgåsbord {buffet}, traditions and stories
169: Färnebofjärden: Kräftor Fest {crayfish party} tradition and story, conservation
170: Uppsala: Skånsk Spettkaka {Scania pyramid cake} tradition and story
171: Norrbotten County: Reindeer Herding story, featuring Poronkäristys {reindeer with mashed potatoes and lingonberry sauce}
172: Oulu and Karjala: Pastries and Pies featuring Kainuu Rönttönen {Kainuu round rye-crust pie with lingonberries and mashed potato}, Kalakukko {fish-filled rye bread pastie}, Karjalanpiirakka {barley /potato / rice / vegetable rye / wheat pastry}, rye crust tradition and story, rye bread story part two
173-Helsinki Pähkinäkakku {nut cake}
174: St. Petersburg: Pyshki Piterskiye {Petersburg pastry} featuring donut tradition
175: Moscow: Pierogi / Pīrāgi / Pirogi {bread-cake dough pies} tradition and story
176: Moscow: Solyanka {winter soup pot} tradition and story
177: Tallinn: Home Alone featuring herrings, salads and sausages with Kilusalat {sprat, potato and onion salad}, Isetehtud Verivorstid {homemade blood sausage – bay, barley, belly pork, garlic, marjoram, onions, pig’s blood, pork, spices}, Peedi Salat koos Jogurti {beetroot salad with yoghurt}, blood sausage story part two, Räim Pirukas {herring pies}, Räimepihvid {pan-fried herring}
178: Valka: Cranberry featuring Debessmanna {cranberry dessert}, Rēzekne Torte {apple and cranberry cream cake}, Sokolades Torte {chocolate and cranberry cake}, Latvian cranberry tradition
179: Riga: Jāņi {mid-summer} beer, bread and cheese festival featuring Jāņu siers ar ķimenēm {hard cheese with caraway}, Miežu Alus {barley beer}, Speķa Pīrāgi {bread rolls stuffed with pork crackling / bacon} plus Saldskabmaize {sweet-sour rye bread} tradition and story, rye bread story part three
180: Jēkabpils: Canned Forest Meat {Elk, Deer, Roe Deer, Wild Boar} story
181: Ragana: Kuki Muki {carmelised corn sticks}
182: Vilnius: Potatoes featuring Bulviniai Paplotėliai su Brokoliais {broccoli-potato cakes}, Didžkukuliai (Cepelinai) {potato zeppelins}
183: Minsk: Kotletki Котлетки {meat patties} story and traditon across northern Europe
184: Kiev: Medovik s Shokoladom медовый торт с шоколадом {layered honey cake with chocolate} plus popular traditional dishes – Golubtsy Голубцы {baked cabbage and rice rolls in broth}, Salo Сало {garlic-flavoured pork fat} and Varenyky Вареники {boiled stuffed dumplings}
185: Lviv: Sauerkraut {soured cabbage) story and tradition
186: Lublin: Cebularz Lubelski {onion-poppy seed topped flatbread} tradition and story plus festival
187: Warsaw-Wilanów: The Ten Condiments featuring Master Chef Stanislaw Czerniecki and his 1682 book Compendium Ferculorum albo Zebranie Potraw (Collection of Dishes)
188: Bialystok: The story of Korycin (Ser Koryciński), the popular raw cow’s milk cheese
189: Warsaw: Belarussian, Jewish, Lithuanian, Russian, Ukrainian and Tatarish influence on Polish traditional food featuring breads, pastries …
190: Kraków, Kiełbasa (sausage) tradition, baking traditon plus street bread and bread festival
191: Gorce: White Gold, part one, Podhale Zackel sheep breed and cheese-making tradition, Bryndza and Sernik Tradycyjny {traditional cheese cake} story
192: Poznań: Polagra Food Fair featuring traditonal Polish and eastern European food products
193: Drawa National Park: Honey tradition featuring buckwheat, colza, heather, lime and polyfloral honey
194: Berlin: Bulette featuring the meatball tradition of northern Europe, story of meatballs, part 2 and the imbiss {snack} story and tradition
195: Baltic Sea Coast: Fischsandwichbericht {fish sandwich report} featuring brötchen {bread rolls} story part one, including Fischbrötchen {fish sandwich}
196: Lübeck: Chef Kevin Fehling featuring Eisbein {pork knuckle}
197: Hamburg: Hamburger Bauerngarten {small-scale vegetable-fruit-flower market producers} story
198: Copenhagen: Smørrebrød Succession featuring Leverpostejmad {liver pâté with anchovy}, Stjerneskud {shooting star – rye bread topped with battered plaice fillets, steamed white fish, shrimps, salmon, caviar, mayonnaise, lemon slices, asparagus, cucumber, tomato slices, lettuce, halved boiled eggs and fresh dill}, plus Insiders Guide to Smørrebrød by Af Ole Troelsø
199: Bornholm: Smokehouses featuring Sol over Gudhjem {smoked herring open sandwich}
200: Zealand: What the frik, is that a meatball? The story of meatballs, Part 3
201: Glueckstadt: Matjes {young herrings} festival tradition and story part one
202: Edewecht: Ostfriesische Grünkohl {kale with bacon, onions and sausages}
203: East Friesland: Teebrötchen {tea bread rolls}, brötchen {bread rolls} story part two, including DDR Brötchen {German Democratic Republic bread rolls}, Dinkel Sauerteig Brötchen {sourdough spelt bread rolls}, Milchbrötchen {crispy milk bread rolls}, Nussbrötchen {milk bread rolls with nuts}, Rosinenbrötchen {raisin bread rolls}, small breads story part one
204: Espel: Witlof {white leaf} story, featuring Chicons au Gratin {chicory / endive / witlof with cheese and ham}
204-Amsterdam: Snert {pea soup} tradition and story
205: Lieden: Leidse Hutspot {Leiden stew} tradition and story including Stamppot {potatoes, meat and vegetables} and other potato stews, Boerenkoolstamppot {kale, potatoes, smoked sausages}, Hete Bliksem Stamppot {potatoes, sweet apples, sour apples}, Zuurkool Stamppot {potatoes, sauerkraut, sausages}
206: Scheveningen: Maatjes {young herrings} tradition and story part two featuring Hollandse Maatjesharing {young herrings in tart bean sauce}, Maatjes Salade {salad with young herrings},
207: The Hague: Kruidnootjes {spice balls} spiced confection tradition
208: Rotterdam: Rooftop Horticulture {herb and vegetable growers} story
209: Zeeland: Baker Sjako Boer Zeeuwse Bolussen {Zealand sugar buns} tradition and story
210: Antwerpen: Bakery-Patisserie Tradition featuring breads, cakes, confections and pastries including Mini-Quiche {small savoury cheese-custard pies}
211: Ghent: Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze {beef and beer stew} featuring traditional beers Chimay and Rodenbach (Leffe Brune as an alternative), tradition and story
211: Wallonia: Frituur Central featuring the story of the Frikandel (meat sausage) and the Frikadelle (meat ball)
212: Gaume: Touffâye {stew}, Fricot story, Plate de Florenville potato, tradition dishes of Gaume and Ardennes
213: Luxembourg: Judd mad Gaardebounen {smoked pork collar with broad bean sauce} tradition and story
214: Cologne: Kölner Pannekooche {Cologne pancakes} plus pancake tradition and story and äädäppelschlot {potato salad buffet}, potato salad story and tradition
215: Witzenhausen: Red Cherry Fair featuring fair plus red cherry juice at Wilhelmshöhe Palace
216: Kassel: Kasseler (Hessischer) Speckkuchen {Kassel bacon cake} tradition and story
217: Rhineland: Traditional Dishes including Rheinischer Grünkohl {kale}, Rheinische Schwarzbrotsuppe {black bread soup}, Rheinischer Sauerbraten {soured beef}, Rheinisches Apfelkraut {apple-pear syrup}
218: Stromberg: Plum Festival
219: Alsace: Laugenbrezel / Laugenbrötchen / Laugengebäck {lye breads} plus pretzel story
220: Nancy: Quiche tradition and story featuring Quiche avec le Maquereau Fumé et la Bettes {custard pie with smoked mackerel and chard}
221: Djion: Mustard tradition and story
222: Lyon: Brioche tradition and story featuring Lyonnaise Brioche {butter bread with sausage}
223: Saint Gervais les Bains le Fayet: R’zules {savoury sweet rissoles}, festive pastries
224: Savoy: Raw Milk Cheeses cheese tradition, traditional dishes including tartiflette {bacon, cheese and potato gratin}
225: Chamonix: Fondue featuring the story of Fondue {cheese dip sauce}
226: Salvan–Saxon: A Walk in the Mountains featuring ancient alpine foods including Gerstensuppe {barley soup} and local produce including Abricotine {Luizet apricot brandy}, Eau-de-vie de poire du Valais {Williams pear brandy}, PSP-Jambon cru du Valais {cured raw ham}, PSP-Lard sec du Valais {cured bacon}, PSP-Raclette du Valais (raw cow’s milk cheese}, plus Châtaignes, Fromage et Pommes {chestnuts, cheese and apples} tradition, apples, apricots, bread, cheese, chestnuts, cornsalad, beef, raw milk, pears, pork, rye, wheat, wine plus Brisolée, Fully
227: Bern: Tram Stop Fast Food featuring Pangasius Knusperli im Backteig {catfish nuggets}
228: Stuttgart: The Biodynamic Experiment, Hutzelbrot {fruit and nut bread}, Spätzle / Knöpfle {spelt noodles}
229: Nuremberg: Bratwurst {sausage} tradition and history featuring Nürnberger Bratwürst {Nuremberg sausage}
230: Dresden: Stollen {fruit bread}, Pope’s butter letter, stollen tradition and story
231: Karlovy Vary: Bohemia featuring Bohemian traditional cuisine including Pečená Kachní Prsa {roast duck breasts}
232: Prague: featuring Jablková Žemlovka {apple loaf}, Prague cafe and restaurant tradition and history
233: Bratislava: Bratislavské Rožky {Bratislav crescent bread} featuring crescent bread tradition and story
234: Ružomberok: Ostiepky, Slovak smoked cheese, tradition and story
235: Detva: White Gold, part two, sheep’s milk cheese featuring Wallachian tradition
236: Wachau: Apricots featuring Marillenkuchen {apricot cake} and other apricot preparations
237: Vienna: Viennoiserie World Fair 1867, Gipfel / Kipfel {bread crescent} story featuring Vanillekipferl {vanilla crescent breads} plus Chausson aux Pommes {apple-filled puff pastries}, Chouquettes {puff pastries}, Croissant {crescent bread} Croissant au Beurre {with butter}, Croissant aux Amandes {with almonds}, Pain au Chocolat {with chocolate}, Pain au Chocolat aux Amandes {with chocolate and almonds}, Pain aux Raisins au Beurre {with raisins and butter}
238: Stryia: River Fish featuring Steirische Forellen {Styrian trout}
239: Tyrol: Tiroler Schmarrn {torn pancakes} tradition and story
240: Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Bräustüberl (guesthouse and beer garden} featuring veal dishes plus Bayerischen Leberkäse {Bavarian meatloaf} tradition and story
241: St Gallen: St Galler Bratwürst {veal sausages} story, Bratwürst mit Alt-Art Zwiebelsauce {sausages and onion sauce}
242: Konstanz: Onion Festival onion tradition and story
243: Zürich: Rösti {fried grated potatoes} tradition and story
244: Vaduz: Liechtenstein traditional food featuring Älplermagronen mit Wirz {alpine pasta with green cabbage}, Frikadellen Brötchen {meatball in bread roll}, Kalbsrahmgulasch mit Sauerramhspätzle (veal stew with creamed noodles), Pikante Käsestangen {spicy cheese sticks}
245: Fribourg: Bénichon Festival featuring Bricelets {waffle biscuits} and the Fasnachtsküchlein (carnival pastries) tradition
246: Geneva: Rousseau de Poulet Chaud {chicken with Rousseau}, a Rousseauean moment
247: Geneva-Paris TGV: Croque-Monsieur {toasted cheese and ham sandwich} tradition and story
248: Paris: Pomme de Terre Pont Neuf {chips of the new bridge}
249: Paris: Was Denis Diderot Correct? Ancient cook books and the cult of the master chef
250: Paris: Haute Cuisine versus Cuisine Traditionnelle, Michelen stars, chefs and cooks, the end of the debate
Draft Extracts
The Great European Food Adventure will be published as a large format book in 2021. To whet your appetite here are versions of some of the 250 stories featured in the book.
FRICOT INDIGENOUS — Local Food Produce | Traditional Food Recipes | Sustainable Food Security Solutions 