Tag: Gulyásleves

FOOD STORIES | The Goulash Story in Five Recipes

Belgium | France | Hungary | Liechtenstein | Luxembourg | Netherlands | Romania

1: Kalbsrahmgulasch LIECHTENSTEIN creamy veal stew

This is the meat stew most people believe is goulash. It is a dish that became popular during the Austro-Hungarian era, now a traditional dish in Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein. Beef shoulder can be used as a substitute. This is an adaptation of the recipe by chef Christian Helmreich at Restaurant Engel in Vaduz. This stew is generally served with the small dumplings known as spätzle.

1 kg veal shoulder, 4 cm cubed
500 ml veal stock / beer
375 g onions, sliced
150 ml double cream / crème fraîche
150 ml white wine
125 g long red peppers, sliced
100 g sweet apple purée
60 ml rapeseed oil
20 g sweet paprika powder
15 ml lemon juice
15 g tomato paste
1 garlic clove, crushed, mashed
10 peppercorns, crushed
6 juniper berries, crushed
2 bay leaves
Salt, large pinch

Fry onions, peppers and garlic in half of the oil for five minutes over a high heat, reduce heat, cover and sweat for 30 minutes. Place onion-pepper mixture in an ovenproof pot, add paprika powder, tomato paste, apple purée, crushed spices and bay leaves. Heat gently for five minutes. Deglaze frying pan with the wine, add contents to the pot. Brown veal cubes in remaining oil, set aside with a slotted spoon, deglaze pan with some of the stock. Add the stock from the pan and remaining stock to the pot. Add the meat and bring to a low boil, add lemon juice and seasonings. Transfer to oven. Bake, uncovered in the middle of the oven, at 160ºC for 100 minutes, add cream and finish at 140ºC for 20 minutes.

2: Tokány ROMANIA paprika stew

This is the original meat and paprika stew. Vladimir Mirodan says it was brought south to Bucharest by young Transylvanian girls in search of services and fortune. The kidneys can be from calves, lambs or pigs. The marjoram, mushrooms, paprika and sour cream are essential. Without them it does not have the distinctive flavour that make it one of the region‘s most popular traditional dishes. This is an adaptation from Károly Gundel’s Hungarian Cookery Book.

500 g mushrooms, sliced
350 g beef, cut into strips
350 g pork, cut into strips
350 g pork kidney, blanched, cut into strips
300 g sour cream
200 ml water
150 g onions, chopped small
150 g smoked bacon, cubed
60 g sunflower oil
6 garlic cloves, crushed
30 g hot paprika
10 g black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp mild paprika
5 g marjoram
Salt, two large pinches

Sauté onions in oil in a large frying pan over a low heat for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, add hot paprika, allow to soak in. Put pan back on heat, add beef, garlic, marjoram and seasonings, sauté until beef is brown. Add half the water, simmer for 10 minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Add pork, brown, simmer for 10 minutes in remaining water. In a separate frying pan sauté bacon and kidneys over a medium heat. When the kidneys are cooked add mushrooms and seasonings, cook for five minutes. Pour contents of bacon pan into beef pan, simmer for ten minutes, add mild paprika, then the cream and bring to a low boil. The aroma from this stew deters night creatures, so heavy with the garlic.

3: Carbonnades Flamandes / Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze BELGIUM FLANDERS FRANCE LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS beef and beer stew

The western goulash, a sweet slightly acidic traditional dish of the low countries centred on Flanders. Chimay and Rodenbach are the preferred traditional beers for this iconic dish. Leffe Brune is acceptable. Stale bread spread with mustard was the traditional method of thickening the liquid, now gingerbread with its subtle spice flavours is used.

2 kg brisket / shoulder beef, cut into 3 cm pieces, seasoned
1 litre beef stock
600 g onions, sliced
375 ml dark brown beer 
250 g fatty bacon, cubed
2 slices gingerbread bread / white bread, 
crusts removed, spread with mustard
60 g butter
30 g brown sugar
30 g white wheat flour
30 g mustard
30 ml olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 g salt
10 black peppercorns
5 g black pepper, freshly ground
5 juniper berries, crushed
Green peppercorns, large pinch
4 sprigs thyme
1 sprig rosemary 
2 bay leaves

Brown beef in half the butter and oil in a large heavy-based pot over a medium heat in batches, remove and set aside. Add remaining butter and oil to pan, turn heat to low and sauté the bacon for five minutes, then the onions for 15 minutes. Stir the flour into the onions and brown lightly. Deglaze the pan with three tablespoons of stock, then pour in remaining stock with the beer and herbs and juniper berries. Bring slowly to the boil. Add the beef, then, if using, place the mustard bread on top, mustard side down or add the gingerbread and mustard. Add the garlic, black peppercorns and seasonings, turn heat to low to medium, and simmer for two and a half hours, stirring occasionally during second hour. Sweeten with sugar and cook for 30 minutes uncovered. Season, serve with pasta or potatoes, chipped or mashed.

4: Bogracsgulyás HUNGARY kettle stew

A traditional dish of the steppes, the essential ingredient was meat dried on the saddle. The Magyars added the meat to a large pot of water, then finished the dish with the addition of dumplings or root vegetables, heavily spiced with paprika.

1.5 kg beef, 2 cm cubed
1.5 kg floury potatoes, peeled, 2 cm cubed
1.5 litres water 
500 g onions, sliced 
250 g fatty pork belly, cubed small 
30 g Szeged sweet paprika 
10 g Szeged hot paprika 
Seasonings

Fry pork over low heat in a large pot until the fat begins to separate and the meat turns crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, set aside. Fry onions in fat over a high heat, about five minutes, remove and set aside. Brown beef, return the onions to the pot with the water, bring to the boil. Add the sweet paprika, cover and simmer for an hour. Carefully slip the potatoes into the pot, bring back to the boil, reduce heat to low, season, cover, leave for 20 minutes. Sprinkle half of the hot paprika on top of the stew, leave uncovered for five minutes. Serve in deep bowls, adding a pinch of hot paprika to each dish, a chunk of bread on the side to mop up the juices.

5: FOOD CITIES OF EUROPE BUDAPEST and Gulyás

Buda and Pest are among the few centres of civilisation in Europe where the peasant culture is still reflected in the choice of traditional foods available in restaurants. In Budapest soups start every meal, and most of the time that meal is a stew. The exception is gulyásleves, the beef soup known as goulash. It is often served as a main course accompanied with egg-flour noddles. Kéhli, one of the city’s oldest restaurants, specialises in traditional food including bean, beef, chicken and fish soups and the range of stews. Sípos Halászkert serves a diverse range of fish soups.

1.5 litre of water
900 g beef, cubed 2 cm
500 g potatoes, diced small
500 g onions, chopped
300 g parsnip / turnip, diced
300 g tomatoes
250 g carrots, diced
250 g green or red peppers
100 g celery, cut small
30 g lovage leaves
4 garlic cloves, mashed
10 g paprika, hot or sweet
5 g caraway seeds
2 bay leaves
black pepper, pinch
salt, pinch
Oil, for frying

Sauté the onions in the oil for 30 minutes, increase heat and brown the beef. Reduce heat, stir in the tomatoes and peppers, add the garlic and cover. Leave to simmer for 30 minutes. Add the bay leaves, caraway seeds and paprika. After five minutes add the vegetables, remaining seasonings and water. Cook until the potatoes are al dente.


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Hungary 5

High Fives

 

Budapest agent on traditional goulash/gulyás.

If you come to Hungary and want the goulash you should order a pörkölt, which you get in nearly every restaurant. Pörkölt is so popular that you even find festivals where Hungarians challenge themselves to make the best, with loads of pálinka and a big celebration at the end.

Paprika, of course, is the essential ingredient, so five paprika dishes.

 

Lecso
onion, paprika, green and red pepper, tomato sauce

Gulyásleves
beef and vegetable paprika soup

Paprikás Csirke
chicken in creamy paprika sauce

Pörkölt
beef/lamb/pork and paprika stew

Tokány
beef, mushrooms, paprika, pork, pork kidney, 
smoked bacon, sour cream, herbs and spices stew

FRESH FRICOT | THE FRONT PAGE


EDITORIALS     EURO SNACKS     FOOD CONNECTIONS     FOOD STORIES     
GLOSSARY     HIGH FIVES     LEGENDARY DISHES     
RECIPES     REVIEWS     STREET MARKETS