This month we are testing and finalising recipes for Ice Trains and Snow Foods, Tastes of Turkey, Lazy Vegan, Meatballs of Europe and Legendary Dishes.
bread buns made with apple juice
500 g strong white wheat flour 225 ml apple juice, natural cloudy 100 ml full cream 15 g yeast 8 g salt Butter, for greasing
Grease a large rectangular baking tray with butter. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl in a warm area. Dissolve yeast in half the apple juice, add the cream. Add yeast mixture and remaining juice to the flour and salt, knead into a smooth dough. Leave to rise for 50 minutes, degas. Rise again for an hour, degas. Divide dough into 10 equal pieces, around 80 g each, shape into rolls, place them on buttered tray, leave to rise again, for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 200ºC. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes.
Sugar buns? An indelicate description for these delightful breads.
500 g / 16⅔ oz zopf flour (or 80% strong white flour, 10% barley flour, 10% spelt flour) 165 ml / 5½ fl oz milk, lukewarm 1 egg, beaten 50 g / 1⅔ oz butter, softened 40 g / 1⅓ oz sugar 1 orange, zest 1 lemon, zest 45 g / 1½ oz pistachios, chopped 45 g / 1½ oz sultanas 20 g / ⅔ oz yeast Saffron powder, pinch Salt, large pinch WASH 1 egg, beaten 45 g / 1½ oz pearl sugar
Dissolve yeast and saffron in half the milk. Leave to froth. Sieve flour into a large bowl with salt and sugar. Add remaining milk, yeast mixture and then incorporate butter and egg. Stir in the zest, pistachios and sultanas. Knead into a smooth dough, cover and leave to rise for an hour. Degas, divide into ten pieces, around 60 g each. Place on baking trays covered with greaseproof paper, leave to rise for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 180ºC. Brush buns with egg wash, sprinkle with pearl sugar. Bake for 25 minutes.
Schwein mit Kraut
pork and cabbage
A traditional dish that remains very popular, despite Austria’s haute cuisine obsessions.
1 kg / 2 lbs 3 oz pork, bite-sized pieces 1 large green cabbage, shredded 600 g / 1lb 8⅓ oz onions, sliced 250 ml / 1 cup water 100 g / 3⅓ oz butter 90 ml / 3 fl oz sour cream 30 ml / 1 fl oz sunflower oil 15 g / 1 tbsp paprika Seasonings
In a large pot fry onions in half of the butter, about 15 minutes, sprinkle with paprika, add water, pork and seasonings. Simmer for an hour, until pork is tender. Immediately saut. cabbage in remaining butter and oil for ten minutes, add sour cream, season, cover, reduce heat and simmer for an hour. Add cabbage to pork, stir, cover and cook for 30 minutes.
beef, bulgar and walnut meatballs
The Turks took these delightful Assyrian meatballs to their hearts (and stomachs) a very long time ago, and now produce numerous variations on the very old original recipe. In Istanbul the proliferation of Syrian restaurants has increased the competition to produce the best icli k.fte. (See notes below.)
500 ml / 2 cups + ⅔ fl oz / approx. 1 pint water, boiled 350 g / 11⅔ oz bulgur, fine ground 150 g / 5 oz semolina, fine ground 30 g / 1 oz walnuts, fine ground 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp salt Semolina, coarse, for coating
Soak bulgar and semolina in the hot water, leave to rest for 30 minutes, then add the walnuts and seasonings. Wet hands and knead into a soft dough.
250 g / 8⅓ oz beef, double minced 200 g / 6⅔ oz onions, chopped 100 g / 3⅓ oz walnuts, coarse chopped / fine ground 4 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped (optional) 4 tbsp parsley, finely chopped (optional) 30 ml / 1 fl oz olive oil 30 ml / 1 fl oz pomegranate molasses 15 g / ½ oz red pepper (paprika) flakes 45 g / 1½ oz red pepper paste / tomato paste (quantity optional) 1 tsp sumac, ground
Sauté onions in oil, about 15 minutes. Add the meat, break and fry for three minutes. Add paprika, sumac and walnuts. Increase heat, stir for three minutes until the walnuts release their oil. Stir in the molasses and paste, leave to cool. If desired, work the herbs into the mixture. Divide dough into walnut-sized pieces, about 30 g each. Using thumb and forefinger make a cavity with thin sides in the bulgar dough. Place 10 g of filling inside the cavity, push down and fold dough over the filling, seal and shape into a ball. Deep fry in sunflower oil at 190°C until golden or shallow fry in a large frying pan or bake in a 200°C oven or boil in salted water. Note: The pastes can be bought in jars but they are easy to make if good fresh red peppers and tomatoes, preferably Turkish, are available. For a colourful description on how to make red pepper paste go to http://www.deliciousistanbul.com/blog/2013/08/29/incredible-oven-roasted-red-bell-pepper-paste/.
Note: The crust for icli köfte is not always made with bulgar. Semolina became a crust ingredient along with nuts aeons ago. Wheat grits have also played a part while in more recent centuries potatoes have been combined with eggs and flour. Some recipes call for double-ground meat to be added to the various flours that define the crust. The bulgar can be coarse ground and also fine ground, the latter producing a crispy crust. The cooking method is also variable. According to Sahrap Soysal, author of A Cookery Tale, fried icli köfte are called irok, while the boiled version is known as igdebet.
Pan de Nueces
sweet walnut bread
This typical sweet walnut bread has many guises as a bread and as a cake-bread, with various enrichments, such as butter, sugar and sultanas. Generally though it is a simple flour, water / milk, walnut, salty yeasted bread. This version includes lemon rind, fine grated, worked into the dough with a little vanilla sugar to give a hint of sweetness.
150 ml milk / water, warmed 150 g strong white wheat flour 125 g white wheat flour 50 g walnuts, coarse chopped 1 lemon, rind, grated 30 g vanilla sugar 20 g butter, softened / olive oil 15 g yeast 5 g salt Butter, for greasing
Dissolve yeast in the warm milk or water. Sieve flour into a large bowl, add salt, sugar and yeast mixture. Work into a dough, adding butter or oil in small amounts until the dough is soft and spongy, dough temperature 26ºC. Leave to rise for 50 minutes, degas, leave to rise for a further 50 minutes. Grease a baking tray. Work lemon rind and walnuts into dough, shape into a long or round loaf, place on tray and leave to rise until double in size. Preheat oven to 180°C. With a sharp knife make deep cuts in the surface of the dough. Bake in the middle of the oven for 25 minutes.