BOOK | Blue Window | A Food Journey into the Past via Europe’s High Peaks and River Valleys I Italy


This is the heart of the Alps, high peaks and hidden valleys, where Italy borders Austria and Switzerland. We are in Malles | Mals because we want to see the good work being done by the Vinterra Co-operative.

Malles | Mals to Merano / Meran via Töll (train and bus) 68-83 minutes


With 315 days of sunshine each year the delightful town of Naturns | Naturno alongside the Adige river is the first of several stops we are making on the railway line between Malles / Mals and Merano / Meran. [snip]


Here we go off on a tangent to experience the majesty of South Tyrol. [snip]

Merano | Meran to Bolzano-Bozen (train) 40-44 minutes


Bolzano / Bozen is the ’Gateway to the Dolomites’. Here the traditional food is quintessentially alpine and essentially Austrian, where history in the South Tyrol is never-ending. [snip]


The Deer Hunter

Ötzi was found lying in melt-water on a granite slab in a gully strewn with large boulders, a few metres from the Italian border with Austria, 3210 metres above sea level. Hikers Erika and Helmut Simon, from Nuremberg, made the discovery at one thirty in the afternoon of Thursday, September 19, 1991. They were descending the Finail peak in the Tisenjoch area of the Ötztal Alps. A four-meter-high stone pyramid now marks the find-site.

Ötzi was not, as some have surmised, a herder, bringing animals to graze the rich pastures of the high slopes. And, despite the romantic assumptions, he was not a hunter-gatherer. He came from a valley community – about 1000 metres below Tisen, hardly more than half a day’s hike away – that subsisted on agriculture and herding.

Ötzi had consumed red deer and wild goat meat and wholewheat seeds shortly before his absurd death. Much has been made about the discovery and condition of his mummy, but if Ötzi’s stomach contents reveal anything, it is one amazing fact. The traditional foods of the Alpine regions have not changed much in over 5,000 years.

The general diet of Ötzi’s community would have included cooked, dried and smoked meat (from deer, goat, ibex, pig, sheep), flatbreads (more like biscuits made from coarsely ground cultivated grains), a pot-stew (eintöpf) containing cereals, dried meat and greens, and probably cheese from cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk. Carbohydrates from barley, einkorn and emmer grains, minerals and vitamins from berries, fruits, grains, herbs, leaves and seeds, and protein from various meats were essential to the well-being of his community. Ötzi was undoubtably a hunter, a member of an elite group, skilled in bow and arrow work, an experienced and knowledgeable hiker and tracker, and he was probably killed by accident doing a job that would ensure the survival of his community!

Andreas Putzer is an archaeologist based at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano / Bozen. He believes he has resolved some of the mysteries surrounding Ötzi’s life and death. ‘His diet was based mainly on game, ibex and deer, which links him to hunting,’ he says as a matter of course, stating an undoubtable fact. Specialised hunting of big game had become a prestigious activity for the high rollers of Ötzi’s community. His clothing and equipment suggest he was integral to the hunting culture. The hunters, says Putzer, made their own weapons.

‘Ötzi had a very sophisticated bow, he used the best materials – the best wood to make the shaft, the best flint to make the arrow-head, jew, which is strong and flexible, for the bow; he was very up-to-date for his period.’ He had an intimate knowledge of the mountain terrain and was blessed with extraordinary stamina. He was fit and strong, a veteran in the use of a bow. His aim would have been straight.

Unlike one of his companions!

Ötzi had been shot and this has prompted theories about dark motives. Equally plausible is the possibility that his death was not preordained. Putzer, while not dismissing the idea that Ötzi was the victim of a feud, is more interested in the reasons for his presence in the high mountains. ‘They hunted close to their settlements. They needed to hunt because they could not kill their domestic animals. So we have to think they had crop failure. What do you do if you want to eat? The only possibility is to hunt.’

‘The ibex and deer followed different routes and the hunters would have known where they were at different times of the year. The ibex, in particular, roamed close to where (Ötzi) was found. I think it is possible (he was shot by accident). The only strange thing is that they left him up there.’

Strange because Ötzi would have been a hero in his community. The colder climate of the period had reduced agricultural yields, says Putzer, ‘forcing the population to compensate for the loss of calories in the diet with meat derived from hunting activity’. Ötzi provided that food.

He died where he fell, preserved by ice that crept imperceptibly over his body for thousands of years. Now we are fascinated by this iceman, which does not surprise Putzer. ‘There is a fascination because there is a body and humans identity with their own, also we have his clothes, his equipment … the mummy makes this archeological find more human. You see his clothes, we all wear clothes, you discover his physical problems – he had arthrorois and you say “I have arthrorois”; he was lactose intolerant, “I am also lactose intolerant”. This makes him close to people, that is why he is so famous.‘

Today a walker in the high Alps might eat a meal similar to the last one Ötzi consumed, and not be expected to share the same fate! [snip]

South Tyrol

RECIPE — Bozner Herrengröstl / Tiroler Gröstl leftover meat and potato plate
RECIPE — Canederli al Tastasal bread, bacon, spiced pork mince dumplings
RECIPE — Frittelle di Mele apple fritters
RECIPE — Pasta e Fagioli pasta and beans in aromatic sauce
RECIPE — Strauben / Frittata Dolce sweet funnel cakes
RECIPE — Torta di Mele apple tart

Pot Stew Tradition



Finding yourself in Trieste when you should be in Udine was a frequent failing of somnolent riders on the overnight train from Naples in the years before Trenitalia introduced their high-speed trains.

Asleep at Mestre, intrepid continental travellers awoke, wandered out into the city at the top of the Adriatic and found themselves face to face with the bronze statue of a man with a book in hand. So take solace if you find yourself in the same predicament, in the presence of Dubliner James Joyce on the Ponterosso bridge over the Grand Canal in the heart of Trieste, walking in the wrong direction.

Being the wise man that he is, he knows you need to need to turn around, retrace your steps to the central station to get back on track. This done, you must identify the train to Udine, and on arrival in the alpine city, instead of remaining in the station to wait for the next train into the Balkans, you should leave and find the bus that will take you into the heart of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia mountains.


Because only a fool would miss the opportunity to sample the traditional food of Carnia in the restaurant where an ingenious chef left a lasting culinary legacy.

Old and New

In the Albergo Roma on Piazza 20 Settembre in the old town, the chefs who inhabit the kitchen at Restaurant Roma strive to repeat history, as they continue the tradition established by their former chef Gianni Cosetti, who made art with his interpretations of local recipes. One of his chefs said he made ‘a high cuisine of tastes and flavours’ out of Carnia’s meagre fare. Cosetti’s book, Old and New Kitchen of Carnia, remains a culinary masterpiece. [snip]

Albergo Roma

Formaggio di Malga

We first encountered 36-month old Malga stravecchio cheese in Adria during a visit to Arnaldo Cavallari, the creator of the ciabatta. The good people of Malga Alta Carnia had brought samples for the diners and drinkers in the Terrazza in Piazza to taste.

Alas on this journey, Sauris, where they are based, is just off course, so instead we are going to tell you why their cheese (in fact why all the cheese of this region) is remarkable.

It’s all to do with the altitude (1500-1800 metres above sea level), the climate (crystal clear and unpolluted), the landscape (nutrient-rich herbs), the ingredients (raw milk) and the process (slow natural ageing of 18-36 months at 1370 metres above sea level). As the collective put it, ’each piece of cheese brings the biodiversity of the pasture, the effort of the farmer and the skill of the cheesemaker’.

Cheese-maker Sebastiano Crivellaro has no doubts about this. ’The best stories are told by seasoned cheeses that, with their 18-36 months of seasoning, bring with them a piece of the past. The fact that this product preserves the ancient wisdom leads us to reflect, to commit ourselves and to maintain it. This is a product, like few others, that has survived through the sheer force of its goodness and genuineness.’

Once tasted, never forgotten.

Malga Cheese

Cafe Culture


Coffee Culture


Potato Culture

There are probably more stories in the world about the venerable potato than any other item of food. Cast as a villain in countless dramas, from Ireland to Russia, the potato has played a divisive part in traditional food cultures, changing ways of life in many countries.

Known to the inhabitants in the highlands of Peru over 10,000 years ago, the potato (papa in the local dialect) was gradually domesticated and cultivated throughout the Americas. It appeared in Spain in 1539 without fanfare. Forty years later it was cultivated in Andalusia and Galicia and sold as a root vegetable in Seville and Madrid. Later in the 1500s Walter Raleigh was growing potatoes on his estate in the south-east of Ireland. It was also known to the native Irish in the west of Ireland where it is believed it was traded for fish with the Basques. Whether the Spanish took potatoes to all their terrorities in Europe, to Italy and to the Netherlands, has always been disputed. What is known is that canton Glarus native Johann Jakob Strub, a lieutenant in the English army, returned home to Switzerland with a bag of seed potatoes from Ireland. They were cultivated in Glarus in 1697. They spread to the neighbouring cantons and by the middle of the 19th century prötlete herdöpfel (fried potatoes) replaced barley porridge as the preferred breakfast among farming families around the growing city of Zurich.

The recipe travelled south-west into the Bernese countryside and over the mountains into the Roman canton of the Valais, where it was called pommes de terre roties. It became the morning meal among the French-speaking farmers, was shortened to rotiesrösti in Swiss-German. By the mid-1900s variations of the original recipe began to appear. The Roman west preferred boiled potatoes, the Germanic east used raw. In eastern Switzerland the potato was used to make a breakfast dish called maluns, which can be described as toasted potato lumps.

This type of activity occurred all over the European continent, the potato replacing an indigenous ingredient in many breakfast, lunch and dinner preparations.

Meuse river fishers in Namur were among the first people to realise the potato was a subsistence crop and when the river was frozen in winter they began to adapt their fish-frying method to potatoes peeled and cut into strips. This was the beginning of the potato fry tradition, which spread into the Netherlands and northern France, and is now characterised by frituur (fry shops) across the regions. The perfect frite in Belgium is a floury potato like bintje, cut 1 cm per side.

The potato would become a field crop despite resistance from the peasantry in Germany and Russia, where potato production would eventually become the highest in the world. The potato replaced grain, especially during the 1700s when bad harvests pushed up the price of barley, oats, rye and wheat. It became the staple in western Ireland, northern Scotland, England, Flanders, the Rhineland and in eastern and western Switzerland.

We can see today the impact of the potato on traditional food. A protein package full of carbohydrates, vitamins B6 and C, potassium, niacin and iron, it symbolised working life by providing energy and well-being in every imaginable kind of form. The potato was baked, boiled, cooked, fried, mashed, powdered, stuffed and sautéed. Eventually it became the base ingredient to make alcohol – potín (poteen) in Ireland, vodka in Russia – and that made it irresistible. This rustic tradition is dying out in Ireland, while in Russia (and in France) it survives.

The potato produced national dishes in many countries.

It did not fully penetrate countries where rice was the dominant carbohydrate, the Italians and Turks and even the Spanish preferred their short grain rice. The people of the Indian Sub-Continent are an exception, they took the potato to their hearts but remained in love with their rice. In Italy the potato made its name with the little dumplings called gnocchi that were prepared with puréed potatoes mixed with flour and blanched in hot water, and served with grated cheese. In Turkey the potato became associated with hamsi, the little anchovy-like fish of the Black Sea, and also with the cheese pastry tradition of eastern Europe. In Spain the potato found fame with the potato omelette, in Catalonia with truita de patata i ceba.

The tradition of boiling potatoes whole in their skins and serving them with butter or buttermilk is gradually dying out. A mash made from whole cooked potatoes and buttermilk was called the stiffner in the west of Ireland, but it is now a rare sight on a plate. Baked potato mashed with butter and milk is hardly seen anymore.

Roast potatoes have managed to survive, largely as an accompaniment to roast meat dinners in Britain. In eastern Europe and Russia potatoes were boiled and roasted in animal fats – goose, duck, etc – a tradition that is still holding out, despite health concerns.

Mashed potatoes remain popular. You can still go into a shop in south London and order a plate of jellied eel or pie, mash and parsley sauce. Mashed potatoes and carrots, spiced with nutmeg, is called stoemp in the Netherlands and Belgium – a clever interpretation of an early food tradition brought into the region by the Spanish. In Ireland kale and potatoes are mashed together to make colcannon. The mashed potato and crushed chickpea balls called topik made in Armenia are having a makeover.

Potatoes became an essential ingredient in ‘field’ and ‘fish’ cauldron soups and stews. The chaudière tradition re-crossed the Atlantic to Newfoundland where it became chaudrée, anglicised as chowder, in many recipes without potatoes. Chowder is now an Irish national dish – made with potatoes.

Irish stew, initially with mutton, potatoes and onions, now with lamb, potatoes, onions and seasonings, has also survived the test of time. In the Alpine regions of Austria and Italy gröstl, a potato and leftover meat stew, has done the same. Less so in Scotland with stovies, a stew made with potatoes and onions and leftover meat.

Sodd is a spicy meat and potato soup in Norway. Kartoffel suppe is always on the menu in Germany and neighbouring countries in various combinations with potato as the base. In Scotland the soup known as Cullen skink is smoked haddock, potato and onion soup.

Meat and potato pies are still popular in the north of England because the recipe has been commercialised for sale in ‘fish and chip’ shops and at sporting events. In Slovenia they make a wonderful potato pasty called idrijski žlikrofi. And back in England the Cornish pasty, made with beef, onion, potato and swede, is managing to hold its own against fast-food competition. Potato is a main ingredient in the Swiss mountain dish called cholera, which also contains apples or pears, cheese and onions. The potato pie is now an institution across Europe.

Potato dumplings remain popular in northern and central Europe. In Austria dumplings made with apricot and potato are called marillenknödel.

Northern and central European countries got into the habit of making potato pancakes but it was the Spanish who made the tortilla – the potato omelette – an essential element of the frying pan or griddle. The Catalonians claim it was their idea. The Irish, with their boxty, can lay claim to the original idea.

Slowly dying out is the tradition of making potato cakes on a griddle. Once common across northern Europe, it is only in southern Europe, in Andorra, the Basque Country and Catalonia that it is still popular, albeit as the bacon, cabbage and potato cakes known as trinxat.

Baked in the oven, sliced potatoes became the base for gratin dishes that feature cheese and aromatic ingredients like anchovy and bacon. Among these is the potato-cheese gratin known as tartiflette in France.

Köttbullar, Swedish meatballs, are made with potato and meat, from beef, pork or veal.

Then there is kartoffelsalat, served hot and cold in Austria, Germany and Switzerland. A good potato salad is still a mystery to be solved, because those who know the secret are reluctant to share it. Among these is the äädäppelschlot of Cologne, a wondrous creation.

Potato is an ingredient in numerous dough preparations, from breads to pastries. Among these is the tradition associated with Hungary called lángos and known throughout central-eastern Europe. The Hungarians produce burgonyás lángos, a fried potato flatbread sold as a street food.

And because there are so many varieties of potato now being grown across the world, it is essential that the choice of potato – whether floury, versatile or waxy – is a match for the traditional recipe it has been designed for.

In Denmark this is easy. There they love the varieties that come from Lammefjord, thin-skinned potatoes like ditta, exquisa and jutlandia that keep their shape.

The Italians, who make those delicious potato dumplings, grow numerous varieties in the potassium-rich volcanic soils around Lake Bolsena between Rome and Florence. These varieties – agata, agria, amber, arizona, chopin, finka, marabel, monalisa, universa, vivaldi – are all perfect for gnocchi, and also for fritters and omelettes.

The Frietmuseum in Bruges is the first and only museum dedicated to potato fries.

Back in Belgium, where the potato is the epitome of the people-place-produce philosophy of traditional food, they have Dutch teacher and potato specialist Kornelis Lieuwes de Vries to thank for the bintje variety. After constant specialisation over 25 years, it was the cross between fransen and munstersen that produced the succesful bintje variety, named after Bintje Jansma, one of his pupils, in 1905!

Potato Varieties

Potatoes are graded into cooking categories, A, B, C and D – ranging from firm to soft. For our purposes here are some of the varieties used in traditional dishes.

AGATA (A-B) Early, light yellow, multi-purpose, mashed, salad.
AGRIA (B-C) Summer, deep yellow, multi-purpose, fried, mashed.
ASPARAGUS (A) Main, deep yellow, boiled, salad.
BINTJE (B-C) Early, yellow, fried, mashed, roasted.
CHALLENGER (B) Early-Main, light yellow, fried.
CHARLOTTE (B-A) Summer, yellow, boiled, salad.
DESIRÉE (B-C) Summer, yellow, fried, mashed.
FONTANE (B) Summer-Late, yellow, fried.
JUTLANDIA (A-B) Medium-Early, golden-yellow, multi-purpose.
LADY CHRISTA (A-B) Early, yellow, fried, new.
MONALISA (B) Early, yellow, multi-purpose, mashed.
NICOLA (A-B) Late, yellow, boiled, salad.
OSTARA (B) Early, pale yellow, multi-purpose.
ROOSTER (C-D) Late, yellow, baked.
SAVA (B) Medium-Early, yellow, boiled.
SIRTEMA (B) Early, yellow, fried.
SPUNTA (B) Early, yellow, multi-purpose.
STELLA (A-B) Summer, yellow, boiled, salad.
URGENTA (B) Summer, yellow, fried.
VICTORIA (B) Summer, yellow, baked, boiled, salad, soup.

The agata and agria are regarded as the best potatoes for mash, specifically dumplings.

The bintje and challenger for fries.

The lady christa for new potato use.

The stella and victoria for salads.

Traditional Dishes featuring Potatoes

A traditional dish of the Rhineland with subtle variations in Hesse, this döppekooche. Some variations replace half of the bacon with mettwürst, the smoked beef-pork sausages that are an integral aspect of the traditional food culture of Germany. Döppekooche is generally served with apple sauce.

Potatoes are an essential ingredient in traditional cooking throughout Europe and in parts of America and Asia. These traditional dishes give an idea of the scope of this versatile ingredient.

  • Ajogañán SPAIN aromatic potatoes with fish
  • Aloo Matar / Vegetable Curry EUROPE INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT
  • Aloo Saag BRITAIN INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT spinach and potato
  • Älplermagronen Klassiker SWITZERLAND cheese, pasta and potatoes
  • Anjovisläda SWEDEN anchovy, potato gratin
  • Baked Potato IRELAND
  • Batatas Confitadas SPAIN candied potatoes
  • Blynai Bulviniai LITHUANIA potato pancakes
  • Blynai Kėdainių LITHUANIA meat-filled potato pancakes
  • Bolinhos de Bacalhau PORTUGAL dried cod and potato balls
  • Bómpes Patátas GREECE potato balls
  • Boxty IRELAND cooked-raw potatoes
  • Bozner Herrengröstl / Tiroler Gröstl AUSTRIA leftover meat and potato plate
  • Bramborová Polévka CZECH REPUBLIC potato soup
  • Brændende Kærlighed DENMARK Burning Love! potato mash with bacon and onions
  • Bratkartoffeln mit Speck und Zwiebeln GERMANY fried potatoes with bacon and onion
  • Bratkartoffeln mit Zwiebeln und Bratkartoffelgewürz GERMANY spiced fried potatoes with onion
  • Brav u Mlijeku MONTENEGRO lamb in milk with potatoes
  • Bryndza Koláč SLOVAKIA cheese, potato pies
  • Bryndzové Halušky SLOVAKIA potato dumplings with Bryndza cheese, smoked bacon
  • Bulviniai Blynai LITHUANIA potato pancake
  • Bulviniai Paplotėliai su Brokoliais LITHUANIA broccoli, potato cakes
  • Burgonyás Lángos HUNGARY fried potato flatbread
  • Capretto con Patate ITALY kid goat with potatoes
  • Carrageen, Mackerel, Potato Chowder IRELAND
  • Cazzilli / Crocchè ITALY cheese and potato croquettes
  • Chervonyy Borsch UKRAINE red stew
  • Chowder IRELAND fish soup with potatoes
  • Ciorba de Potroace ROMANIA potato soup
  • Coddle IRELAND bacon, potato and sausage casserole
  • Colcannon IRELAND kale and potato mash
  • Cornish Pasty ENGLAND diced beef, onion, potato, swede pastry
  • Cotriade FRANCE fish, onion and potato soup
  • Cottage Pie ENGLAND potato-topped meat and vegetable pie
  • Criadillas de la Tierra SPAIN potato omelette (a potato recipe from 1611, published in Francisco Martínez Motiño’s Arte de Cocina)
  • Cullen Skink SCOTLAND smoked haddock, onion, potato soup
  • Didžkukuliai (Cepelinai) LITHUANIA potato zeppelins
  • Diots avec Pommes de Terre et des Sarments de Vigne FRANCE sausages with potatoes and vine shoots
  • Donegal Champ IRELAND scallion and potato mash
  • Döppekooche GERMANY potato cake with bacon and onions
  • Draniki BELARUS potato pancakes
  • Fadge IRELAND bacon, egg and potato cakes
  • Farcement / Farçon FRANCE potato loaf with bacon, dried fruit and spices
  • Farçon FRANCE puréed potatoes with eggs, herbs and spices
  • Flæskesteg med Rødkål og Brunede Kartofler DENMARK pork chops with red cabbage and browned potatoes
  • Focaccia Panino / Focaccia Farcite ITALY potato dough flatbread with cheese, salami, spinach, tomato
  • Fondue Camembert Patate SWITZERLAND cheese sauce with potato
  • Frico con Patate e Cipolla ITALY fried cheese with potato and onion
  • Frico con Pecorino / Montasio e Patate e Cipolla ITALY cheese, onion, potato fritters
  • Ftira tal-ġbejniet MALTA flat bread topped with curd cheese and potatoes
  • Ftira tal-inova MALTA flat bread with anchovy, potatoes, tomatoes
  • Ftira tat-toqlija MALTA fried onions, garlic and tomatoes on flatbread
  • Găluşcă / Galuska / Haluška / Halušky BELARUS HUNGARY POLAND ROMANIA RUSSIA SLOVAKIA potato dumplings
  • Gebratener Hering mit Kartoffestampf und Gurken, hartgekochte Eier und Apfel-Radieschen Vinaigrette GERMANY fried herring with potato mash, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs and apple-radish vinaigrette
  • Gefüllte Kartoffeln GERMANY potato stuffed with cheese, egg
  • Gelderse Stimp-Stamp NETHERLANDS bacon-smoked sausage, lettuce and potato stew
  • Gnocchi di Patate / Gnocchi di Verona ITALY potato dumplings
  • Gommer Cholera SWITZERLAND apple, cheese, pear, potato pie
  • Gratin de Morue aux Aioli ANDORRA CATALONIA FRANCE SPAIN baked salt-cod with potatoes and garlic-olive oil dressing
  • Grønlangkål med Skinke DENMARK kale with ham and caramelised potatoes
  • Guiso Pelotas SPAIN meatballs and potatoes in soup
  • Haggis and Chips SCOTLAND blood pudding with chipped potatoes
  • Hamburger Labskaus GERMANY cured beef, herring, beetroot, potato, onion stew
  • Hamsi Firinda TURKEY baked anchovies and potatoes
  • Hasanpaşa Köftesi TURKEY meatballs with pureéd potatoes
  • Idrijski Žlikrofi SLOVENIA potato filled pasta
  • Insalata di Patate ITALY baked potato salad
  • Irish Stew IRELAND hill lamb, onion, potato stew
  • Jellied Eel / Pies, Potato Mash and Parsley Sauce ENGLAND
  • Kainuun Rönttönen FINLAND lingonberry-potato rye pie
  • Karjalanpiirakka FINLAND barley /potato / rice / vegetable rye / wheat pastry
  • Kartofel’nyy Calat Картофельный Cалат BELARUS RUSSIA UKRAINE potato salad
  • Kartoffel-Baumnuss-Brötchen SWITZERLAND potato and walnut bread rolls
  • Kartoffeln in der Salzkruste GERMANY potatoes in salt crust
  • Kartoffeln mit Äpfeln und Bratwürst GERMANY potatoes with apples, sausages
  • Kartoffelknödel AUSTRIA GERMANY potato dumplings
  • Kartoffelpuffer / Reiberdatschi mit Apfelmus GERMANY potato pancakes, apple sauce
  • Kartoffelsalat / Warmer Kartoffelsalat GERMANY potato salad / hot potato salad
  • Kartoffelsuppe AUSTRIA GERMANY SWITZERLAND potato soup
  • Käse und Kartoffel Suppe SWITZERLAND cheese, potato soup
  • Kėdainių Blynai LITHUANIA meat-filled potato pancake
  • Keftédes CYPRUS lamb / pork, potato, mint meatballs
  • Kilusalat BALTICS sprat, potato salad
  • Kjøttkaker NORWAY beef / chicken, potato flour/starch, oats, ginger, nutmeg meatballs
  • Kluski Ślaskie POLAND potato dumplings of Silesia
  • Koláč so Bryndza a Zemiakový SLOVAKIA cheese and potato pie
  • Köttbullar SWEDEN beef / pork/veal, potato meatballs
  • Kraška Jota SLOVENIA thick bean, potato, sausage and vegetable soup
  • Krompirjeva Juha SLOVENIA potato soup
  • Labskaus GERMANY cured beef, herring, beetroot, potato, onion stew
  • Lefse NORWAY potato pancakes
  • Mackerel and Potatoes IRELAND
  • Maluns SWITZERLAND toasted potato lumps
  • Maneghi ITALY gnocchi with sweet potatoes
  • Marillenknödel AUSTRIA apricot potato dumplings
  • Masala Dosa ENGLAND fried onion, potato and spice wrap
  • Meat and Potato Pies ENGLAND
  • Merluza a la Gallega SPAIN hake with garlic and potatoes
  • Mischleta SWITZERLAND apple, cheese, corn and potato gratin
  • Musaka me Patate ALBANIA potato-meat bake
  • Papas con Chocos SPAIN potatoes with cuttlefish
  • Patate të Pjekura me Vezë ALBANIA baked potatoes
  • Patatesli Peynirli Poğaça TURKEY potato cheese pastry
  • Patate të Mjaltit ALBANIA honey potatoes
  • Patatnik BULGARIA cheese, egg, potato pie
  • Pie, Potato Mash and Parsley Sauce ENGLAND
  • Platsindy s Kartoshkoy Плацинды с картошкой MOLDOVA potato pies
  • Plokkfiskur ICELAND mashed haddock and potatoes
  • Poronkäristys FINLAND reindeer, potatoes and lingonberry sauce
  • Potaje de Garbanzos, Arroz y Patatas SPAIN rice with chickpeas and potatoes
  • Potato crisps EUROPE
  • Potato farls IRELAND thin potato cakes
  • Potetlefse NORWAY griddle potato cakes
  • Purée de Pommes de terre FRANCE baked potato mashed with butter, milk
  • Raštan MONTENEGRO cabbage stuffed with meat, potato, rice and spices
  • Reibekuchen / Rievkooche GERMANY grated potatoes
  • Rösti Berner SWITZERLAND pan-fried boiled potatoes with bacon
  • Rösti Ursprünglich SWITZERLAND original pan-fried boiled potatoes
  • Rösti Zürcher SWITZERLAND pan-fried raw potatoes with caraway, onions
  • Saarländischer Dippelappes GERMANY Saarland mashed potato cake with bacon, leeks and herbs
  • Skordalia GREECE garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, potatoes, walnuts
  • Sodd NORWAY lamb / mutton, carrot, potato spicy soup
  • Stakanje ITALY potato-green bean-courgette compot
  • Stamppot Boerenkool NETHERLANDS potato and kale with smoked sausage
  • Stamppot Hete Bliksem NETHERLANDS apple/pear and potato with cinnamon and mint or crispy bacon/chicken liver/minced meat/sausage
  • Stamppot Zuurkool NETHERLANDS potato, sauerkraut, smoked sausage
  • Stiffner IRELAND buttermilk, mashed potato
  • Stoemp BELGIUM LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS mashed potatoes and vegetables, nutmeg
  • Stoficado FRANCE cod, garlic, olive, onion, potato, red pepper, tomato Stew
  • Stovies SCOTLAND potato, onion and leftover meat stew
  • Štruklji Sirovi SLOVENIA potato filled pastries
  • Sütte Levrek ve Pazılı Patates TURKEY seabass with milk sauce, sauteed potatoes and Swiss chard
  • Svinemørbrad bøffer med løg, kartofler og brun sovs DENMARK pork tenderloin steaks with onions, potatoes and brown sauce
  • Tartiflette FRANCE bacon, cheese and potato bake
  • Terchovej Zemiakový Koláč SLOVAKIA potato cake of Terchová
  • Tierteg LUXEMBOURG potato mash, sauerkraut
  • Topik ARMENIA chickpea-potato stuffed balls
  • Torta di Patate ITALY almond, sugar, potato cakes
  • Tortino di Patate con Guanciale ITALY potato pie with cured pork cheek and neck
  • Trinxat ANDORRA bacon, cabbage and potato cakes
  • Truffade FRANCE cheese and potato pancake
  • Truita de Patata i Ceba CATALONIA potato omelette
  • Val Divedro Cuchêla ITALY bacon, pork ribs, potatoes, salami / sausages, seasonal vegetables
  • Virtinukai UKRAINE potato dumplings/noodles
  • Voveraite LITHUANIA chanterelle sautéed with onions and potatoes
  • Wirsing Untereinander GERMANY savoy cabbage with bacon and onion / potatoes
  • Zapekané Zemiaky s Bryndzou a Pažítkou SLOVAKIA baked potato with cheese, chives
  • Zemiakový Koláč SLOVAKIA cheese and potato pie
  • Zemiakové Placky SLOVAKIA potato pancakes

These are edited draft versions of some the sections that will appear in the finished book.

Switzerland (Geneva) & France (Bonneville)
Switzerland (Pre-Alps)
Switzerland (Alps)
Italy (Piedmont)
Switzerland (Rhône Valley)
France & Italy (Mont Blanc | Monte Bianco)