The butchers’ guild of St. Gallen in 1438 noted that the country bratwürst was made with veal, belly pork, spices and fresh milk, and had a distinctive white colour.
Today the St. Galler bratwürst is a white unsmoked sausage made with veal, pork, spices and milk.
Why change a good thing?
This unique sausage is produced in the cantons of Appenzell, St. Gallen and Thurgau with meat and milk from Switzerland and Liechtenstein.
Throughout its history it has been made with and without veal, an unthinkable thought to those who cherish a bratwürst that is now an integral aspect of Swiss festival culture.
2013 was the 70th anniversary of the St. Galler bratwürst at the Olma agricultural fair. More than half a million bratwürst went on the grill. Many were eaten on their own, some with the brown rolls called bürli and not a spoonful of mustard in sight.
They are difficult to make in the home because the technique requires equipment that will produce a fine emulsion of the meat, milk and spices. But not impossible.
370 g veal, minced 260 g bacon, minced 150 ml milk 100 g pork, minced 25 g pork belly rind, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 onion, chopped 15 g salt 1 tsp coriander, ground 1 tsp ginger, ground 1 tsp lemon zest 1 tsp nutmeg, ground 1 tsp white pepper, ground Mace, large pinch Pork casings Ice, crushed
Blend the celery, onions and rinds in milk until smooth, add minced meat and blend again. Adjust liquid content with some ice, add seasonings and blend again. This should produce a thick smooth paste.
Pack into casings, 25 mm long, and place in a large pot of boiling water. Cook for 30 minutes. The desired internal temperature of the bratwürst should be 72°C.
Prepare a pot of ice cold water. Plunge bratwürst into water to cool down. Hang until dry.
The St. Galler bratwürst should contain 37% veal, 26% bacon, 10% pork and 27% bulk, of which 25% must be milk, wet or dry. Mace and pepper are mandatory, but other spices can include a combination of cardamom, celery, coriander, ginger, leek, lemon, nutmeg and onion.
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